b16a swap questions
Hello, I am puttint a b16a into my 91 CRX si using Place Racing mounts. What did everyone do about the aftermarket (DC Sport) header clearing the crossmember. Did most of you alter the crossmember? Second, what clutch cable did you use. I have been told to use the stock CRX cable but it won't reach. Finally, what did you do about the charcoal canister connection. The b16a throttle body does not have a connection for it like the stock si one did? thanks in advance.
A 4-2-1 should be fine, a 4-1 you will have to cut a chunk out of your x-member. I used a factory clutch cable, and cut some of the rubber off the bottom, keeping the same shape. My throttle body had the charcol canister connection. Ryan
no not really mine didn't clear at when i had a 4-2-1 header on mine when i had a crx si w/ b16a. i had to cut a chunk out o the cross-member like half an inch in and about 3 inchs long. i use hcp mounts. i say try to put the top half of the header on and slide under and put the down pipe to the top half and see if you need to cut is what i would do. good luck it shouldn't be to hard to do.
oh i use a 90-93 integra clutch cable and you need to replace your map and those round things that have the rubber caps on them what are they called anyone know i forgot!!! from an 90-93 integra there on the firewall in the middle. make use you get it all the two things and the map. email me i'll sell you one i got spare. mofothug@***.net
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Da Integra »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no not really mine didn't clear at when i had a 4-2-1 header on mine when i had a crx si w/ b16a. i had to cut a chunk out o the cross-member like half an inch in and about 3 inchs long. i use hcp mounts. i say try to put the top half of the header on and slide under and put the down pipe to the top half and see if you need to cut is what i would do. good luck it shouldn't be to hard to do.</TD></TR></TABLE>
mine didnt clear either, my x-member is notched.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i use a 90-93 integra clutch cable </TD></TR></TABLE>
ditto
mine didnt clear either, my x-member is notched.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i use a 90-93 integra clutch cable </TD></TR></TABLE>
ditto
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by incubus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
mine didnt clear either, my x-member is notched.
ditto</TD></TR></TABLE>I used a 92-95 civic throttle cable and it worked perfect.
Also, as far as the charcoal cannister connection goes, there is a connection like it on the IM on the b16. You're talking about the braided line that comes off of the charcoal cannister that goes to the IM. Buy a clamp thats a little smaller than the existing one off of that line, it won't slide off.
Lastly, about the DC Sports header. like everyone is saying, the 4-1 requires cutting, which equals weakening of the structural integrity of the crossmember, which I wouldn't evem consider. I would go with the 4-2-1. it's tight, but it fits with no mods. If you're in the market later on for an aftermarket crossmember, go with the Jimfab radius arms; the 4-1 header clears it without needing to cut it, plus you'd be eliminating wheelhop at the same time, so that would be the direction I would go if you're talking about the 4-1 header, but that's just me.
mine didnt clear either, my x-member is notched.
ditto</TD></TR></TABLE>I used a 92-95 civic throttle cable and it worked perfect.
Also, as far as the charcoal cannister connection goes, there is a connection like it on the IM on the b16. You're talking about the braided line that comes off of the charcoal cannister that goes to the IM. Buy a clamp thats a little smaller than the existing one off of that line, it won't slide off.
Lastly, about the DC Sports header. like everyone is saying, the 4-1 requires cutting, which equals weakening of the structural integrity of the crossmember, which I wouldn't evem consider. I would go with the 4-2-1. it's tight, but it fits with no mods. If you're in the market later on for an aftermarket crossmember, go with the Jimfab radius arms; the 4-1 header clears it without needing to cut it, plus you'd be eliminating wheelhop at the same time, so that would be the direction I would go if you're talking about the 4-1 header, but that's just me.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid Invasion »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I used a 92-95 civic throttle cable and it worked perfect.
Also, as far as the charcoal cannister connection goes, there is a connection like it on the IM on the b16. You're talking about the braided line that comes off of the charcoal cannister that goes to the IM. Buy a clamp thats a little smaller than the existing one off of that line, it won't slide off.
Lastly, about the DC Sports header. like everyone is saying, the 4-1 requires cutting, which equals weakening of the structural integrity of the crossmember, which I wouldn't evem consider. I would go with the 4-2-1. it's tight, but it fits with no mods. If you're in the market later on for an aftermarket crossmember, go with the Jimfab radius arms; the 4-1 header clears it without needing to cut it, plus you'd be eliminating wheelhop at the same time, so that would be the direction I would go if you're talking about the 4-1 header, but that's just me.</TD></TR></TABLE>
for you... good response!
Also, as far as the charcoal cannister connection goes, there is a connection like it on the IM on the b16. You're talking about the braided line that comes off of the charcoal cannister that goes to the IM. Buy a clamp thats a little smaller than the existing one off of that line, it won't slide off.
Lastly, about the DC Sports header. like everyone is saying, the 4-1 requires cutting, which equals weakening of the structural integrity of the crossmember, which I wouldn't evem consider. I would go with the 4-2-1. it's tight, but it fits with no mods. If you're in the market later on for an aftermarket crossmember, go with the Jimfab radius arms; the 4-1 header clears it without needing to cut it, plus you'd be eliminating wheelhop at the same time, so that would be the direction I would go if you're talking about the 4-1 header, but that's just me.</TD></TR></TABLE>
for you... good response!
the 4-2-1 DC would not clear either. That is what I have. I think because the Place Racing mounts move the engine forward is why there is no clearance. Anyhow, we trimmed the front crossmember and everything is nice. Structural integrity really is not an issue. As for the clutch cable, I did what the first response said he did and it seems to work good. The throttle body charcoal cannister issue was solved by installing a 90 integra throttle body as the TPS was smashed anyway. I just needed to do more homework in my vaccum line routing. Thanks for the help.
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speedjunkeez
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Aug 15, 2001 10:18 PM




