throttle position sensor question
i posted this before but need more feedback 'cause i've been trying to find out what the problem is and i can't figure it out. car revs 1-2k continously in park or neutral.. when it is warmed up. no codes. checked the sensor (its on the back side of the throttle body for the eg ex coupes right) and it seems fine.. hoses look fine.. have no idea what the hell it could be..anyone had a similar problem and actually fixed it? tia
check your AIC (idle air control).....there is a valve and a "screw" this screw is locted on the inlet side of the Throttle body.....it is basically a screw with a SLIT in it for adjustment....try adjusting while at idle, and it should return to normal idle
if it only happens when the sensor is warmed up, it makes me think that the sensor might be wearing out and the heat is causing added resistance against the voltage that your computer uses to know how open your throttle is.
it's hard to explain without pictures, but you might need a new sensor.
it's hard to explain without pictures, but you might need a new sensor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chainsaw »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if it only happens when the sensor is warmed up, it makes me think that the sensor might be wearing out and the heat is causing added resistance against the voltage that your computer uses to know how open your throttle is.
it's hard to explain without pictures, but you might need a new sensor. </TD></TR></TABLE>
should i just pick one up from a junkyard or.. wheres the best buy? how much they run for?
it's hard to explain without pictures, but you might need a new sensor. </TD></TR></TABLE>
should i just pick one up from a junkyard or.. wheres the best buy? how much they run for?
just FYI, all B and D series Honda TPS are the same....you can pop one off any H motor in the junkyards....just cut a slit in the screw heads, and unscrew
i'm not sure how much they are. i would imagine they're pretty pricey.
i would just check the local junkyards or look for someone who just did a swap and has one from thier old engine.
i would just check the local junkyards or look for someone who just did a swap and has one from thier old engine.
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Get a voltometer and measure the voltage that the TPS is showing. IT should read .5 volts at idle. THere is a thread on here with which lead to measure.
When you adjust the idle screw you should unplug your IACV(idle air control valve) it is a black thing on the backside of your intake manifold, there is aplug underneath it, on manuals it's 2 wire on the IM on autos it's on the bottom of the TB and its 3 wire. Unplug then adjust, the plug back in, you need more info im me...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prendi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i posted this before but need more feedback 'cause i've been trying to find out what the problem is and i can't figure it out. car revs 1-2k continously in park or neutral.. when it is warmed up. no codes. checked the sensor (its on the back side of the throttle body for the eg ex coupes right) and it seems fine.. hoses look fine.. have no idea what the hell it could be..anyone had a similar problem and actually fixed it? tia</TD></TR></TABLE>
better check your throttle cable. cable wire tend to bind up and won't slide smoothly in the cable sheath. that's what caused my car to idle from 2000-3000 rpm. if it's binding our sticky it will cause your throttlebody to not close properly. you can't get the throttle cable for about $10-20 bucks at the local honda junkyard.
also your TPS is factory set so you can't adjust it.
better check your throttle cable. cable wire tend to bind up and won't slide smoothly in the cable sheath. that's what caused my car to idle from 2000-3000 rpm. if it's binding our sticky it will cause your throttlebody to not close properly. you can't get the throttle cable for about $10-20 bucks at the local honda junkyard.
also your TPS is factory set so you can't adjust it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RSZero1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you adjust the idle screw you should unplug your IACV(idle air control valve) it is a black thing on the backside of your intake manifold, there is aplug underneath it, on manuals it's 2 wire on the IM on autos it's on the bottom of the TB and its 3 wire. Unplug then adjust, the plug back in, you need more info im me...</TD></TR></TABLE>
That is the proper way to adjust it. Dont just adjust it without following the above post.
That is the proper way to adjust it. Dont just adjust it without following the above post.
i got the same problem but my fluctuations are around 5-800rpm and most of the time the engine dies. i start it up and then its fine again. can someone please show me EXACTLY where the IACV is at and where this TPS screw is at so i can try to fix my problem. thanks i have a 00 hatch cx
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Xsi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had a similar fluctuating idle problem which has gone since I replaced the thermostat and bled the coolant properly, maybe try that</TD></TR></TABLE>
Something most peeps dont think of...theres a sensor in the head and if your low on fluid or have an air pocket the sensor may not get a good reading.
BTW to get rid of most air pockets jack up the front end. Try to get the rad as high or higher than the sensor in the head. Just keep topping it off till its full.
Yeah it happened to me....
Something most peeps dont think of...theres a sensor in the head and if your low on fluid or have an air pocket the sensor may not get a good reading.
BTW to get rid of most air pockets jack up the front end. Try to get the rad as high or higher than the sensor in the head. Just keep topping it off till its full.
Yeah it happened to me....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Quote, originally posted by RSZero1 »
When you adjust the idle screw you should unplug your IACV(idle air control valve) it is a black thing on the backside of your intake manifold, there is aplug underneath it, on manuals it's 2 wire on the IM on autos it's on the bottom of the TB and its 3 wire. Unplug then adjust, the plug back in, you need more info im me... </TD></TR></TABLE>
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Panda EK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That is the proper way to adjust it. Dont just adjust it without following the above post.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I believe in addition to that you are supposed to reset the ecu to "save" the setting.
Quote, originally posted by RSZero1 »
When you adjust the idle screw you should unplug your IACV(idle air control valve) it is a black thing on the backside of your intake manifold, there is aplug underneath it, on manuals it's 2 wire on the IM on autos it's on the bottom of the TB and its 3 wire. Unplug then adjust, the plug back in, you need more info im me... </TD></TR></TABLE>
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Panda EK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That is the proper way to adjust it. Dont just adjust it without following the above post.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I believe in addition to that you are supposed to reset the ecu to "save" the setting.
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but thanks for everything and all the info
