Anyone try the ATF trick to clean engine pistons & cylinders?
Right. Topic says it. Have anyone tried it?
That's because another F22B1 shortblock is going back under the hood, it looks pretty clean on the outside, but I'd want to make sure the internals are as clean as possible. Is it too risky? Also, what is the exact proceedure?
I will keep my old intake manifold, and it is not impossible the injectors were not working 100%. Which product is better for cleaning them, if any?
That's because another F22B1 shortblock is going back under the hood, it looks pretty clean on the outside, but I'd want to make sure the internals are as clean as possible. Is it too risky? Also, what is the exact proceedure?
I will keep my old intake manifold, and it is not impossible the injectors were not working 100%. Which product is better for cleaning them, if any?
I tried it on my old 90 EX on accident (the wrong label went on the cans we keep the oil/ATF in) . It really cleaned the cylinders out, but killed the bearings shortly after. Then BOOM. I don't recommend it.
On rotaries, you inject ATF straight into the rotor housing via the sparkplug holes. I would think you could do the samething on a piston engine. I would use a plastic syringe or something like that and a very minor amount. Be warned that you WILL smoke like crazy for awhile (few minutes white smoke) and the neighbors will think something is on fire. I'd do this at night.
ATF acts like a detergent on carbon deposits. Marvel Mystery oil has something like ATF blended in which is why marvel seems so mysteriously interesting...lol
My experience w/ a turbo 13b Rx7 engine showed what appeared to be higher boost pressure & faster buildup to peak hp/torque after doing a minor ATF treatment. It's detergent action acts on carbon buildup on rotor corner springs that, w/ deposits, lose their "springyness" and consequently compression. Basically I (partially?) restored factory compression.
No dyno to quantitatively proven anything but the butt & neck dyno said "something changed" and it wasn't just extra engine noise. I'd do a query on Google to find someone's experience w/ a piston engine...
EDIT: Another good de-carbonizer is "Castrol Super Clean" on disassembled engine pieces. I picked that one up learning about a engine rebuilding trick. Buy it at Target or wherever, dissolve or use straight up (look at the directions) and dump your pieces in. No scrubbing or sanding needed apparently. Carbon just melts away after awhile w/o reacting with or damaging any surfaces
Modified by RotaryBzzz at 12:59 PM 4/25/2003
ATF acts like a detergent on carbon deposits. Marvel Mystery oil has something like ATF blended in which is why marvel seems so mysteriously interesting...lol
My experience w/ a turbo 13b Rx7 engine showed what appeared to be higher boost pressure & faster buildup to peak hp/torque after doing a minor ATF treatment. It's detergent action acts on carbon buildup on rotor corner springs that, w/ deposits, lose their "springyness" and consequently compression. Basically I (partially?) restored factory compression.
No dyno to quantitatively proven anything but the butt & neck dyno said "something changed" and it wasn't just extra engine noise. I'd do a query on Google to find someone's experience w/ a piston engine...
EDIT: Another good de-carbonizer is "Castrol Super Clean" on disassembled engine pieces. I picked that one up learning about a engine rebuilding trick. Buy it at Target or wherever, dissolve or use straight up (look at the directions) and dump your pieces in. No scrubbing or sanding needed apparently. Carbon just melts away after awhile w/o reacting with or damaging any surfaces
Modified by RotaryBzzz at 12:59 PM 4/25/2003
I want to clean the tops of my pistons while the head is off. Will that Castrol Super Clean clean that off ?? I don't want anything that could leak down through the rings or strip the oil off of the cylinder walls. I just want to get the carbon off the tops of the pistons...
I did it in my moms 4.5L Inline 6 engine (toyota) and it worked great.
Things i've learned:
-YOU WILL SMOKE A LOT!! (YES, more than what you think)
-You only need a small amount like maybe 100 ML on each piston (i used 2 liters on that engine and as i learned it was WAYYYYYY too much) you just need an amount enough to cover the rings, and that's it.
-Crank the engine with the spark plugs out to be sure there is not much left.
-Put spark plugs back on and spin the crank a while and make sure to leave the pistons on compression a lil longer so that the extra oil can go away.
-Turn the engine on and let it warm up for like 3 min, give it a few blips on the throtle and then shut it off, then proceed to do an oil change (so it doesn't happened the same thing that happened to brandon)
-After changing oil (and filter DUH!) let it warm up till it gets to normal temp, then go and drive the **** out of it, try to do it progressively.
After the car stoped smoking let it cool down.
Check the oil and ry to see if the viscosity changed much. keep an eye on it for like a week, if you notice a weird viscosity do another oil change.
You're done
Things i've learned:
-YOU WILL SMOKE A LOT!! (YES, more than what you think)
-You only need a small amount like maybe 100 ML on each piston (i used 2 liters on that engine and as i learned it was WAYYYYYY too much) you just need an amount enough to cover the rings, and that's it.
-Crank the engine with the spark plugs out to be sure there is not much left.
-Put spark plugs back on and spin the crank a while and make sure to leave the pistons on compression a lil longer so that the extra oil can go away.
-Turn the engine on and let it warm up for like 3 min, give it a few blips on the throtle and then shut it off, then proceed to do an oil change (so it doesn't happened the same thing that happened to brandon)
-After changing oil (and filter DUH!) let it warm up till it gets to normal temp, then go and drive the **** out of it, try to do it progressively.
After the car stoped smoking let it cool down.
Check the oil and ry to see if the viscosity changed much. keep an eye on it for like a week, if you notice a weird viscosity do another oil change.
You're done
This may sound crazy but Grandpa told me a little trick to clean out a car thats smoking etc. Drain the oil and put in #3 Diesel and run the engine for a little while. Then drain it out and refill with new oil and filter etc. Does wonders to an old car. He has done on several cars and claims that it gets great results. I know it sounds cooky, but has anyone else ever heard of this?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stew Pidasso »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I want to clean the tops of my pistons while the head is off. Will that Castrol Super Clean clean that off ?? I don't want anything that could leak down through the rings or strip the oil off of the cylinder walls. I just want to get the carbon off the tops of the pistons...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, but it would take a couple hours from what I understand to breakdown major carbon.
Also, I don't know what CSS base's is (probably something methyl-ated - don't remember what was on the label) but it -will- take the oil off if any leaks down. CSS is used also as a concrete degreaser it's so tough. Personally, I think it would be a little too dangerous to try and apply it to something still in the car but if you were super careful..... Thing is, it leaves a residue layer that is 'suppose' to be removed by flushing with water though you could probably dab it off with wet clean rags. You might experiment first with something all carbon'ed-up nasty like some random piston to see how quickly it reacts to strip the carbon off.
It's cheap. I picked up a spray bottle for like $2.49 at Target. They come in humongo bucket sizes too.
New link: Castrol Super Clean in Rotary engine rebuild (though not used like how I described) - Unfortunately, I found very limited info using CSS as a decarbonizer even with my mad google search skills. Use control F & type "castrol" to find the reference
http://pbgarrott.tripod.com/rebuild3.html
Modified by RotaryBzzz at 5:27 PM 4/25/2003
Yes, but it would take a couple hours from what I understand to breakdown major carbon.
Also, I don't know what CSS base's is (probably something methyl-ated - don't remember what was on the label) but it -will- take the oil off if any leaks down. CSS is used also as a concrete degreaser it's so tough. Personally, I think it would be a little too dangerous to try and apply it to something still in the car but if you were super careful..... Thing is, it leaves a residue layer that is 'suppose' to be removed by flushing with water though you could probably dab it off with wet clean rags. You might experiment first with something all carbon'ed-up nasty like some random piston to see how quickly it reacts to strip the carbon off.
It's cheap. I picked up a spray bottle for like $2.49 at Target. They come in humongo bucket sizes too.
New link: Castrol Super Clean in Rotary engine rebuild (though not used like how I described) - Unfortunately, I found very limited info using CSS as a decarbonizer even with my mad google search skills. Use control F & type "castrol" to find the reference
http://pbgarrott.tripod.com/rebuild3.html
Modified by RotaryBzzz at 5:27 PM 4/25/2003
Automatic Transmition Fluid.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92SiB18C1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What's ATF and where can I get it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92SiB18C1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What's ATF and where can I get it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah I put inonce in my old 90 accord it worked okay for the most parts nothing major occured. A teacher told me about it in school.
One thing I don't really recommend is putting it in higher mileage vehicles as it will break down carbon etc. which has formed to the inside of the block. May cause some problems ATF is a monster detergent as way back mechanics used it to clean hands after getting hands very dirty.
There are machines shops offer that do the same granted the price is more about 100 for a either a fuel system/engine/transmission cleaning. They hook up a machine to ports and run a high concentrtion mixture at around 40psi or so thru the entire system and cleans it out throughly and it will not harm the engine if it did they would sell it and hey you can blame them.
One thing I don't really recommend is putting it in higher mileage vehicles as it will break down carbon etc. which has formed to the inside of the block. May cause some problems ATF is a monster detergent as way back mechanics used it to clean hands after getting hands very dirty.
There are machines shops offer that do the same granted the price is more about 100 for a either a fuel system/engine/transmission cleaning. They hook up a machine to ports and run a high concentrtion mixture at around 40psi or so thru the entire system and cleans it out throughly and it will not harm the engine if it did they would sell it and hey you can blame them.
can you use it to clean the engine w/o taking apart the engine? can you put a bit into the oil, run the car for a few mins, and then drail and refill the oil say twice? (since there is more oil in the car than what is drained out.
Yep just add in to engine. I did basically 1qt ATF and the rest oil 3qts or whatever it was ran the car for about 1k miles or so then drained and added new oil
It does no harm running with atf mixed with oil in the engine. Running the car with the oil and atf in the engine for X amount of miles circulates it more thoroughly than just running it for 5mins. The oil/atf will warm up when running the car more and circulate cleaning all engine comps. I would at least at the very most run the car for 1 week with the atf since you should replace filter at the same time best time is just before a oil change. Say you have about 1k-500miles before oil change. 1-Wait for oil change add in atf with oil then at next oil change you should see good results. 2.If you near changing oil and dipstick looks a little low add in atf to bring it up 1/2qt etc. thats it. 3.Near oil change drain some oil if possible add in atf then do oil change later on. You basically add the atf to the crankcase where you reg. put the oil.
It does no harm running with atf mixed with oil in the engine. Running the car with the oil and atf in the engine for X amount of miles circulates it more thoroughly than just running it for 5mins. The oil/atf will warm up when running the car more and circulate cleaning all engine comps. I would at least at the very most run the car for 1 week with the atf since you should replace filter at the same time best time is just before a oil change. Say you have about 1k-500miles before oil change. 1-Wait for oil change add in atf with oil then at next oil change you should see good results. 2.If you near changing oil and dipstick looks a little low add in atf to bring it up 1/2qt etc. thats it. 3.Near oil change drain some oil if possible add in atf then do oil change later on. You basically add the atf to the crankcase where you reg. put the oil.
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