How long does it take to let piston rings set
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I am sick of hearing **** if you know what I mean, what do you recommend me doing, I just got my engine fully balanced and blueprinted, and now I have ls pistons and an 11:5:1 compression....thanks yo
I think after I rebuild my a6 I'm going to barely break it in since some people think it's a myth...I'll find out how it fares.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dj_sandoz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm </TD></TR></TABLE>
i believe that man is a retard. He says that the small amout of pressure exerted on the cylinder walls couldn't possibly hold all that force of combustion. The two forces are completely perpendicular so they don't even act on each other. So there could be 1 billionth of a pound of pressure exerted on the walls and it would still properly seal. sure the rings are there for other purposes too, but he seems retarded to me.
i believe that man is a retard. He says that the small amout of pressure exerted on the cylinder walls couldn't possibly hold all that force of combustion. The two forces are completely perpendicular so they don't even act on each other. So there could be 1 billionth of a pound of pressure exerted on the walls and it would still properly seal. sure the rings are there for other purposes too, but he seems retarded to me.
I ride motocross, in my 125 I put the new top end, piston, ring, wrist pin, and break it in for 15 min. Then I hit around 11,500 rpm. This is a 2 stroke, with ports, not valves. If my .125l motor can handle those kinda rpms, im sure your car will be fine. However, I would suggest running it for a hundred miles to make sure everything is running fine.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dj_sandoz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm </TD></TR></TABLE>
i'd be hesitant to do that immediately after installation on a car.
i'd be hesitant to do that immediately after installation on a car.
I'm impatient.... I stayed below 4000 rpm for about 200 mi, 5000 rpm until 500 mi, then started thrashing it!!! I just hit 2000 mi today and it seems to be doing well.
best advice: follow the recommendations of the company that are supplying the parts, they're the ones that have to stand behind them when they fail.
also think of this, most professional racers start running their engines hard right away. Have you ever seen John Force baby his funny car around the streets for 1000 mi before tearing down the track at 300 mph?
That may not be an apples to apples comparison....
best advice: follow the recommendations of the company that are supplying the parts, they're the ones that have to stand behind them when they fail.
also think of this, most professional racers start running their engines hard right away. Have you ever seen John Force baby his funny car around the streets for 1000 mi before tearing down the track at 300 mph?
That may not be an apples to apples comparison....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thumpu77 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That may not be an apples to apples comparison....</TD></TR></TABLE>
and that, would be correct.
and that, would be correct.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cruicked »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">everything is set once you fire up the engine. Break in, Shmake in.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ur first post, Lol, i think I will break it in junior
I am going to do about 300 miles of driving , then gradually kick into it once in a good while, I'lll post up and let everyone know how it goes. Thanks
Ur first post, Lol, i think I will break it in junior
I am going to do about 300 miles of driving , then gradually kick into it once in a good while, I'lll post up and let everyone know how it goes. Thanks
I run a new motor for about 30mins, then drive it around the block. Change the oil, then beat on it. A blueprinted and balanced engine does not need any special break in.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Steve91 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I run a new motor for about 30mins, then drive it around the block. Change the oil, then beat on it. A blueprinted and balanced engine does not need any special break in.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok - piston ring seat in a very short time. This probably happens in less than 100 miles.
That's not what a complete 1500 mile break in is all about though. You also need to let the rings and cylinder walls works themselves in for long term effects. After the rings seat properly they wear and grind down to fit the individual cylinder walls so you minimize blow by and crap like that. a properly broken in engine WILL have a little more power than the same engine that is not broken in right.
If you take a motor out and run for 100 miles and then start abusing it, you will probably see the effects of high speed glazing. This is where some oil passes by the ring and burns to the cylinder walls. this burnt up oil becomes much too slick for the rings to work properly and you will essentially be burning oil for the rest of the life of the engine. The rings won't do their job.
If you don't vary the speeds and you keep the rpm at too low of a level then you won't wear in the rings enough. The rings will never see the proper ammount of compression required to wear them in and mate them to the cylinder walls. This can lead to bad rings and blow by = less power.
So - they say to vary your engine rpm. This is because you will doubtfully have the perfect rpm at any time. So varying the rpm will see low rpm and higher rpm (I don't mean 10k rpm... that's WAY to high for proper wear) and you get the best of both worlds.
Ok - piston ring seat in a very short time. This probably happens in less than 100 miles.
That's not what a complete 1500 mile break in is all about though. You also need to let the rings and cylinder walls works themselves in for long term effects. After the rings seat properly they wear and grind down to fit the individual cylinder walls so you minimize blow by and crap like that. a properly broken in engine WILL have a little more power than the same engine that is not broken in right.
If you take a motor out and run for 100 miles and then start abusing it, you will probably see the effects of high speed glazing. This is where some oil passes by the ring and burns to the cylinder walls. this burnt up oil becomes much too slick for the rings to work properly and you will essentially be burning oil for the rest of the life of the engine. The rings won't do their job.
If you don't vary the speeds and you keep the rpm at too low of a level then you won't wear in the rings enough. The rings will never see the proper ammount of compression required to wear them in and mate them to the cylinder walls. This can lead to bad rings and blow by = less power.
So - they say to vary your engine rpm. This is because you will doubtfully have the perfect rpm at any time. So varying the rpm will see low rpm and higher rpm (I don't mean 10k rpm... that's WAY to high for proper wear) and you get the best of both worlds.
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thankx a lot for all these responses, u all are very helpful 
