Ok, I have posted before about "my CV joint clicking", I have also been told by numerous people that they are indeed my CV joints.

Now I am finally getting time to set a day aside and replace them, so I broke out the Haynes (I know, I know. I don't have a helms (couldn't find one at the store)) and tryed to look up CV joint replacement. In the manual it explains how to replace the Drive Axels, but this looks alot like what I need to do.

My question to you all today is... Is the CV joint the same thing as a drive axel? Do I just follow the directions in the Haynes to replace the Drive Axels?

Also, one other question. I have both heard and read that the "hub nut"(I think that's what it is called) is a bitch to break loose. In my manual it says to use a breaker bar. That's not a problem. But, I was wondering, when re-installing of the the new parts, does exact torque rating on that bolt matter? Or do I just tighten it back up the best I can? If it is a huge issue, would anyone be as so kind to let me know what that actual torque measurement is?

Thanks for taking the time to read this lengthy post, and thanks ahead of time for any information/help.

-Nick

 

as far as i know the drive axle is the same thing as the cv joint

most peple refer to a cv joint as the drive axle when it is only the ends of the drive axle that are cv joints

but you do replace them both at the same time
when you go to the parts store to get your cv joint it will come with the drive axle or visa versa in 90% of the cases now you can get kits for fixin a cv boot but thats not the same

also the hub nut is a 36mm nut that you need to "unlock" befor you can get it off it is recommended to use a wedge and just hammer the dimple out so that nut can turn freely and once you get that dimple out you should try to get a air gun to get the nut loose it can be a bit@# to get loos otherwise a breaker bar would work is you can lock your tranny or have someone hold the brake on for you unless its a auto then i think the tranny will lock out...

good luck and try not to break anything it can get frustrating if you do

been there done that bought new fenders because of it

sorry to get confusing on ya but i dont know how to put it any easier

hope this help

 

The CV joint or Constant Velocity joint are the two universal joints at either end of the driveshaft. Most people do call the whole drive shaft or halfshaft a CV joint though. just replace the whole halfshaft if you're going to do it. It's just easier.

Did I just reiterate what he /\/\ said?

 

haha. Thanks for all of the very helpful advice, you guys. I think I will have time for it tomorrow or Saturday (if weather permits).

With the right tools, the manual and assuming nothing goes wrong... oh and a couple of beers, how long of a jod am I looking at, here?

And, I also see that these connect to the transmission (Duh!). Am I in risk of damaging anything in the tranny when doing this job?

Thanks again!

 

I actually got my Axle Nut off Pretty easily. Just do it while the car is on the ground it's much easier.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Canonm7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I actually got my Axle Nut off Pretty easily. Just do it while the car is on the ground it's much easier. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Definitely do that /\/\ . You won't damage anything in the tranny. Just pry them out with a long screwdriver or pry bar. Try not to damage the seals where the half-shaft goes in though. The axles just pop back in place. The passenger side gave me a bit of trouble and a few other people have said the same. It may be a little harder but keep working and it will pop in also.

 

Ok, this may sound very retarded, but how do you go about doing that? Getting the Axel Bolt off while the car is still on the ground? Isn't it located on the hub, in which case to get to it you have to take the tire off, which in turn means you have to jack the car?

Again, I might be wrong about this and most likely am, so could someone shed a little more light on that?

I really appreciate it!

 

i had to first, remove the wheel, then pop the center cap out, put the wheel back on without the center cap, then break the hub nut, then remove the wheel. haha.

also, my driver's side was a biitch to remove. actually, i never got the inner cv joint separated from the intermediate shaft. i ended up fukcing up the bearings in the intermediate shaft and had to replace both the half shaft (cv drive axle) and the intermediate shaft ($50 from PartsAdventure.com). bastard had welded themselves together and that little c-clip thingy must've broken off inside the intermediate shaft.

so don't go beating on them with a sledge hammer or something. if the driver's side doesn't pop out with a good ball's out pull, then just rebuild the new cv half shaft into the existing inner cv boot housing. you could probably pop the intermediate shaft out from the transmission to give yourself more room to work with.

oh yeah, get you some transmission fluid from Honda, also. The manual fluid runs about $4.50 - $6 a quart, and you'll need 4.2 quarts, I beleive.

 

4.2? isnt that motor oil amount? its like 2 quarts to refill, and 3 for a full rebuild of the tranny i think. I dont know how much is lost when replacing the axles, but might as well flush the entire system.

 

If you're having problems differentiating between a drive axle and a CV shaft, I'm not sure if you should attempt this job... and this is just out of concern. That 36 mm bolt is a bitch to break loose also. I don't suggest this job unless you have air tools, breaker bars, and also a ball joint seperator. I'd also suggest new clips for the castle nuts and maybe even new ball joint seals.

If you're breaking the 36mm bolts with a breaker bar, good luck and be careful!