whats better? i wanna hear some inputs about this.. no need for some flames..i just wanna hear people's opinion and knowledge about it.

 

how can i not flame on a topice such as this..... freaken do search there is a 3page disccusion in the EG/EK form about it.
both motors being stock i'd go for the D16 with any turbo kit.

 

The SOHC VTEC turbo will absolutely destroy the B16 in an equivalent car.

 

is the 98 sohc vtec a d16y8? if so..if i boost it, how much tq and hp will i get? will i smoke the b16a with no problem?

 

92-95 = d16z6
96-00 = d16y8

How much boost are you planning on running?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cr-tegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
How much boost are you planning on running? </TD></TR></TABLE>

ya were not psycic, on smaller intercooled turbo setups you can get approximately 10whp per 1 psi. thats not always true, as it all depends on your setup, too many variables to just tell you.

 

Im curious about this too. How much added HP will say a Greddy kit running like 8lbs of boost on a stock D16z6. Will it hit 140-150 to the wheels?

 

sonny just go turbo bro.........
you should hit over 150 hp with 8 psi with the greedy or hks kit.... more like 170 or better

 

i dont know about you guys but I dont have much a problem with taking b16's with the d series...i mean realistically...the only thing that have on you is the high end and even in mached cars it was close but not close enough to need to boost to high to take them...maybe its just me... but Id love a nice turbo on my d16z6...

 

It's all in the driver. bottom line. either one could win, too many factors. whatever you build, just make it faster.

 

I have no problem taking b16 crxs. I have a d16y8 with a junkyard turbo/zdyne and I sent my friend packing in his 88 hf with a 1st gen b16.
I will totally agree however with it coming down to the driver....I've taken and have been taken by b16 powered hatches/crxs before if I wasn't prepared.

~Alex

 

Build one of these

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DX_Tuner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Build one of these
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

IMO in the same car setup. the SOHC Turbo will eat the B16 with I/H/E..... its also a lot more fun to drive ......

 

alright. i got the car yesterday..got a 90 std with the y8 in it.. it came with DC headers 4-2-1. it has a different clutch also..like a street race clutch..i dont know what it is in there.. but i cant decide whether to keep the b16a or the d16y8.

i havent had the b16a for a long time and im not done having fun with it, but my future plan is boosting a y8 because i got convinced to. im planning to boost around 6-8psi.

i have this problem on the y8. when my car is started..and if i turn it off, and try to turn it back on ..it doesnt start...it'll just crank and crank for a long time. if i give it gas, it doesnt do anything. i have to wait like a little while..around 5-10 mins for it to start again. sometimes if im lucky, it'll start quick. i have a check engine light, code 10 which is air temp sensor..its not plugged..where is it at? it has a 96 ex manifold..dont know where the sensor is at. where would i plug the charcoal canister to? the manifold doesnt have any plugs for it.
thanks guys.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4g_civic_si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i have this problem on the y8. when my car is started..and if i turn it off, and try to turn it back on ..it doesnt start...it'll just crank and crank for a long time. if i give it gas, it doesnt do anything. i have to wait like a little while..around 5-10 mins for it to start again. sometimes if im lucky, it'll start quick. i have a check engine light, code 10 which is air temp sensor..its not plugged..where is it at? it has a 96 ex manifold..dont know where the sensor is at. where would i plug the charcoal canister to? the manifold doesnt have any plugs for it.
thanks guys.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i have that exact same problem on my d15b2
i want to know what's wrong

 

D16Y8/Z6 would kill a B16A with bolt-ons.

 

I bought my civic with a B18B in it. If I would have done some resherch, I would have stayed with a d series engine and turbocharged it. Sure the B-series engines have more torque and power but if you look at all the work/money of swapping in a b-series engine, a turbo and ECU for the D aren't a bad price. What you lack in torque (for the D series) the turbo will make up for, and it will add the top end you need. THen if you start customizing your turbo (trim and A/R ratio) you can pick the kind of power you want the engine to lay down. I am all about big turbos with nitrous to spool them off the line. That just makes nasty little monsters

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shorti &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i have that exact same problem on my d15b2
i want to know what's wrong </TD></TR></TABLE>


yes im desperate in knowing..its really annoying. sometimes i would be stuck at a parking lot cranking this stupid **** and its pretty embarassing.

because its a 90 std, are there any wiring conversion ill need to do? when i checked on the ecu plugs, someone did a mickey mouse job on it. it has a lot of electrical tape on it. do the si and std have the same ecu plug wiring?

so im throwing code 10 (air temp sensor)..anybody know where i can get that plug in? i know its on the intake manifold, but for some reason i cant find it. and the charcoal canister red tube, where does it go? theres no plug on the throttle body for it.

 

Boost makes apples to apples comparisons an impossibility... there are just too many factors.

 

For the Y8 (I assume it's running a P28 ECU) the intake air temp sensor should be in the intake piping itself, about 6"-12" before the throttlebody.

 

[QUOTE=

i have this problem on the y8. when my car is started..and if i turn it off, and try to turn it back on ..it doesnt start...it'll just crank and crank for a long time. if i give it gas, it doesnt do anything. i have to wait like a little while..around 5-10 mins for it to start again. sometimes if im lucky, it'll start quick. i have a check engine light, code 10 which is air temp sensor..its not plugged..where is it at? it has a 96 ex manifold..dont know where the sensor is at. where would i plug the charcoal canister to? the manifold doesnt have any plugs for it.
thanks guys.[/QUOTE]

sonny try looking at the condition of the fuel filter, and look at the fuel pumps. i had a similar problem on my EF. it ended up being the fuel filter.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have this problem on the y8. when my car is started..and if i turn it off, and try to turn it back on ..it doesnt start...it'll just crank and crank for a long time. if i give it gas, it doesnt do anything. i have to wait like a little while..around 5-10 mins for it to start again. sometimes if im lucky, it'll start quick. i have a check engine light, code 10 which is air temp sensor..its not plugged..where is it at? it has a 96 ex manifold..dont know where the sensor is at. where would i plug the charcoal canister to? the manifold doesnt have any plugs for it.
thanks guys.
_______
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do this:

Turn your key into the "on" position but don't actually crank the car. Watch for your check engine light to go out and as it does you should here a nice "click!" in the lower portion of your dash near the pedal assemblies. That "click!" is from the main relay or fuel pump relay.

If you hear no "click!" then you simply need to replace that main relay. It turns the fuel pump on, and it is a very common item that goes afoul in these cars. Many people replace the actual $300.00+ fuel pump when the real problem is this $55.00 main relay with the part number being 39400-SH3-003.

If you do hear the noise and that main relay is indeed working, then I'd bet it's as simple as the coil in your distibutor. That's the second most common reason that an engine will spin over but not crank.

Pull out a plug wire and check for spark. No spark, probably bad coil.

If you have both spark and hear the main relay cutting on the fuel pump, then loosen the banjo bolt on top of your fuel filter and have someone simply vut the key "on" but not crank the car. If you have no fuel and the main relay cuts on, then and only then would I say you probably have a bad fuel pump.

Got questions?

Call me at the shop here in GA at (770)603-9197 - ask for Tom.

I only work on Acuras and Hondas, and I've got guys here with 20+years experience on only these cars if you ever need some help.

 

BTW:

A way to get the car to crank with a main relay going bad is to open up your doors and let cooler air get into the cabin of the car. Heat kills these things and when hot the main relay will not make contact and the car will simply spin over, but not crank.

It will only work this way so long before the main relay's connections insode of it simply stop making contact for good.

I'll take a picture of where the main relay is in the 1990 Civic I own. It's kind of a bitch to get to, but it's only like 1 or 2 10mm bolts holding it in.

 

I know how it feels when the car won't start when its hot. Really sucks especially when your at the gas station. But if you don't hear a click when you turn the key on then its your main relay. A good way to fix it is to take it out and open it up. when the main relay gets hot the connections tend to not make contact. What I did was just took it out, opened it up and looked for cracks in the solder and just resoldered it. Since then it hasn't gave me problem.