Anyone got a Walbro fuel pump?
I've just bought a new Walbro fuel pump kit for EF from Ebay it doesn't has wire connector, is it something missing or you don't need it??
All in the box are fuel filter, some ring and a small fuel hose.
Sound right to you??
All in the box are fuel filter, some ring and a small fuel hose.
Sound right to you??
theres a pig tail connector I got with my kit. It uses a rectangular plug. You have to splice into your factory harness with connectors but other then that, only wiring change. http://www.autoperformanceengi....html sells the pigtails in the kit for an addl 2.50 may be xtra seeing it seperate or you can check with any electrical automotive store and they probablly would also have something.
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I've just find this info., do I really need to?? I throught they're direct swap!!
Wiring:
1. OK, so the new pump is going to draw some serious amps. You will need to wire a bigger gauge to the pump and use a relay or you will smoke your main relay.
2. Extend the pump-on hot wire from the harness that used to go to the pump and the two wires from the pump. Leave the ground connected to the top of the pump assembly.
3. Drill a hole in the body so you can work in the back of the hatch. I drilled just to the driver¡¦s side of the two screw mounts for the vertical divider.
4. Run the pump hot and the pump-on hot through the hole (with a bushing or other anti-chafing method). Attach a ring terminal to the pump ground and bolt to the frame after sanding the terminal junction.
5. Mount a 30A relay close to the hole. I found there is a gap between the compartment and the vertical divider that a relay will fit in fine.
6. Put the pump hot on one side of the contacts and the pump-on hot on one side of the coil. Ground the other side of the coil with a nearby bolt.
7. Run a fused hot from the battery to the other side of the contact. Use a nice 10Ga. Wire and a 30A fuse. The fuse should be within 7 inches of the battery and sealed from the environment.
Wiring:
1. OK, so the new pump is going to draw some serious amps. You will need to wire a bigger gauge to the pump and use a relay or you will smoke your main relay.
2. Extend the pump-on hot wire from the harness that used to go to the pump and the two wires from the pump. Leave the ground connected to the top of the pump assembly.
3. Drill a hole in the body so you can work in the back of the hatch. I drilled just to the driver¡¦s side of the two screw mounts for the vertical divider.
4. Run the pump hot and the pump-on hot through the hole (with a bushing or other anti-chafing method). Attach a ring terminal to the pump ground and bolt to the frame after sanding the terminal junction.
5. Mount a 30A relay close to the hole. I found there is a gap between the compartment and the vertical divider that a relay will fit in fine.
6. Put the pump hot on one side of the contacts and the pump-on hot on one side of the coil. Ground the other side of the coil with a nearby bolt.
7. Run a fused hot from the battery to the other side of the contact. Use a nice 10Ga. Wire and a 30A fuse. The fuse should be within 7 inches of the battery and sealed from the environment.
I never did all that, just used the factory wiring that was there, my friend also did. I know DSM head live by that rule but there out there
. It may help but I dont see the sense in it unless your loosing that much voltage and fuel pressure drops alot. The 255 LPH/HP will put you at 60ish PSI if you use your stock FPR, I have a B&M and I cann't get lower then 40PSI with no vac. Dont know which one you have but that is my experience. Great pump, never had a problem
. It may help but I dont see the sense in it unless your loosing that much voltage and fuel pressure drops alot. The 255 LPH/HP will put you at 60ish PSI if you use your stock FPR, I have a B&M and I cann't get lower then 40PSI with no vac. Dont know which one you have but that is my experience. Great pump, never had a problem
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