AFR/Timing Q's
Ok guys,
After driving my car for the last several weeks, i decided to pull the plugs on my motor, after doing some serious street racing on Saturday night,(i know i shouldn't be,so don't say it)
So anyway i pull plug #1 and it looked ok, so then i pull plug #2 and it looks ok, then i mosey on over to plug #3 and what do i see??
well i look down at the bottom of the plug to see that the -electrob has been burned off!!!!
So i keep looking and i see that the + elelctrob insulation is also busted, and only half of it remains on the plug, so now i am very worried and thing WTF could have caused this??
So i keep on going through the plugs and they all look fine except for #3.
Any how i have still came to no conclusion on what could have caused this.
I rechecked my AFR after putting new plugs into the motor, and i am at 11.5-11.8 all the way to red line.
so i am either thinking i had to much timing in the motor, i was at 18 degrees timing @ 24 lbs of boost. and now i am at 16.but i do not boost 24lbs on pump gas so it shouldn't be a problem.
I am at 17 degrees of timing @ 18psi which is what i run on pump gas.(15-18 it varies a little).
So my Question to you guys is what could have caused this?? overboosted? To much timing? could i have hurt the motor really bad?? i did a compression test and they look great. i have 130psi all the way across, and this is pretty good for a stock cam and only 7.8:1 comp.
let me know what you guys think.
Brian
After driving my car for the last several weeks, i decided to pull the plugs on my motor, after doing some serious street racing on Saturday night,(i know i shouldn't be,so don't say it)
So anyway i pull plug #1 and it looked ok, so then i pull plug #2 and it looks ok, then i mosey on over to plug #3 and what do i see??
well i look down at the bottom of the plug to see that the -electrob has been burned off!!!!
So i keep looking and i see that the + elelctrob insulation is also busted, and only half of it remains on the plug, so now i am very worried and thing WTF could have caused this??So i keep on going through the plugs and they all look fine except for #3.
Any how i have still came to no conclusion on what could have caused this.
I rechecked my AFR after putting new plugs into the motor, and i am at 11.5-11.8 all the way to red line.
so i am either thinking i had to much timing in the motor, i was at 18 degrees timing @ 24 lbs of boost. and now i am at 16.but i do not boost 24lbs on pump gas so it shouldn't be a problem.
I am at 17 degrees of timing @ 18psi which is what i run on pump gas.(15-18 it varies a little).
So my Question to you guys is what could have caused this?? overboosted? To much timing? could i have hurt the motor really bad?? i did a compression test and they look great. i have 130psi all the way across, and this is pretty good for a stock cam and only 7.8:1 comp.
let me know what you guys think.
Brian
What are you using for fuel management? If it feels alright im willing to bet it was just the plugs...i hear you shouldn't use iridium on boosted cars..what heat range were they?
I am using hondata as my fuel management.
The car has always felt great!! it pulled strong even when the damn plug was skrewed!! lol
I bet you are right, that it was just a damn junk plug, i beleive the part # was K24.
Brian
The car has always felt great!! it pulled strong even when the damn plug was skrewed!! lol
I bet you are right, that it was just a damn junk plug, i beleive the part # was K24.
Brian
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i suspec to much timing retard will generate alote of heat and can melt plug,exaust valve even piston
you have an egt?
if you run race fuel (c16) you dont need to take off that much timing ive seen people run almost stock timing @20psi+ on c16
you have an egt?
if you run race fuel (c16) you dont need to take off that much timing ive seen people run almost stock timing @20psi+ on c16
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurbodCX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also i forgot to say that i was using iridium plugs, but now i am using BKR7E!!(neverhad this problem on them! )
Brian</TD></TR></TABLE>
You said it... It's the plugs. Iridium plugs were made for *****-OUT NA engines not FI ones. Switch back to normal 7 range NGKs and you'll be fine. Check them after a week of flogging.
Brian</TD></TR></TABLE>
You said it... It's the plugs. Iridium plugs were made for *****-OUT NA engines not FI ones. Switch back to normal 7 range NGKs and you'll be fine. Check them after a week of flogging.
What kind of timing control are you running on the car and what is your distributor
set at ? It sounds like there was detination in that cylinder or preignition maybe.
Is there any shiney stuff on the plug ? They say if you add more than 150hp to your motor you must go 2 steps colder plug and gap correctly.
set at ? It sounds like there was detination in that cylinder or preignition maybe.
Is there any shiney stuff on the plug ? They say if you add more than 150hp to your motor you must go 2 steps colder plug and gap correctly.
A friend of mine would go through plugs on his nitrous set-up like nothing. The electrodes would burn off, and the car would buck severely when they engaged the nitrous. My best guess would be that your running to hot of a heat range of plug, and you are melting them in the combustion chamber. Stick with convential NGK plugs, and go 2 heat ranges colder. You should be good to go. I wouldnt say that its detonation.
2 things:
1. Are the electrode arms bent on the #3 cylinder? A sure fire way to tell if that combustion chamber is detonating bad is that the electrode arm is bent from the shock of the detonation.
2. Do a full throttle run, immediately turn off the car. Keep the clutch to the floor, and the car out of gear. Coast to the side of the road, and pull your plugs. Read the plugs after you do this with a magnifying glass, you'll be able to see if you are detonating.
2 things:
1. Are the electrode arms bent on the #3 cylinder? A sure fire way to tell if that combustion chamber is detonating bad is that the electrode arm is bent from the shock of the detonation.
2. Do a full throttle run, immediately turn off the car. Keep the clutch to the floor, and the car out of gear. Coast to the side of the road, and pull your plugs. Read the plugs after you do this with a magnifying glass, you'll be able to see if you are detonating.
where are you getting those timing numbers from?is that your numbers at idle?if that is a number from a stand alone at high rpm and boost,it is way to low.i have never ran any less than 22 degrees at high rpm and boost(not at idle).i had iridium plugs(ik24) as well.that is the correct heat range(2 steps colder).mine blew off the iridium part of the plug under a very safe tune.i ran it like that for a long time before i realized it.switched to ngk and no problems anymore.
Hey Brian
Electrode melting is caused by pre-ignition. Unusally from to hot a heat range.
Now you said you also split the core. This is caused by detonation or to big of a
spark plug gap.
What i would do is run some NGK R5671A-10 plugs. You could get these from any local auto shop and they should be under $2 bucks. Also gap them to .025.
This should take care of your problem!
Your tuning is fine. Just yank those expensive plugs out and chunk them behind howard's garage. LOL
Later
Electrode melting is caused by pre-ignition. Unusally from to hot a heat range.
Now you said you also split the core. This is caused by detonation or to big of a
spark plug gap.
What i would do is run some NGK R5671A-10 plugs. You could get these from any local auto shop and they should be under $2 bucks. Also gap them to .025.
This should take care of your problem!
Your tuning is fine. Just yank those expensive plugs out and chunk them behind howard's garage. LOL
Later
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Header Tech »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey Brian
Electrode melting is caused by pre-ignition. Unusally from to hot a heat range.
Now you said you also split the core. This is caused by detonation or to big of a
spark plug gap.
What i would do is run some NGK R5671A-10 plugs. You could get these from any local auto shop and they should be under $2 bucks. Also gap them to .025.
This should take care of your problem!
Your tuning is fine. Just yank those expensive plugs out and chunk them behind howard's garage. LOL
Later</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hahahahaha yeah i just put BKR7E back in the car.
ok to answer some of the Questions, i did do a full throttle run down the interstate and the i cut it clean, the plugs look great with no signs of detonation at all.
The electrob does NOt look like it was bent at all, by looking at it, it looks like it just melted the very end off of it.
I was also using IK24 iridiums!!(Junk!)
On my hondata high speed map(after vtec) i am @ 16 of timing at 24lbs, and i am @17 of timing at 18 lbs, does this sound good??
Thanks alot for helping out guys!!!
i was really scared i fawked my motor !!!
Maybe it isnt true that you get what you pay for!! lol
Brian
Electrode melting is caused by pre-ignition. Unusally from to hot a heat range.
Now you said you also split the core. This is caused by detonation or to big of a
spark plug gap.
What i would do is run some NGK R5671A-10 plugs. You could get these from any local auto shop and they should be under $2 bucks. Also gap them to .025.
This should take care of your problem!
Your tuning is fine. Just yank those expensive plugs out and chunk them behind howard's garage. LOL
Later</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hahahahaha yeah i just put BKR7E back in the car.
ok to answer some of the Questions, i did do a full throttle run down the interstate and the i cut it clean, the plugs look great with no signs of detonation at all.
The electrob does NOt look like it was bent at all, by looking at it, it looks like it just melted the very end off of it.
I was also using IK24 iridiums!!(Junk!)
On my hondata high speed map(after vtec) i am @ 16 of timing at 24lbs, and i am @17 of timing at 18 lbs, does this sound good??
Thanks alot for helping out guys!!!
i was really scared i fawked my motor !!!
Maybe it isnt true that you get what you pay for!! lol
Brian
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbotypeR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where are you getting those timing numbers from?is that your numbers at idle?if that is a number from a stand alone at high rpm and boost,it is way to low.i have never ran any less than 22 degrees at high rpm and boost(not at idle).i had iridium plugs(ik24) as well.that is the correct heat range(2 steps colder).mine blew off the iridium part of the plug under a very safe tune.i ran it like that for a long time before i realized it.switched to ngk and no problems anymore. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Is this on race gas??? I am on PUMP gas..
When on my race gas tune i have 26 degrees in it!
Brian
Is this on race gas??? I am on PUMP gas..
When on my race gas tune i have 26 degrees in it!
Brian
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted hybrid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A friend of mine would go through plugs on his nitrous set-up like nothing. The electrodes would burn off, and the car would buck severely when they engaged the nitrous. My best guess would be that your running to hot of a heat range of plug, and you are melting them in the combustion chamber. Stick with convential NGK plugs, and go 2 heat ranges colder. You should be good to go. I wouldnt say that its detonation.
2 things:
1. Are the electrode arms bent on the #3 cylinder? A sure fire way to tell if that combustion chamber is detonating bad is that the electrode arm is bent from the shock of the detonation.
2. Do a full throttle run, immediately turn off the car. Keep the clutch to the floor, and the car out of gear. Coast to the side of the road, and pull your plugs. Read the plugs after you do this with a magnifying glass, you'll be able to see if you are detonating.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah i did the full throttle run down deal, and there is no signs of detonation at all, no silver ***** on the plugs, and all of the other plugs looked really good..just a light orange color.
I will try to get some pictures up on here tommorow for you guys to see..
Brian
2 things:
1. Are the electrode arms bent on the #3 cylinder? A sure fire way to tell if that combustion chamber is detonating bad is that the electrode arm is bent from the shock of the detonation.
2. Do a full throttle run, immediately turn off the car. Keep the clutch to the floor, and the car out of gear. Coast to the side of the road, and pull your plugs. Read the plugs after you do this with a magnifying glass, you'll be able to see if you are detonating.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah i did the full throttle run down deal, and there is no signs of detonation at all, no silver ***** on the plugs, and all of the other plugs looked really good..just a light orange color.
I will try to get some pictures up on here tommorow for you guys to see..
Brian
What would youguys recomend i run for timing on a 8:1 motor with 20psi of boost..
do you think i can get away with 20degrees?? i will be using 93 octane pump gas!!
do you think i can get away with 20degrees?? i will be using 93 octane pump gas!!
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