Shifter feels weird, is this normal?
Ever since I've had my GS-R (bought at 63k), I've noticed that the shifting requires an extra push to get into a gear. I'm not sure how to describe it, it's like there's a point of resistance that I have to push past to get into gear. The shifter doesn't just slide right in. It feels "chunky." Is this normal? When I drive my friend's cars that are non-Integras, I don't feel this, but, when I've driven my buddy's gs-r, I've felt the same thing. What's going on?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97RedTegGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mine feels normal I guess, regular put-in and put-out of gear. No stubborness at all</TD></TR></TABLE>
My gsr has the same problem on 1st gear and reverse, only when im at a complete stop. I'll sometimes force it in but how i usually do is, release my clutch, put into neutral, go into reverse and go back to 1st and slides right in. vise versa with my reverse. only sometimes it will do this, is this normal?
If your gearbox is like mine, this feeling should decrease a bit as the gearbox warms up. It can be very grouchy first thing in the morning ~ 
But yeah, my gearbox (I have a 98 RS) is pretty notchy. My cheap short shifter probably doesn't help.

But yeah, my gearbox (I have a 98 RS) is pretty notchy. My cheap short shifter probably doesn't help.
change the tranny fluid, either use oem honda fluid or you can use redline mtl.
redline is fully synthetic and costs about $7 a quart, ive heard very good things about it, but with 130k miles on my teg, there is no way im using any synthetic oils.
i used o.e fluid and the notchy feeling when shifting disapeared
redline is fully synthetic and costs about $7 a quart, ive heard very good things about it, but with 130k miles on my teg, there is no way im using any synthetic oils.
i used o.e fluid and the notchy feeling when shifting disapeared
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Is changing the tranny fluid tough? I've never done it before (I've only had a manual trans. car for 1.5 months) and don't know how to do it. I'm guessing the Honda transmission fluid can be picked up at any dealer. Also, do oil change places change tranny fluid when you get an oil change? I'll be doing oil changes myself, but as an initial one, I want to go to Jiffy Lube cuz they have this policy about unlimited top offs on certain fluids between oil changes.
Not really. Pull the fill plug, pull the drain plug and drain. Replace drain plug and fill with fluid until it seeps from the fill hole (2.2 or 2.3 quarts). Filling is most easily done from above with a funnel and a flexible hose. Grab a Haynes manual for helpful pictures.
Theoretically, getting MTF from a Honda dealer should be easy. Last time I tried, I got the runaround (because they couldn't just say they didn't have it). Hopefully your local dealer is more helpful.
Theoretically, getting MTF from a Honda dealer should be easy. Last time I tried, I got the runaround (because they couldn't just say they didn't have it). Hopefully your local dealer is more helpful.
Thanks, sounds easy enough. How much is the OEM Fluid anyway? Is there any other brand that's better than OEM for a 60-70k mile car?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DrMartin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My gsr has the same problem on 1st gear and reverse, only when im at a complete stop. I'll sometimes force it in but how i usually do is, release my clutch, put into neutral, go into reverse and go back to 1st and slides right in. vise versa with my reverse. only sometimes it will do this, is this normal?</TD></TR></TABLE>
MY 94 GSR does the same thing. My 96 accord did it too!
MY 94 GSR does the same thing. My 96 accord did it too!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xintegra01 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you're refering to 1st and reverse thats normal for tegs, they will only go in smoothly when at a complete stop.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sometimes I will be stopped try to put it in first and it won't go. So i Shift into revrse, then back to first and there is no problem. It goes in smoothly.
Sometimes I will be stopped try to put it in first and it won't go. So i Shift into revrse, then back to first and there is no problem. It goes in smoothly.
Go under your dash to your pedals and loosen the 12mm nut and turn the rod 3/4 to 1 turn to the left (out). This will let your clutch dis-engage more.
Downey just did this for me yesterday, made a big difference.
Thanks Downey
Downey just did this for me yesterday, made a big difference.
Thanks Downey
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DrMartin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My gsr has the same problem on 1st gear and reverse, only when im at a complete stop. I'll sometimes force it in but how i usually do is, release my clutch, put into neutral, go into reverse and go back to 1st and slides right in. vise versa with my reverse. only sometimes it will do this, is this normal?</TD></TR></TABLE>
ditto... and I have a shortshifter too
ditto... and I have a shortshifter too
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 29,940
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
If it shifts fine when the car is stopped and idling, but gets harder as RPM increases, the clutch is probably not disengaging all the way. One of the springs might have popped out of the disc, or as was the case with mine, parts of the disc were breaking off. My throwout bearing was also horribly shot to hell. But it's all better now w/ a new CM clutch and flywheel.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it shifts fine when the car is stopped and idling, but gets harder as RPM increases, the clutch is probably not disengaging all the way. One of the springs might have popped out of the disc, or as was the case with mine, parts of the disc were breaking off. My throwout bearing was also horribly shot to hell. But it's all better now w/ a new CM clutch and flywheel.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was worried that was the case actually, but I just got a brand new clutch less than 1000 miles ago, so I don't think that's it. At least I hope it isn't, that would **** me off severely.
Also, before I bought my car, I was told by the dealer (Acura of Bellevue) that my car recently had it's 60k tune up. Is a tranny flush / change of transmission fluid included in this?
Modified by alfaaay at 8:48 AM 4/21/2003
</TD></TR></TABLE>I was worried that was the case actually, but I just got a brand new clutch less than 1000 miles ago, so I don't think that's it. At least I hope it isn't, that would **** me off severely.
Also, before I bought my car, I was told by the dealer (Acura of Bellevue) that my car recently had it's 60k tune up. Is a tranny flush / change of transmission fluid included in this?
Modified by alfaaay at 8:48 AM 4/21/2003
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alfaaay »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I was worried that was the case actually, but I just got a brand new clutch less than 1000 miles ago, so I don't think that's it. At least I hope it isn't, that would **** me off severely.
Also, before I bought my car, I was told by the dealer (Acura of Bellevue) that my car recently had it's 60k tune up. Is a tranny flush / change of transmission fluid included in this?
Modified by alfaaay at 8:48 AM 4/21/2003</TD></TR></TABLE>
you need to adjust the clutch pedal after you add a new clutch.. losen the nut on the rod (under dash) and turn the rod to the left just a little bit. tighten back up, and take for a drive. little adjustment makes a big difference.
I was worried that was the case actually, but I just got a brand new clutch less than 1000 miles ago, so I don't think that's it. At least I hope it isn't, that would **** me off severely.
Also, before I bought my car, I was told by the dealer (Acura of Bellevue) that my car recently had it's 60k tune up. Is a tranny flush / change of transmission fluid included in this?
Modified by alfaaay at 8:48 AM 4/21/2003</TD></TR></TABLE>
you need to adjust the clutch pedal after you add a new clutch.. losen the nut on the rod (under dash) and turn the rod to the left just a little bit. tighten back up, and take for a drive. little adjustment makes a big difference.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DrMartin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My gsr has the same problem on 1st gear and reverse, only when im at a complete stop. I'll sometimes force it in but how i usually do is, release my clutch, put into neutral, go into reverse and go back to 1st and slides right in. vise versa with my reverse. only sometimes it will do this, is this normal?</TD></TR></TABLE>
same thing with my car only does it sometimes at 1st and reverse
same thing with my car only does it sometimes at 1st and reverse
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 29,940
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Downey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you need to adjust the clutch pedal after you add a new clutch.. losen the nut on the rod (under dash) and turn the rod to the left just a little bit. tighten back up, and take for a drive. little adjustment makes a big difference.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have never heard this, I don't believe the Helm's manual specifies this as necessary after a clutch install. I just installed mine and it shifts fine, albeit with a lighter clutch pedal than before.
you need to adjust the clutch pedal after you add a new clutch.. losen the nut on the rod (under dash) and turn the rod to the left just a little bit. tighten back up, and take for a drive. little adjustment makes a big difference.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have never heard this, I don't believe the Helm's manual specifies this as necessary after a clutch install. I just installed mine and it shifts fine, albeit with a lighter clutch pedal than before.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I have never heard this, I don't believe the Helm's manual specifies this as necessary after a clutch install. I just installed mine and it shifts fine, albeit with a lighter clutch pedal than before.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok. maybe the Helms doesnt say to do it, but if you have a notchy shifter, its probably because the clutch isnt dis-engaging all the way. a simple little adjustment of the pedal can make it perfect.
I have never heard this, I don't believe the Helm's manual specifies this as necessary after a clutch install. I just installed mine and it shifts fine, albeit with a lighter clutch pedal than before.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok. maybe the Helms doesnt say to do it, but if you have a notchy shifter, its probably because the clutch isnt dis-engaging all the way. a simple little adjustment of the pedal can make it perfect.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Downey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
ok. maybe the Helms doesnt say to do it, but if you have a notchy shifter, its probably because the clutch isnt dis-engaging all the way. a simple little adjustment of the pedal can make it perfect. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Does this still apply if I don't have to press the clutch pedal all the way down to shift? I can shift with the pedal only halfway down. Taking off in first also does not require that the pedal be all the way down and released.
ok. maybe the Helms doesnt say to do it, but if you have a notchy shifter, its probably because the clutch isnt dis-engaging all the way. a simple little adjustment of the pedal can make it perfect. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Does this still apply if I don't have to press the clutch pedal all the way down to shift? I can shift with the pedal only halfway down. Taking off in first also does not require that the pedal be all the way down and released.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xintegra01 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you're refering to 1st and reverse thats normal for tegs, they will only go in smoothly when at a complete stop.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats not entirely true. if you want to go into first while moving just throw it in neutral rev it up to about 2k or higher(rev match it) and drop it into first... it goes right in.
thats not entirely true. if you want to go into first while moving just throw it in neutral rev it up to about 2k or higher(rev match it) and drop it into first... it goes right in.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alfaaay »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Does this still apply if I don't have to press the clutch pedal all the way down to shift? I can shift with the pedal only halfway down. Taking off in first also does not require that the pedal be all the way down and released.</TD></TR></TABLE>
[in response to this]:
Quote, originally posted by Downey »
ok. maybe the Helms doesnt say to do it, but if you have a notchy shifter, its probably because the clutch isnt dis-engaging all the way. a simple little adjustment of the pedal can make it perfect.
...see the quote for my question.
Does this still apply if I don't have to press the clutch pedal all the way down to shift? I can shift with the pedal only halfway down. Taking off in first also does not require that the pedal be all the way down and released.</TD></TR></TABLE>
[in response to this]:
Quote, originally posted by Downey »
ok. maybe the Helms doesnt say to do it, but if you have a notchy shifter, its probably because the clutch isnt dis-engaging all the way. a simple little adjustment of the pedal can make it perfect.
...see the quote for my question.
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