This is a logical suite to the other thread I just started.

Reading it might give you the picture: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=479954

Aight. You probably know from some of my previous post that the priorities for me when it comes down to modding an engine are the following:
1. Reliability
2. Gas consumption
3. Performance (keep me happy for those long road trips)
4. Budget

I need to choose an engine, and a few are proposed to me, so I will ask questions I have on each. Ideally, I would just slap in another F22B1, but I have only one at hand for now, and it has already 100K on it. Not the best for me. I could have to do more reasearch in areas further away from home, meaning longer delays? Is it worth waiting or would it be just as good as to passing on to another engine?

These are the other options:

2. My second easiest choice after the F22B1 would be an OBD1 H22A. Only, I could see a loss in performance since header and cam gear won't fit and FPR be pretty much useless too.

3. F23 VTEC. My tech has two of these longblocks sitting there with 0 miles to them, they came out of crash test cars. They have never been fired! ::drool::
Questions : Can I get the shortblock to fit on my F22B1 accessories, that is header, intake manifold, AC, PS pulleys, and Alternator pulleys? Also, can I make it work on an OBD1 ECU without completely "ghettoising" it? If not, will these bolt-ons I have create any problems for the OBD2 ECU, meaning I'd have to re-chip it or get a completely programmable ECU?

99 OBD2 H22A longblock without tranny: Basically the same questions as the F23, although I know that, obviously the header and IM won't fit.

Well thanks for your patience reading my long posts, but I really appreciate your responses, they are worth big $$ to me.

for you guys.

 

It's between the H22A, and F23. The H22A has a lot of power. Don't know much about that engine, though. An F23 has decent power. Most H22A parts will fit on the F23. Because you can get one with 0 miles on it, makes me lean towards the F23.

 

if your on a budget,
brand new f22 or f23 dont go more 600$ on ebay
but im not sure if those guys are reliable,
but if you love your car, why not rebuild the engine
and port & polish the head and go all motor!
im pretty sure the p&p will give u near specs of the h22.
i think, just a suggestion... so correct me if im wrong
and does anyone know how much Hp gain after a p&p is done?
thanks..

 

Thanks for the reply.
I'm afraid I can't rebuild that engine with the hole it has in there. I'll see next week what's up with the internals, but I don't expect that much will be good enough to salvage.

Anyways, I'm more in a hurry to get back on the road to be able to work to wait till the engine gets rebuilt.

P&P is a good idea.

And I think my F22 was already meetingup with the H22, at least as far as torque is concerned, so P&P would have definately put it up there higher.

I'm also attracted to the F23, because I believe I could slap on pretty much all the bolt-ons I had for the F22. It's mostly about the compatibility with OBD1-2 that I'm not sure, I guess, but I also still have that little doubt the header may not fit.

 

After a port, and polish is done, there are clear gains. I know for a fact that CNC ported heads see definite gains. There was a recent thread about this. An H22A with just a DC header, and an RSR exhaust was dynoed at 176whp/144tq. After the CNC ported head came into play, it was dynoed at 188whp/151tq. Here's the thread. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=475759

 

Yeah, I've seen it. Pretty impressive too!

Before I let this thread go away, are any of you able to tell me about the F23A1, I know it fits in the engine bay no problem, but can it mate to my DC header for F22B1, and about my adjustable cam gear, can it fit on the F23, and can I adjust it without the OBD2 ECU calling me all sorts of names?

Thanks again.
Jeff

 

im not sure about the cam gear, but the header will not fit the f23, i remember reading about it in one of the earlier posts a while back. the holes are in different positions for the exhaust outlet.

i think you should reconsider the h22 swap, you said it would be a performance downgrade for you but i dont think that a h22 swap would be downgrading considering that an accord with a stock h22 can still whoop up on an accord with a f22 with all the bolt ons any day. from reading your other post, im seeing that you have:

bolt ons (i/h/e)
cam gear
fpr
clutch and lighten flywheel

as stated above the header cant be reused but the tranny components of an f and h are swappable so you can reuse the clutch and flywheel from your manual swap with the h22, i've read that some people modify the rail mounts or something like that to use the f22 fuel rail on the h22 so the fpr is reusable if you do that. with this in consideration i think the h22 would be the best swap for you.

also, with a properly tuned engine you would still get pretty good gas mileage. my gas mileage now, with the h22, is comparable to when it was with the f23 when i had it, i remember gettin around 400 highway miles per tank when i drove it all they way to empty and i get about 390 with the h22.


Modified by areyouasian at 12:04 AM 4/21/2003


Modified by areyouasian at 12:09 AM 4/21/2003

 

Thanks areyouasian (late to respond...). You got it pretty right for the mods. Add to it the underdrived lightweight accessories pulleys, and that's pretty much that, performance-wise.

I will, however, stick with the F22B1, at least for now. I bought me a 96 shortblock today, for $430, shipped.

I think it is probably the best move to do as far as reliability goes. I could have swapped an H22A OBD1 for 1700$, had found a pretty good deal in Ontario, but there would have been considerably more work to be done on it, and I don't have the time to do it, I need the car running again as quickly. So I put faith to the SOHC, and try to keep extracting more potential out of it (read better header, but also headwork at some point, maybe).

Thanks for your advise, made my choice easier.

To y'all: