it's kinda embarassing to ask this kinda question here, but what do i get to lose...
not having the helms book in hand, would it be an easy thing to change the brake pad? I'm not mechanically inclined, so for this kinda things i usually bring the car the the shop, but i'll be on the track soon, and might need to change the pads if it's getting too hot.

any chance anyone from here gonna be at NHIS on may 1st?

 

Break lugs loose
Jack up front of car
Support with jackstands
remove wheel
remove lower 12mm nut holding brake caliper to bracket
swing caliper up - may require some fiddling since the pads have been on a while
note orientation of stock pads
remove stock pads
install new pads in same orientation
depress caliper piston using a c-clamp or 1/2" ratchet (hold ratchet lengthwise against the piston and grab back of caliper and push the fugger in slowly)
swing caliper back down, replace 12mm bolt - torque it to 30-40ft-lbs or so.
re-install wheels, lower car off jacks
bed in pads.

 

not too difficult...if you take off the wheel, and just look at the caliper and the pad you can pretty much see everything the way it should be installed. take a pic of the stock set up, and then use that pic as a guide. they just pop right back into the caliper where the other pads were. cake.

 

I'll assume you are talking about the front brakes. The rears are similar, but you have to spin the caliper piston in order to get it to go back in.

1. Take off your wheel.
2. Take off the bottom bolt on the back of the caliper. I believe it is a 12mm bolt. You may also have to loosen (slightly) the top rear caliper bolt.
3. Swing the caliper upwards and out of the way.
4. Remove brake pads.
5. Put new brake pads in place.
6. Put caliper back in place. you MAY have to use some sort of vice grip type thing to push the caliper back into place so that you can slide the caliper back into place.
6.5. If you have to push the piston back in, you may overflow your brake fluid. Use a turkey baster if you see the fluid level rising.
7. Retighten bolts
8. Bleeding the brakes never hurt too.
9. Bed pads!

Edit- Damn you RJ. I'm a minute slow.

 

What they said. A little anti-seize on the bolt you remove never hurt either.

 

almsot forgot... antiseize not necessary but l00b hte caliper slide pins (you'll notice them as they are probably l00bed when you take off the caliper) is good too.

pick it up at autozone or whatnot, its labeled "caliper slide pin l00b" or something.

 

do NOT breath in the brake dust.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cosworth &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do NOT breath in the brake dust. </TD></TR></TABLE>

...or you'll start acting all goofy like Sean.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris N &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

...or you'll start acting all goofy like Sean. </TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL! He got you good there buddy!

BTW - Changing brakes is easy. Hour or so for the first time...maybe a little longer, but once you get it, 30-45mins tops.

 

It's pretty easy. Do what everyone else said. The hardest part is loosening the 12 mil bolts that hold the caliper assembly. I had to actually hit my ratchet with a hammer to break the bolts loose. Before pushing in the old pads before taking them out, remove the brake fluid reservior cap and dab a wad of papertowel in there so the fluid is absorbed, thus preventing overflow when the fluid is pushed back through.

 

I'll be at the May 1st NHIS event with BMWCCA.

Are you bringing an R? It'll be great to see another R there. If you have any questions feel free to ask. I'm a mentor for the club event.

Changing brake pads isn't hard at all. Follow the previous posts here and you should do fine.

 

Is this BMWCCA event hosted by White Mountain Chapter....??
I attended their event once (10/2001) and was lucky enough teach by an Instructor (I forgot his name ) who also drive a CW ITR.

His driving ....

good luck to have him as your instructor

 

it is a relatively simple task, but i would suggest you practice it once off the track ( at YOUR HOUSE! lol).

 

May 1st event is actually hosted by the Boston Chapter.

Your former instructor who drove a CW ITR was Bruce Smith. He no longer drives an ITR unfortunately.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WhosITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is this BMWCCA event hosted by White Mountain Chapter....??
I attended their event once (10/2001) and was lucky enough teach by an Instructor (I forgot his name ) who also drive a CW ITR.

His driving ....

good luck to have him as your instructor

</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I'm late on this post, but..

Got an Integra LS that I'm trying to replace the rear pads on, is it possible that the pistons in the rear caliper have to "unscrewed" or do I just need to get a bigger clamp?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wino &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm late on this post, but..

Got an Integra LS that I'm trying to replace the rear pads on, is it possible that the pistons in the rear caliper have to "unscrewed" or do I just need to get a bigger clamp?</TD></TR></TABLE>

don't remember if they are but.... if their is a phillips head shape mark on the top of it then yes.... if its just hollow (like the fronts) need to use the C clamp.

 

wrong! do not use a c-clamp on the rear calipers.

go to pep boys/autozone/etc and get the tool, it looks like a little cube, you stick it in your 3/8" drive socket wrench and use it to turn the caliper in.

 

For the fronts, I find it easier to depress the caliper piston before you begin. WIth a large sliding C clamp you can get around the caliper on the outside and press the piston apart. Then, loosen the caliper bolt and swing it up.

For the rears I use a heavy duty 2.5" putty knife and a screwdriver through the hole in the handle of the putty knife. Stick the blade of the putty knife into the slot and twist. My piston has a hard time twisting back in, but I;ve watched others do it without any resistance at all.

 

Ooh, thanks a ton, I roached the c-clamps handle trying to depress the piston, thank you guys a ton!

 

Drive it into the Service Lane.
Give information to the Service Advisor.
Go handle other business.
Pay my bill.
Drive off with warranty in case anything happens.

LoL...Hey I'm lazy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nimbus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">May 1st event is actually hosted by the Boston Chapter.

Your former instructor who drove a CW ITR was Bruce Smith. He no longer drives an ITR unfortunately.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Aaron, where were you during that day? I had bruce smith as my instructor, and man he's fantastic. He still owns the ITR, but currently he's trying to get used to his newly acquired E30. he knew how the ITR handles, and showed me the right line to follow, and i managed to get really close to more muscular cars in corners in my novice group. There's another event on the 30th.

 

you forgot one important step:
Got to Autozone and get:
(new front brake rotors for ITR)
95 Acura Legend 4-door sedan LE/SE model = #3296 = $24.99 each.
Then Install.

Too cheap to not replace...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris N &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'll assume you are talking about the front brakes. The rears are similar, but you have to spin the caliper piston in order to get it to go back in.

1. Take off your wheel.
2. Take off the bottom bolt on the back of the caliper. I believe it is a 12mm bolt. You may also have to loosen (slightly) the top rear caliper bolt.
3. Swing the caliper upwards and out of the way.
4. Remove brake pads.
5. Put new brake pads in place.
6. Put caliper back in place. you MAY have to use some sort of vice grip type thing to push the caliper back into place so that you can slide the caliper back into place.
6.5. If you have to push the piston back in, you may overflow your brake fluid. Use a turkey baster if you see the fluid level rising.
7. Retighten bolts
8. Bleeding the brakes never hurt too.
9. Bed pads!

Edit- Damn you RJ. I'm a minute slow. </TD></TR></TABLE>
thank you

 

how about the brake fluid? is that hard to do? im thinking about changing my pads, fluid, rotors, and brake lines soon.

 

For the slide pins, I used "Hi temp disc brake wheel bearing grease" will this be fine? i hope..
I put my new pads in today..they seem a lil soft, didnt drive anywhere yet, just in the driveway (first time doing brakes..) Will the pedal stiffin up at all? I plan to put all new fluid in anyway. Just wondering tho if i did anything wrong.