For H22A:

Ok, I'm currently in the process of taking apart my motor, something let go, and so far I have found a loose timing belt. Ya, taking it kind of slow, first time doing this. What I can tell you is when it finally died - In the driveway luckily - it sounded like a can of marbles under the hood just before. Having found the cams pointing in opposite directions, I can only assume the pistons met the valves, making a big mess inside, I'll find that out soon enough.

What I'm looking for is suggestions on the rebuild. I want it to be streetable, not necessarily legal, but good for daily driving, plus be a N/A sleeper. So, pistons, go with Type-S w/rings? I want to be able to run pump gas. Compatible rods? Valves, retainers, springs? Cam shafts? Do I need to go with some form of aftermarket cam gears? Feul upgrades, injectors, fuel pump, fuel pressure? Ignition ugrades? Anything I should be doing here?

Obviously I'm not going for a full race setup, so I don't believe I need anything too extreme, and I do not plan on going FI, except for maybe some nitrous down the road, but again, nothing more than a 75 shot.

I should note that I have been reading a lot of the posts on here lately, and there is a lot of good info. What I am looking for is details of manufacturers to look at, maybe even pricing knowledge any of you have.

Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

 

dont expect to be real fast n/a. you can make it quick, but its still going to be exspansive. untill reacently type-s pistons were the way to go, on non-sleeved n/a blocks, but now wiesco makes one compatable w/frm. id go w/11.5-12:1, 11.5 will be easier to tune. eagle rods. as far as valvetrain, i went all out, but this is where you have to ask yourself how much you want to spend. if you just want the best ****, go w/full ferria. probly skunk2 stage 2 cams, stay away from type-s cams. hondata s100 for tuning, and some 450's.

w/n20 id go 2 stage, 50 in first, and 80 more in second. trust me youll want more then a 75 shot after about a week, and then youll be glad you have those pistons.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastludeh22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont expect to be real fast n/a. you can make it quick, but its still going to be exspansive.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So what is fast N/A? Just curious...

I would also agree on this build up, with the exception that the FRM sleeves are very hard to get honed properly. Few shops are equipped to do the work even if they have a factory manual in thier hands telling them step by step what to do. The new "FRM compatable" pistons are a great thing, but this will depend on if the machine shop has the capability to hone the FRM properly. DON"T BE FOOLED IF THEY SAY THEY CAN DO IT! MAKE SURE! I recently sent out 2 blocks to 2 seperate companies who "claim" to be reputable experts in the import industry. I will not name names, but niether did the work properly. As a result I have had one block resleeved with darton sleeves and the other will get the same treatment.

 

I've got crower 2's, type s pistons eagle rods, obd1 p72 and hondata plus other Idon't feel like listing.. car is capable of high 13's and drives amazing...just like stock except for polyurathatne motor mounts which cause a little extra vibration which I have no problem dealing w.... remember that very important in a rebuild is making sure ur sleeves are honed properly:

1990-2001 Prelude – Honing Fiber Reinforced Metal (FRM) cylinders 2000-01 S2000

All S2000 and 1990 and later VTEC and SI Preludes have Fiber-Reinforced Metal (FRM) cylinder liners. FRM honing is not required unless the cylinder has deep vertical scratches that run the length of the bore. Cylinders with light colored spots or flaking cannot be corrected by honing and must be replaced.

To hone FRM liners, perform the following:
· Use a rigid hone (not a ball hone) with GC-600-J or finer stones for nonferrous metals. The honing pressure should be 200-300 kPa (2-3 kg-cm2, 29-43 psi).
· Use an oil type honing oil.
· Hone at 45-50 rpm to a 60 degree-crosshatch pattern.
· Do not stroke the hone more than 20 cycles.
· After honing, thoroughly clean the engine block of all metal particles by washing with hot soapy water, then dry and oil them immediately. Never use solvent; it will only redistribute the grit.
· Some light vertical scoring and scratching is acceptable if it isn’t deep enough to catch your fingernail, and doesn’t run the full length of the bore. (rm,sn)

Make sure whoever is doing this has done it before on other blocks like s2000, h22's or nsx motors...

I would also reccomend getting type-s .25 oversize so u can get a good seal.. bore out a bit and eliminate any distortion ur cylinders might have...

If u need valves I'm selling my stock ones...which to be quite honest probably flow better than aftermarket valves. I'm still scratching my head as to why I got crower valves? I probably lost a bit of flow?

 

Let's say I don't plan on resleeving, unless I absolutely have to. Maybe just a nice hone job on what's there if it is useable. Will the Wiseco pistons/rings still be an option? You say to stay away from Type-S cams, and you say skunk2 stage II cams are the way to go. What kind of expectations should I have from these without a relseeve job? Should I just go with something slightly milder? Mentioned were 450 injectors, who, where to get those from? How about ignition, do I need to do something here as well?

I should mention, I plan on using my CC DC header, Greddy PE exhaust, CAI, and the AEM pullies I already have. I have a chipped ECU, the old version Dinan used to sell a few years back that raises the fuel cut off to 8100. It did a nice job of changing the fuel maps before VTEC, smoothed out the lower end of the RPM's. I also already have a ACT clutch.

 

Oh and u don't need injectors....I made the mistake of using 440 dsm injectors..totally not needed.... get a better fuel pump walbro 225lph and a fuel pressure regulator...thats all u need on the fuel side of things.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94vtecmn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Let's say I don't plan on resleeving, unless I absolutely have to. Maybe just a nice hone job on what's there if it is useable. Will the Wiseco pistons/rings still be an option? You say to stay away from Type-S cams, and you say skunk2 stage II cams are the way to go. What kind of expectations should I have from these without a relseeve job? Should I just go with something slightly milder? Mentioned were 450 injectors, who, where to get those from? How about ignition, do I need to do something here as well?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would stick w stock sleeves and just get the .25 oversize S pistons and honed the existing sleeves. Only time u'd wanna sleeve N/A is for high compression forged pistons which have big valve reliefs to accomodate wild or very aggressive cams... I don't think thats what ur going for...
Ignition is a waste unless ur going FI, crazy na or n2o. Honda stock ignitions are very good. If I were u I would..sell the header, get a greddy much better for ur car.. and get a p72 w hondata hooked u...sell the dinan ecu... my car made about 185whp untuned.. hondata tuning brought me over 200whp. Tuning is so very important... As far as cam gears go...I have crowers..there totally sweet...u can tell there really good quality pieces...

 

Ok, no new injectors, no new ignition pieces, at this time. For the Header, what am I going to have to spend for the Greddy? I remember way back, that they were a lot more expensive. I may just stick with what I have at this time, and save up for that in the future. And for the p72 with Hondata, what kind of dinero's are we talking here? What is the p72 exactly, not familiar with that nor the Hondata.

 

I saw a greddy header new on ebay for $350.u can sell ur dc would be worth it DC headers for h22's are ****. I have one and am gonna get rid of it....now the p72 ecu is from an integra gsr obd1.... u need this ecu for 2 reasons..1 is plugs into the hondata system, 2 it will open ur secondary intake manifold runners when needed. thus not losing low end power. pricing...well ur looking in between 300 and 400 for the ecu there high in demand unless u get lucky...and I dunno what the new hondata s200 are but the basic one is probably not all that expensive. Full control of fueling and timing really the best tool for tuning...Find someone in ur area who tunes hondata if u want more pricing or details..well worht it though.. If ur not gonna get ignition and injectors..money saved there is well worth it on this stuff

 

Well, I'm on my way. I have the motor out of the car sitting on a cart ready to be stripped down. I figure first I'll get the rest of the timing belt cover off behind the crank pulley and see what's left back there. Any advice to get that sucker off? I have a puller, just haven't had time to get to it yet. Then, the fuel rail/intake manifold come off, and then the head. Suggestions?