So how many of you warped your rotors? I am using Endless CCX on all four corners and on the way to the expo, I felt a tad of shaking when I press the break at high speed. But unexpectly, these Autozone rotors gave out 3 laps on first day's first session.

So I traded off the 2nd session by searching for tools and put on the new brembo blanks from Colletti After I embeded them, I ran the 3rd session with satisfactory breaking.

After sunday's first session, the brake start to feel mushy. So again, I sat on the 2nd session drainning out the old Motul brake fluid and clutch fluid and replace them with ATE superblues. Well, the pedals are not firm, but once I am out on the track in the 3rd session, the brembos rotors gave out again after 5 hot laps. Once I am back to the pits, my front brake are sm0king with tiny flames!!
And I wasn't even breaking that hard as I tried to drive smooth throughout the event. I brake at the 150 in the front straight and the 3 cones mark at the uphill. There is no way that I am over using these brakes.

What is the problem here that I went through 2 sets of rotor with merely 60 minutes of track time? Should I resurface the CCX? What is a good rotor to go with agressive pads that can last me more than one event?

 

THIS IS CHAD....


the only brake problems i had this weekend were when i was in someone else's car.....usually with stock pads and fluid.....i think i cooked at least 4 stock ITR pads and fluid in bout 3 laps....

jason (kit kat)'s r is by far the fastest r i have driven....but with stock pads braking became an issue when i was at 133 on the back straight braking at the 2 cones!!!!

 

Its not the rotors, unless they cracked in half, they are fine.. Pads, maybe.....

 

Ray-

I can't imagine that you went through 2 sets of rotors due to track dedicated pads!

Maybe it's got something to do with your calipers? It might need rebuilding, who knows. Get some legend calipers or SpOOm calipers.

I was running on Cobalt GT-Sport (which btw was awesome) with stock rotors + ATE superblude, and it felt great for the most part. Never warped my rotors (stock). The pedal felt a bit mush after the second session on day 1 due to usage, but that's about it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FAST4DR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">jason (kit kat)'s r is by far the fastest r i have driven....but with stock pads braking became an issue when i was at 133 on the back straight braking at the 2 cones!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Setup?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jason Franza &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Setup?</TD></TR></TABLE>Fast.

 

I was told by my instructor, who is not an H-T person, that I had warped rotors (Very badly warped rotors he said, that's a quote) after the 5th lap on the first day. I had a violent shudder in the steering rack and the car was noticeably wiggling. Very scary when you have that shudder at 115mph and you need to stop and stop fast.

I was running Cobalt GT-R v-spec VR in front and cobalt rotors.

I found Trey, who I then went for a walk with the look for Andie. From about 50 feet away, Andie says "That's a film transfer, I'll take your car out with you and re-bed the pads". So much for 'very badly warped rotors'.

We did about Fifteen 90/100 mph stops on PA Route 18. I'm not sure how slow we got after each brake, probably 40-50. After 15 stops, not getting enough sleep and not feeling all that well, I was very very naseuous.

Anyhoo... BIG GIANT THANKS to Andie for helping me re-bed my pads. Didn't miss a lap and got to talk to Andie for about 45 minutes while we talked about what had happened and while we re-bed the pads.

BTW - the pads were amazing... no fade, good cold, Awesome when hot. Amazing Pads!!

 

JUN 3 + ATS FD + other goodies.

133mph

 

I probably took off a good 40% of my pads.

My instructor Corey stated, if the car isn't humping with ABS, you aren't pressing the brakes hard enough. Slam on those bitches.

 

It's not the rotors. It's the pads.

Warren

 

Should I just resurface the pads or time to get new ones? They still seem pretty beefy.

 

Go re-bed them, and re-bed them much harder.

 

Re-Bed with new rotors or the current shaking ones?
Previously, I've done 3 60-30 brakes and 3 other 80-40 brakes...I did them pretty hard as the tires locked up and skid.

 

You can either have the rotors cut to get rid of the junk on them, or just call it a day and go with a new setup which won't leave so much uneven deposits on the rotor.

Warren

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Warren &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can either have the rotors cut to get rid of the junk on them, or just call it a day and go with a new setup which won't leave so much uneven deposits on the rotor.

Warren</TD></TR></TABLE>

Or just sandpaper them down a little, worked great for me..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nEoMuGen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Re-Bed with new rotors or the current shaking ones?
Previously, I've done 3 60-30 brakes and 3 other 80-40 brakes...I did them pretty hard as the tires locked up and skid.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I did the same thing, except I did 6 passes from 60 or so to 15, then 6 more with harder pressure.

On the 5th lap I had what was thought to be warped rotors. I was stabbing at the brake and not being smooth, and caused the pads to leave a film several places on the rotors.

Andie took me out and we re-bedded them at much higher speeds, upwards of 100mph. He was at the threshold also, and we did about 15 brakes in a very short time span. I let them sit for the next few hours (except when we went out on track for the shots at lunch on saturday) and had zero problems after that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Warren &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's not the rotors. It's the pads.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's not the rotors or the pads, and the rotors aren't warping. Andie is right - it's film transfer.

Read more here.

BTW I'm using Endless CC-X pads (great pads BTW) and I get 6-8 track events per set of slotted two-piece Stoptech rotors.

 

I believe I was sitting in your car in the last session on Sunday. I remember your car was having a little "shake" under braking. I don't think they are too bad.
I will take some ppl advice to re-bed the pad or resurface the rotor since they're brand new.

btw.....I had similar brake issue on Saturday but after replace the 3 weeks old rotor with a set of aged old brembo given free from Aaron.......my brake work prefect.

I still not sure what to cause the "shake" in my rotor.....but i "think" it may have something to do with bed-in or even the way I hit the brake. More research will come.

 

are you sure the wheels are not getting loose?

 

Mine were great. Stock rotors with 40k on them, Cobalt GT-R Spec VR front, stock rears, with freash Super Blue Fluid. Big thanks to Andie on the choice of pads, which grabbed hard all weekend, and had no signs of fading.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WhosITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I will take some ppl advice to re-bed the pad or resurface the rotor since they're brand new.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just remember that resurfacing the rotor will make them even more susceptible to shudder, so don't be surprised if it comes back very quickly at your next track event.

 

Yeah- Chad cooked my brakes!!! Thanks to Andy for getting me hooked up and ready for my next session