OK,

I really want to drop my accord and it seems the eibach sportlines don't give an even drop (rear higher than back).. which is pretty ghetto.

soooo, i have decided to get coilovers.

Now from what I can see ground controls will run me up to a bit over $600 including quality shocks, so for a few hundred more I could get "real" coilovers instead of just sleeves.

Can those with tein/apex/etc.. real coilovers pls share experiences/pricing so that I can decide which to go with?

THanks!!

 

rear higher than the back? that's real ghetto...oh my.. jk
ground control and skunk2 cost almost as much..withouth the shocks too.
if you really want the complete package-->eibach, tein

 

BaG it! JK but if you do want a full threaded set up go tein. and if you want to BaG it hit me up

 

Don't bag it. I have GC's with KYB AGX Shox. The thing I love about GC is that you can get custom spring rates. I got 450 up front and 375 in the back.

 

Hey i got Tanabe sustec pro SS full coiovers they great also selling parting out the car .

 

Tein SS's will be the best bet for your money...if you look in the right places you can find them for roughly 870ish shipped!

 

how are the TEIN Basic coilovers? no damping adjustments.. wonder how the ride is with those? this is a daily driver, no track use.. so i would imagine these would be sufficient for my needs?

 

why are even performance springs "ghetto"? You do realize that the front is higher than rear when stock right?

 

yes i realize that stockwise the front is higher than the back, however, when buying lowering springs i'd think that the companies would compensate for this and make it so that the drop is even or even have the front a bit lower.

nothing looks worse than a car where the back is lower than the front

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bacid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes i realize that stockwise the front is higher than the back, however, when buying lowering springs i'd think that the companies would compensate for this and make it so that the drop is even or even have the front a bit lower.

nothing looks worse than a car where the back is lower than the front</TD></TR></TABLE>

you have to understand the geometry of the car first. my car lays even on the ground. the frame rails lay flat on the ground when the cylie's are empty. when you look at the front compared to the rear. the rear still looks lower. its the way the cars are set up. you have to turn the front so it will always be higher. wheel gap doesnt have anything to do with how level the car is. wheel gap is purely cosmetic.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bagged93accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you have to understand the geometry of the car first. my car lays even on the ground. the frame rails lay flat on the ground when the cylie's are empty. when you look at the front compared to the rear. the rear still looks lower. its the way the cars are set up. you have to turn the front so it will always be higher. wheel gap doesnt have anything to do with how level the car is. wheel gap is purely cosmetic.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That may be true. However, it still doesn't fix the problem. Duhh. The fix is.. to get coilovers and make the front "look" lower than the rear by adjusting it enough so that the gap up front is lesser than the gap in the rear.

 

get coilovers....bags are dope too...a little pricey but yeah!
i'd suggest skunk2s if you dont mind the stiff springs, if you wanna pay a little more, like they say, getting the GC's you can request a certain spring rate....

i did this to my 2000 civic, i had the front tucked and the rear with about an inch gap between the tire/fender..

 

if you don't want to spend alot Number1 coil-overs are not too bad of a buy, i paid 120 for my set (91 accord sedan) and the ride is surprisingly smooth with plenty of response in the twisties. they are 0-4" drop with a single clamp lock perch witch makes it easer to adjust ride hight (can be done with 1 hand verse 2 hands with duel perch design) they use 3 centering screws to make sure the spring is centered on the strut unlike GC or some more expensive brands. i ran them on my stock tokico struts and was very happy with the ride i will say the with a extreme drop like 2.5-4 you should use a after-market strut because the stock one bottomed out quite a bit, i am gonna try a set of skunk2's on KYB AGX adjustable as soon as my new car is out of the shop i will tell you how they ride when i get the car back...hope this help

 

An aftermarket shock will crap out on you as well with that dramatic of a drop.

 

yep..if you just want the look that get H&R's spring..they ride even.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Escobar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That may be true. However, it still doesn't fix the problem. Duhh. The fix is.. to get coilovers and make the front "look" lower than the rear by adjusting it enough so that the gap up front is lesser than the gap in the rear. </TD></TR></TABLE>

here's my point... the car is supposed to be lower in the rear. the car sits level when it is slightly lower in the rear. chekc your body lines to see. if you are looking for cosmetic than that is a different story. for a level car you will want your rear to always be a little lower.

 

i think go wid the skunk 2 coil over system wid the tokico 5 way adjustable illuminas

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AcCorDH22ARaCeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think go wid the skunk 2 coil over system wid the tokico 5 way adjustable illuminas</TD></TR></TABLE>

my first suspension ahh the good old days...