I have DRAG III piping and it sucks. Under high boost the pipes, especially the pipes between the turbo and the intercooler, always begin to seperate! What are solutions to prevent this? I was thinking of sanding the the chrome where the couplings go over?
HELP

 

weld that bitch!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smallttocs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">weld that bitch! </TD></TR></TABLE>

there is a good answer, sanding down the end will work decent but nothing like welding

 

double up on clamps?

 

I had this problem for awhile. Here is three solutions that will work very well:

1. Weld a lip, or bead around the ends of the pipes. Its give the coupler and hose clamp something to resist against, instead of just using friction and pressure of the normal surface of the pipe.

2. T-bolts clamps. These will make a huge difference. You can put a more even pressure distribution around the pipe, therefore keeping the piping on better. Also, you can generate more pressure onto the piping with the t-bolt clamps over the conventional hose clamp since they are made alot stronger.

3. Use super long piece of coupler so you can double clamp with t-bolt clamps. You'll have more surface pressure distribution with two clamps, and the longer coupler.

Check out mcmaster-carr for t-bolt clamps and nitrile coupling.

http://www.mcmaster.com/

Type "196" in the seach catagory for the coupling. Type "hose clamps" in the search for t-bolt clamps. You wont find cheaper prices on these two items anywhere else.

 

T-bolt clamps makes a huge difference........

 

If you're done modifying your setup, and just want them to stay put, Hairspray the piping, then slide the silicone coupler on. When the hairspray dries, it's harder to separate then a 10 year old waterneck!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiR Kid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you're done modifying your setup, and just want them to stay put, Hairspray the piping, then slide the silicone coupler on. When the hairspray dries, it's harder to separate then a 10 year old waterneck! </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's funny, I was actually thinking of using some 3M residue but was not sure how difficult it would be to seperate when i want to take out the piping. Welding was a solution that I had, and so was the T-Bolt clamps but I never knew they made that much of a difference!
Are T-Bolt clamps the same clamps that Turbonetics sell?
Also, what's the difference between T-Bolt clamps and Vband-Clamps? Aren't they the same?

 

Damn.....that mcmaster.com has some nice stuff. I was looking at those High-Torque Worm-Drive Hose Clamps, and the T-Bolt Hose Clamps.
Which do yall think?

 

try hondabond on the pipe ends. Let it dry, then put the coupler on.

 

On one kit I did, I didn't have access to welder or a beading machine so I just used self tapping screws on either side of the charge piping near the end and it's as good as welding a small bead on the same place.

 

i used the orange silicone stuff that they have at autozone. holds up good. i think its called hi tempature silicone. when i tried taking it off it was tough but it came off eventually.

 

This just bought a bunch of constant torque clamps for my aluminum piping, otherwise I would've gotten T bolts and spring loaded T bolt clamps. This place has excellent prices-

http://www.partssystems.com/sh...id=28

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted hybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had this problem for awhile. Here is three solutions that will work very well:

1. Weld a lip, or bead around the ends of the pipes. Its give the coupler and hose clamp something to resist against, instead of just using friction and pressure of the normal surface of the pipe.

2. T-bolts clamps. These will make a huge difference. You can put a more even pressure distribution around the pipe, therefore keeping the piping on better. Also, you can generate more pressure onto the piping with the t-bolt clamps over the conventional hose clamp since they are made alot stronger.

3. Use super long piece of coupler so you can double clamp with t-bolt clamps. You'll have more surface pressure distribution with two clamps, and the longer coupler.

Check out mcmaster-carr for t-bolt clamps and nitrile coupling.

http://www.mcmaster.com/

Type "196" in the seach catagory for the coupling. Type "hose clamps" in the search for t-bolt clamps. You wont find cheaper prices on these two items anywhere else.
</TD></TR></TABLE>


Which hoses are the best? the nitrile ones, buna n, silicone coolant, or silicone rubber ones?

 

Get motor mount inserts too. When your engine rocks back & forth under load, that'll put a lot of stress on the pipe couplers.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CheezeFrog &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get motor mount inserts too. When your engine rocks back & forth under load, that'll put a lot of stress on the pipe couplers.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah your right. I've had the Energy suspension polturethane inserts since my first clutch replacement! I'm gonna look into welding small beeds, and getting better hose clamps. Like someone asked before me, which hoses are the best? I was wondering this myself. Also can anyone post a pic of welding beeds on the pipe just so i can see what you guys are talking about exactly!
Thank's for the great info guys!

 

Nitrile, then silicone.

 

JB weld it!!!!! solves mostly everything!

 

if you cant afford to weld a bead on the pipe, u shoulda take a pair of vice grips and bend a lip at the ends of the pipes. doesn't look very good, but it will be covered by the coupler and no one but you will know.

 

My friend gave me a good idea. He went to a Van's skate park and bought a strip of the sand paper like stuff they stick onto skateboards so your shoes will grip. I think it's gonna work out pretty well. I will also get a set of T-Bolt clamps. At those prces I might as well!

 

I would definitely weld a lip at the end of each pipe!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Agtronic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would definitely weld a lip at the end of each pipe! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Bead welding holds up well, but for those of you without a welder, JB weld nipples around the end of the pipe, works just as well. Of course you should always try to minimize couplings whenever possible by welding joints together.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VaporTrail &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bead welding holds up well, but for those of you without a welder, JB weld nipples around the end of the pipe, works just as well. Of course you should always try to minimize couplings whenever possible by welding joints together.</TD></TR></TABLE>

True, I always forget that. I used to always get mad when people told me "just weld it" before I bought a welder ...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VaporTrail &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Bead welding holds up well, but for those of you without a welder, JB weld nipples around the end of the pipe, works just as well. Of course you should always try to minimize couplings whenever possible by welding joints together.</TD></TR></TABLE>

And make sure to minizmize the gap between the two pipes as much as possible if using a coupler..

 

I use these trick weld-on intercooler connectors, never even had a connector try and blow apart!