Best specs for a precision alignment
I was going to go take my car in for a presion four wheel alignment and was wondering if anyone here had some spec that have been proven to be the best. any help would be greatly helpfull
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid Beast »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cause i was going to go out for autocross </TD></TR></TABLE>
Which means you havent gone yet
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and i need the proper alignment to do better
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You need the proper driving skills to do better
Which means you havent gone yet
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and i need the proper alignment to do better
</TD></TR></TABLE>You need the proper driving skills to do better
well considering my steering wheel is tilted to the right about 30 degrees when im going straight i need it anyways and might as well do it right. So is their a reason why you choose too be a cocky mod instead of helping me?
Then fix it to factory spec. You wont notice a difference if you are a novice level driver. And if you do, it wont be benefiting you any.
Besides the only adjustment to be made on your car is toe. And excessive toe will only serve to eat up your tires on the street.
If your steering wheel is tilted that much then something is bent or busted and you have bigger problems on your hands. Alignment doesnt just "get out of whack"
RJ
Besides the only adjustment to be made on your car is toe. And excessive toe will only serve to eat up your tires on the street.
If your steering wheel is tilted that much then something is bent or busted and you have bigger problems on your hands. Alignment doesnt just "get out of whack"
RJ
since you have no camber adjustability, you should set it to factory spec. Some people may say a little toe out helps turn it, if you can talk your alignment tech into giving you a /32 of out then go for it.
if you had camber adjustability, you would want max negative in the front, and close to 0 in the rear.
if you had camber adjustability, you would want max negative in the front, and close to 0 in the rear.
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^ what he said. If you're a total noob, leave it stock for now. Like he said, most Civics only have adjustable toe and adding more toe will eat street tires up. Once you've been out a few times, then ask again.
ps - we're not trying to be dicks - driving a stock car really is fastest way to learn to drive.
ps - we're not trying to be dicks - driving a stock car really is fastest way to learn to drive.
There are no best overall specs. Each car/driver combo is different. Can you guys tell him and me a good starting point, better than stock for road racing. A good place to start before breaking out the pyrometer is what I was hoping for in this thread.
If you are a novice you ought to learn how to drive otherwise no amount of suspension setup is going to make you faster. Just more inconsistent.
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From: One by one, the penguins steal my sanity.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PhucNguyen57 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can you guys tell him and me a good starting point, better than stock for road racing. A good place to start before breaking out the pyrometer is what I was hoping for in this thread. </TD></TR></TABLE>
As noted, the only thing adjustable on your cars is toe. Changing it will not make you faster at this point in your driving career. Howver, changing your toe will eat tires on the street faster than normal.
As noted, the only thing adjustable on your cars is toe. Changing it will not make you faster at this point in your driving career. Howver, changing your toe will eat tires on the street faster than normal.
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