I just bought some new Kosei K1's for my Acura from Tire Rack. The lug nuts they sent me fit fine, the width and length of the threading is correct. However, OEM from Acura the lug is a 19mm nut outside. The lugs Tire Rack sent me have a 17mm nut. I called Tire Rack thinking they could just send me some new lugs with a 19mm nut size, but the rep insisted that the bolt size was too big for the Kosei and I'd have fitment problems. Does this rep know what she's talking about? I've never thought that the outside nut size would make any difference to lug fitment unless it didn't fit in the holes on the wheel (which the Kosei doesn't have any).

By the way, I put the Kosei's on last night using the lugs from my BBS wheels which have the exact same thread and length but have the outside nut size of 19mm. Don't seem to have a problem with fitment.

While it may not seem like that big of a deal, this means I'd have to go out and buy a new impact socket for 17mm, buy a socket for the torque wrench, and keep a breaker bar with another 17mm in the trunk in case I get a flat. Plus, I still need to carry a 19mm wrench because the spare takes that.

 

You dont already have 17mm sockets?

Sucks if you have to change brake rotors.....

 

When I bought my SSR's from them, they sent me a pack of odd-sized lugnuts too. I think it's just what they have. As long as the thread size and pitch is right I guess there's really nothing "wrong" with them. I believe they also sent some sort of adapter for them. I just threw it in a junk box without paying much attention.

 

I received those lugnuts as well from Tire Rack.

I believe they just seat better with the Kosei's compared to OEM lugs.

There is no need to change the studs though.

I used the 17's they gave me up front and then OEM's in the rear because I have extended wheel studs.

good luck,

aj

 

Length and Taper are the only things that matter... as long as it fits in the hole.

 

I would guess that they send the 17mm conical lugs with most everything that can use them. They'll fit more wheels, including the ones with the lugs in a hole, and there's one less item for them to stock. They probably figure a lot of folks will be replacing them with "tuner" lugs anyway.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XR4racer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Length and Taper are the only things that matter... as long as it fits in the hole.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yours tapers? How odd.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You dont already have 17mm sockets?

Sucks if you have to change brake rotors.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not a spare to keep in the car, nor do I have a 17mm impact, nor actually one that'll fit the torque wrench. Perhaps I need more tools, but new wheels shouldn't push that purchase.

From what it sounds like, I should be fine using the larger nut size. Tire Rack just threw me off because they're supposed to be the experts. Logically, though, it made no sense to me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Geezer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They probably figure a lot of folks will be replacing them with "tuner" lugs anyway. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Tuner lugs! That's just damn funny. Do they light up too? I know what you'e talking about, I just can't see the point.

 

Andy- the lug nuts for my Koseis also use a 17mm socket which does not fit the 4 way wrench I keep in the car so have an extra breaker bar and a new 17mm socket that I keep in the car in the summer.

As long as the taper on the lug nut matches the wheel- 60 degrees on a Kosei- and the thread size matches the stud, you will be fine. You should not use the OEM lug nuts on the Koseis since the OEM is a round seat where the Koseis are 60 deg taper.

Devin

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You dont already have 17mm sockets?

Sucks if you have to change brake rotors.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Or oil.

 

buy one (1) 17mm impact socket. your torque wrench should have a 1/2" drive, same as your impact wrench. then leave the socket and torque wrench in your trunk with your normal spare tire tools. i don't even use an impact gun on my wheels anymore, and since the torque wrench is craftsman i don't mind using it to break the lugs free. if i break the wrench, i take it back to sears.

nate

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solo-x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">buy one (1) 17mm impact socket. your torque wrench should have a 1/2" drive, same as your impact wrench. then leave the socket and torque wrench in your trunk with your normal spare tire tools. i don't even use an impact gun on my wheels anymore, and since the torque wrench is craftsman i don't mind using it to break the lugs free. if i break the wrench, i take it back to sears.

nate</TD></TR></TABLE>

You do realize that Sears only has a 90-day warranty of torque wrenches right ???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JeffS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You do realize that Sears only has a 90-day warranty of torque wrenches right ???</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I was going to add that too. Sears only lifetime warantees their hand tools that don't have moving parts.

 

As long as you keep the sears torque wrench looking brand new and keep all the instructions and packaging.. you should be ok with returning it. At least I was- no questions asked. The thing just started free spinning one day, ...and yes I stored it properly per instructions. Snap-on next time.

I went for the $0.50 conical (tapered) 19mm lugnuts from pepboys rather than pay for the tuner nuts. I can't see the point in those things either. If you're dead set on 19mm nuts just go down to pepboys and grab some, they should work fine. The lady on the phone was probably worried that your socket walls would be too thick and it wouldnt fit without hitting the wheel.

 

hmm.... i've never had a problem returning ratchets that failed, i assumed it was the same for torque wrenches. eh, oh well. there cheap enough.

nate

 

I just installed my K1s last night and had to specially request open lug nuts due to my extremely long lug studs. They were the same size as my OE Honda nuts so they must have been 19s. Using my impact socket, I noticed there was darned little extra room around the socket and one could pretty easily mar the wheel finish.

A while back there was a thread about needing to remove the paint from the lug nut seating taper on the wheel or they could loosen. Anyone remember the specifics (I could do the search but it is a passing thought).

Lee

 

Lee,

The problem was the lug nuts were loosening. I guess people thought it was due to the paint on the wheel not allowing the lugnut to grip well. I have kept a torque wrench in my car and check them whenever I get gas. Other than the first time having some very minor adjustments I have had no movement. I guess removing the paint is one of those things to try IF you have problems with the lug nuts backing off.

 

Thanks, I'm pretty hardcore on regular torquing. I know a lot of people with Hondas had problems when the K1s first came out with the nuts jamming and breaking off lug studs (Mr. Bookler if I recall? and others). At the time most were saying it was because of some aluminum nuts they were providing with the wheels. Don't know it that was the real reason or just a scapegoat. Either way, I have some now and will try to keep on steel nuts regularly torqued.

 

Length and Taper are the only things that matter... as long as it fits in the hole.

Yours tapers? How odd.

OMFG, LMAO

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Lee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
A while back there was a thread about needing to remove the paint from the lug nut seating taper on the wheel or they could loosen. Anyone remember the specifics (I could do the search but it is a passing thought).

Lee</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had heard that a number of people were using the acorn shaped OEM lugs with these and that's really why they were having problems. Mine have been on for about 24 hours now, I'll be checking the nuts this evening.

Just as an update, a tech guy from Tire Rack on team.net saw my post, investigated the issue and shipped me out some new lugs. After more examination of the K1, they've also decided to update their computer for Honda fitments to use the OEM size lug.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shmeek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I had heard that a number of people were using the acorn shaped OEM lugs with these and that's really why they were having problems. Mine have been on for about 24 hours now, I'll be checking the nuts this evening.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've heard the stock rouded seats described as "bulge" while the 60 degree angle seats are called "taper" or "conical." If you guys know of any other names for the seats post em up, it may help avoid confusion for somebody?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shmeek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Just as an update, a tech guy from Tire Rack on team.net saw my post, investigated the issue and shipped me out some new lugs. After more examination of the K1, they've also decided to update their computer for Honda fitments to use the OEM size lug.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The power of HT is demonstrated once again.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I've heard the stock rouded seats described as "bulge" while the 60 degree angle seats are called "taper" or "conical." If you guys know of any other names for the seats post em up, it may help avoid confusion for somebody?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had a friend with an Integra and K1s attend my Putnam lapping day several years ago. He had the aluminum proper taper/cone lug nuts (blue anodized parts that were supplied by TR) and torqued them several times during the day. When he went to change back to street tires, all four LF nuts froze and broke his studs. We had to haul it home on a trailer and put a new hub in the car before he could drive home to New Hampshire. LF is the corner that gets the most loading but we figured the aluminum and steel was probably the culprit although Porsche has done it for years. Maybe that and the paint in the seats all contributed (the wheels were brand new). Tire Rack was responsive and sent all new lug nuts, don't recall if they chipped in on the hub but he was satisfied with their reaction.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=429939 - Lugnuts backing out

My lugnuts don't back out anymore because I took off the paint after numerous retorquing.