A.C.T. 's new 8.5 flywheel... too light.
purchasing a clutch within the next week...
figure i might as well swap out the flywheel.
looking at the act 8.5 pound steeeeeel flywheel
just wondering if anyone has this..
and experienced any draw backs to such a light-weight flywheel
p.s. ive searched about every thread for the past 2 days
thanks a bunch
figure i might as well swap out the flywheel.looking at the act 8.5 pound steeeeeel flywheel
just wondering if anyone has this..
and experienced any draw backs to such a light-weight flywheel
p.s. ive searched about every thread for the past 2 days
thanks a bunch
yes.. im sure there are lighter ones...
but ive read so much on starter issues with other flywheels...
and people having to hold thier revs at stoplights to avoid stalling...
this is my daily driver.... we dont need no stinking stalling-n-starter problems!
anyone else
but ive read so much on starter issues with other flywheels...
and people having to hold thier revs at stoplights to avoid stalling...
this is my daily driver.... we dont need no stinking stalling-n-starter problems!
anyone else
I have a 7 lb CM with no starter or stalling issues. I think the people with stalling problems have lightweight internals and/or tuning issues.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hugh Bowie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes.. im sure there are lighter ones...
but ive read so much on starter issues with other flywheels...
and people having to hold thier revs at stoplights to avoid stalling...
this is my daily driver.... we dont need no stinking stalling-n-starter problems!
anyone else</TD></TR></TABLE>
you should not have any starting/stalling problems due to flywheel, unless its defective. running 8.5lbs AASCO here with unsprung clutch. The only thing, you have to raise rpm before letting out the clutch and/or engage a little faster. Once I got used to it, it felt stock again. its worth the investment, but only if you're taking out the transmission.
but ive read so much on starter issues with other flywheels...
and people having to hold thier revs at stoplights to avoid stalling...
this is my daily driver.... we dont need no stinking stalling-n-starter problems!
anyone else</TD></TR></TABLE>
you should not have any starting/stalling problems due to flywheel, unless its defective. running 8.5lbs AASCO here with unsprung clutch. The only thing, you have to raise rpm before letting out the clutch and/or engage a little faster. Once I got used to it, it felt stock again. its worth the investment, but only if you're taking out the transmission.
well.......i just got my act hdss clutch kit and act prolite flywheel and i love it.
im in my break in mode for another 450miles.
havent revved past 3000rpm so i havent push to see how nice the flywheel is, but the clutch is smooth and its like near stock pedal feel.
im in my break in mode for another 450miles.
havent revved past 3000rpm so i havent push to see how nice the flywheel is, but the clutch is smooth and its like near stock pedal feel.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SurferX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I use an 8.75lb flywheel and it's just fine. Actually I barely noticed it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you mean its not worth the 300 bucks?
or its so smoooooth you dont notice it cause it feels like stock?
you mean its not worth the 300 bucks?
or its so smoooooth you dont notice it cause it feels like stock?
It's smooth enough when starting from a stop. Maybe I rev slightly higher when starting but it's not noticable and just becomes habit. It's worth it if you're getting your clutch changed and the tranny is going to be off already.
My SC GSR stalls with the Prolite... depress the clutch above 1500rpm while coming to a stop and 3 out of 5 times the rpm will drop faster than the car can compensate(even after adjusting the idle up). Other people running NA don't seem to have the problem... I might swap the flywheel with my OE ITR's and see what happens... It's a damn fine peice though... no starter problems what so ever...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Zeus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My SC GSR stalls with the Prolite... </TD></TR></TABLE>
Obviously there's something else wrong with your car.
I have a GSR with a ACT HD/SS and the Comptech 6.75 # fly and I NEVER have any stalling problems. I've never had any problems with it at all. I love it. I would HIGHLY recommend it to anyone. The lighter the better!
Obviously there's something else wrong with your car.
I have a GSR with a ACT HD/SS and the Comptech 6.75 # fly and I NEVER have any stalling problems. I've never had any problems with it at all. I love it. I would HIGHLY recommend it to anyone. The lighter the better!
I recently installed a Toda fly 8-9lbs with an ACT street disc/HD pp and I noticed the rpms drop a little when I come to a stop but they raise back to idle after a second or two.
Motor revs quicker, allows me more control on throttle (ie lifting/accelerating) some people said you cant launch with these things but my 60's are the same as before the fly/clutch.
If its time for a new clutch....drop in a fly at the same time but I wouldnt go out of my way to put in just a flywheel. But if the tranny was coming out I would like to raise the FD at the same time too but doing all three at the same time will be $$$ in parts
but would be worth the acceleration gained.
Clutch + Fly + 4.9 FD =
Motor revs quicker, allows me more control on throttle (ie lifting/accelerating) some people said you cant launch with these things but my 60's are the same as before the fly/clutch.
If its time for a new clutch....drop in a fly at the same time but I wouldnt go out of my way to put in just a flywheel. But if the tranny was coming out I would like to raise the FD at the same time too but doing all three at the same time will be $$$ in parts
but would be worth the acceleration gained. Clutch + Fly + 4.9 FD =
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by reefer_bob »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Obviously there's something else wrong with your car.
I have a GSR with a ACT HD/SS and the Comptech 6.75 # fly and I NEVER have any stalling problems. I've never had any problems with it at all. I love it. I would HIGHLY recommend it to anyone. The lighter the better!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Reefer boy, no problem before flywheel, problem after flywheel with two separate fuel and ignition systems... what conclusion is left? By the way, comparing your car to mine is apples and watermelons...
I have a GSR with a ACT HD/SS and the Comptech 6.75 # fly and I NEVER have any stalling problems. I've never had any problems with it at all. I love it. I would HIGHLY recommend it to anyone. The lighter the better!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Reefer boy, no problem before flywheel, problem after flywheel with two separate fuel and ignition systems... what conclusion is left? By the way, comparing your car to mine is apples and watermelons...
8.5 is borderline for teh street, I for one am not a believer in super light flywheels and high FD's, but whatever floats your boat. My firsthand experience with flywheels that are too light is that they make you lose your top end slightly (example 1 mile drag race, freeway top speed etc). This has been proven time and time again by mile racers here in NYC.
I just got my 7lb comptech installed, and its NOT too light. Although I've only driven it about 2 miles so far(I'm stuck at work), it revs quick, and it didnt come close to stalling when I let the revs drop.
light enought for me, i'm only running JUN extra light one, 4.2 kg, around 9.2 lb , want to try something lighter , but i thought it rev faster also drop faster
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yeer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well.......i just got my act hdss clutch kit and act prolite flywheel and i love it.
im in my break in mode for another 450miles.
havent revved past 3000rpm so i havent push to see how nice the flywheel is, but the clutch is smooth and its like near stock pedal feel.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'm getting my stuff put in now...break in mode sucks
im in my break in mode for another 450miles.
havent revved past 3000rpm so i havent push to see how nice the flywheel is, but the clutch is smooth and its like near stock pedal feel.
</TD></TR></TABLE>i'm getting my stuff put in now...break in mode sucks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H-PIMP »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">8.5 is borderline for teh street, I for one am not a believer in super light flywheels and high FD's, but whatever floats your boat. My firsthand experience with flywheels that are too light is that they make you lose your top end slightly (example 1 mile drag race, freeway top speed etc). This has been proven time and time again by mile racers here in NYC.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't see how that makes any sense. Taking load off the motor = loosing top end power? The dyno sure doesn't show that. I would question your first-hand experience as I have an 8.75lb flywheel on my car and have run with it on the dyno as well as the track and did not experience any faults with it compared to how my car performed in those conditions with the stock flywheel. I don't see how street racers can be considered any source of reliable information on car tuning. RealTime Racing doesn't think it loses top end power for them on the road course, as they use a 7lb flywheel on the Integras. Maybe they should seek advice from the all-knowing NYC street racer L33T y0!
I don't see how that makes any sense. Taking load off the motor = loosing top end power? The dyno sure doesn't show that. I would question your first-hand experience as I have an 8.75lb flywheel on my car and have run with it on the dyno as well as the track and did not experience any faults with it compared to how my car performed in those conditions with the stock flywheel. I don't see how street racers can be considered any source of reliable information on car tuning. RealTime Racing doesn't think it loses top end power for them on the road course, as they use a 7lb flywheel on the Integras. Maybe they should seek advice from the all-knowing NYC street racer L33T y0!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SurferX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I don't see how that makes any sense. Taking load off the motor = loosing top end power? The dyno sure doesn't show that. I would question your first-hand experience as I have an 8.75lb flywheel on my car and have run with it on the dyno as well as the track and did not experience any faults with it compared to how my car performed in those conditions with the stock flywheel. I don't see how street racers can be considered any source of reliable information on car tuning. RealTime Racing doesn't think it loses top end power for them on the road course, as they use a 7lb flywheel on the Integras. Maybe they should seek advice from the all-knowing NYC street racer L33T y0! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Newsflash, realtime racing never sees top speed on ANY roadcourse, secondly the dyno isn't moving 2600 lbs of mass down a 1 mile stretch of freeway. Credible sources are Robert Ramirez well known engine builder/street racer here in NY. When you can make 240 whp B20's together with your own hands and have tons of highspeed run experience in a Honda, then you can comment. Until then keep it buttoned sausage ****. Flywheels that are too light are good for road racing but not all out top speed types of racing.
I don't see how that makes any sense. Taking load off the motor = loosing top end power? The dyno sure doesn't show that. I would question your first-hand experience as I have an 8.75lb flywheel on my car and have run with it on the dyno as well as the track and did not experience any faults with it compared to how my car performed in those conditions with the stock flywheel. I don't see how street racers can be considered any source of reliable information on car tuning. RealTime Racing doesn't think it loses top end power for them on the road course, as they use a 7lb flywheel on the Integras. Maybe they should seek advice from the all-knowing NYC street racer L33T y0! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Newsflash, realtime racing never sees top speed on ANY roadcourse, secondly the dyno isn't moving 2600 lbs of mass down a 1 mile stretch of freeway. Credible sources are Robert Ramirez well known engine builder/street racer here in NY. When you can make 240 whp B20's together with your own hands and have tons of highspeed run experience in a Honda, then you can comment. Until then keep it buttoned sausage ****. Flywheels that are too light are good for road racing but not all out top speed types of racing.


