Hey-

I am trying to make a line out of earls hose... braided stainless... whatever. But I want to replace the stock hard line, and soft line with a flexible braided stainless steel line.

here is a pic to illustrate what i am talking about



What are the thread pitches on those lines... I need th eone on the slave cylinder, and off the hard line on the inside of the bay.

know what i mean? can u help me out? Is this something that can be done with publically available fittings and pieces?

 

You could just buy one from Fastline Performance, or I think Heel-Toe Auto has them for less than the MSRP of a whopping $29 shipped.

http://www.fastlineperformance.com

http://www.fastlineperformance.com/links.htm - dealer links where HTA is listed as an authorized dealer

 

Awesome link...


I was curios to replace the hard line going into the slave cylinder, do you know if thats possible? it conflicts with my fileter and piping for my turbo.

 

You can cut it off where you want, flare it out with a flare tool, and then run a longer flex line.

 

Or, you can just bend the hard line a little if you don't have very far to go.

 

why cant i just get a flex line from the first hard line, on the body of the car... and run the flex line right to the slave cylinder? do you know the size of the fitting on the slave cylinder?

 

I'm not sure how hard it is to remove all the hard line plumbing. That's all.

Thread is M10 x 1.00 or 1.25. I'm not sure which, but I'm definitely leaning towards 1.00 thread pitch b/c none of the M10x1.25 bolts I have will thread into the spare slave cylinders I have. Also, just by looking at it, the thread pitch is very fine.

 

you have been very helpful...

what about the other side, the hard line side... what size fitting do i need for that?

what size braided line should i use for the line? bout 4an? 3an?


edit: i dont want to replace all the hard lines with flex line... only the portion from this poiint on the body of the car, near the tranny mount (red arrow) to the slave cylinder





[Modified by B18EG6, 12:42 AM 4/8/2003]

 

The other side is a M12x1.00.

Use -3AN.

Hose
(x1) EAR-610003 [Speed-flex -3AN hose] $27.95

Hose-ends
(x1) EAR-640903 [Speed Seal (Straight) -3AN Hose-end -to- Female M10x1.00 Convex output] $12.69 b/o (I'm not sure about this one tho...you might wanna just get regular hose-ends and adapters to the M12x1.00 and M10x1.00)
OR
(x2) EAR-600193 [Speed Seal (Straight) -3AN Hose-end] $15.69/each b/o
OR
(x1) EAR-600193 [Speed Seal (Straight) -3AN Hose-end] $15.69/each b/o
(x1) EAR-604593 [Speed Seal (45 deg) -3AN Hose-end] $38.39 b/o
You might need a 45 degree bend at the slave cylinder to avoid exceeding the maximum bend radius of 1.5" for the Speed-flex hose

Fitting Adapters: -3AN to M10x1.00 & -3AN to M12x1.00
(x1) EAR-989534 [-3AN to M10x1.00 Female Adapter Fitting] $4.39
OR
(x1) EAR-989537 [-3AN to M10x1.00 Female (Honda inverted flare)] $4.69 b/o

I can't find the stupid M12x1.00 adapter fittings.

All part numbers are summit derivatives b/c that's where I get my Earl's stuff. Just copy and paste.

 

Wow couldnt have asked for more...

I.F. stands for inverted flare right?

since summit appeared to be on back order, i checked out amstreetrod... if you dont mind visiting amstreetrod.com and seeing if the part numbers are right, i would love that.


hose
600003 3an speed flex hose $3.16/ft


hose ends
(1) 600103 3an straight speed flex hose end $6.77 each
(1) 604603 3an 45 degree non adjustable tube speed flex hose end $10.81 each


fitting adapters
which ones of these do i need?

592032 3 AN to 10mm x1.0 Steel $9.57 each
592035 3 AN to 10mm x1.25 I.F.* Steel $9.57 each

989534 3 AN to Fem. 10mm x 1.0 $4.66 each
989535 3 AN to Fem. 10mm x 1.25 $4.66 each
989545 3 AN to Fem. 10mm x 1.0 I.F.* $4.66 each
989536 3 AN to Fem. 10mm x 1.25 I.F.* $4.66 each

989537 3 AN to 10mm x1.0 I.F.* (Honda) $4.66 each

We still dont have the adapter for the other side, on the body where it is m12x1.00 huh? U sure its 12 and not 10?


Idont mind spending 15 extra bucks to make sure i get all the stuff i need...

thanks for your help

 

Your definite purchases look just fine. The only reason mine are different and more expensive is b/c I opted for the stainless steel parts instead of the regular steel.

This looks like it would be the one, but I can't guarantee it.
989537 3 AN to 10mm x1.0 I.F.* (Honda) $4.66 each

I know it's a M12 b/c I have a FLP stainless clutch line for a DC2 and known M10 and M12 bolts. M10 in one end and M12 in the other. This is assuming that Honda used the same-sized fittings for all their cars.

 

Awesome...

just to clear something up... the slave cylinder acepts a male fitting, correct? What about the other side i want.. on the body, the M12 one... is that male or female?

so i have it all right here, cept for the m12 piece?
600003 3an speed flex hose $3.16/ft
(1) 600103 3an straight speed flex hose end $6.77 each
(1) 604603 3an 45 degree non adjustable tube speed flex hose end $10.81 each
989537 3 AN to 10mm x1.0 I.F.* (Honda) $4.66 each

thanks again... dont know too many other of my friends that are up at 4 am looking at car ****.

 

Oops. That's right. Slave cylinder accepts a male fitting. You'll need a M10x1.00 (Male) to M10x1.00 (Male) union adapter, or you'll have to reuse that last bit of hard line. It is kinda nice to have that hard line and bracket if you ask me. Keeps the line from flailing around too much and possibly stripping out the slave cylinder's threads. Fine thread strips out a lot easier, especially when there's only 1/4" of thread engagement on the slave cylinder.

The M12's hard line is male (since you'll be reusing it), making your stainless line end a female.

 

Option 1: Forego hard line

In this case, you can get rid of the -3AN to M10x1.00 (Female) IF fitting. Instead, you'll get a -3AN to M10x1.00 (Male) fitting. Earl's doesn't make too much metric stuff. so I'm not sure they have such a thing. I'm not sure whether Russell, Autometer, NOS, or one of the other domestic co.'s makes that kinda stuff. I'm pretty sure Goodridge makes that kinda stuff b/c they cater mostly to the European market.

Option 2: Keep the hard line piece

If this is the case, you can get rid of the 45 degree -3AN hose-end for a -3AN straight hose-end.

 

kinda off topic, but if any of you guys need, i have a brand new oem clutch hose for sale for $35 shipped. Its the soft one, and you guy sknow how good oem quality is pix availabe upon request

 

Thanks for whoring through, but I've got like 3 myself. Definitely don't need another one in my closet.

 

wow i just got confused...

im sorry i dont get that... If I get rid of from the red arrow to the slave cylinder, all I would need for fittings is the -3an to m12x1 for the hard line side.... and a -3an to m10x1 for the slave cylinder right?

sorry for repitition... I dont have my car right here with me, i wont see it for a while.. I hafta go on memory and pictures.

it would go like this though right?

hard line on body of car
m12x1.00 fitting(female or male?)/3an
3an hose end
hose------hose
3an hose end
3an/m10x1.00 fitting (male)

^ possibly use a 45 degree fitting for this piece

edit- if i can find a 12x1 by 4 an or 6 an, can i somehow use a larger ilne or is that not a good idea?

edit2-

oooooh i found this http://store.summitracing.com/partde...art=ATM%2D2266

then i can get an adapter for 3an to 1/8" npt right?



[Modified by B18EG6, 2:06 PM 4/8/2003]

 

would this work?

 

That should work for the 12x1 end. You just need a -3AN to 1/8" NPT adapter in between.

On the 10x1 end, there's another hard line that connects to the slave cylinder. I recommend keeping the hard line unless you know it'll sterically hinder your turbo pieces.

 

I cant thank you enough for your help. I will provide pictures and maybe a how to when all of this stuff comes in.


btw you wouldnt happen to know the answer to my other question would you

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=469056

I left my helms next to my car, and I want to see if anyone knows the size to this coolant fitting right here... i got a pretty cool idea.

thanks again,
sebastian

 

Just stick a bolt in it with a known thread pitch.

I'd try 10x1.25 first. Just don't try to keep threading it in if it doesn't want to go.

 

yeh sounds easy.. im just 120 miles away from my car...getting all this **** to get for it when i go home next...

Im going home for easter, ill try it then. Thanks!!!!

 

When you get it finished post up pics!