just wondering what you guys are using.

ours comes w/ 5w-20 normally, and if i remember correctly, that's pretty thin isn't it?

not sure if i should use 5w-20 or 5w-30 (synthetic, synthetic blend, or crude)? cuz i was talking to other people w/ ep's and some were using 5w-30 to make the engine last longer or something..

also you guys using factory filter? or aftermarket?


thanks

 

donno

 

Just use 5w-30 syn. and be done with it; however, it probably doesn't really matter.

We've hashed out oil before, and the general consensus is that 5w-20 just helps Honda meet ULEV and most folks wouldn't run oil that thin on the track.

5w-30 won't hurt anything. Now, 5w50 might cause some problems, but 5w30 won't.

What makes the engine last longer is using good filters and changing oil at a regular interval.

 

what would be a good filter and 5w-30 syn of any brand motor oil? same goes for older hondas like my 93 lude vtec ?

 

Honda OEM filter and Mobil 1 oil. All you need.

 

hey eric...its me.

I went to the honda dealer today, he recommends 10-30 for your car...the first number is the viscosity, like what it runs in cold wheather...the second number is the weight which tells you what kinda protection you get in the hot weather...incase you still wanted to know

so im using 5-30, he recomends 10-30, im supposedly getting easier flow in cold conditions. He said lower viscosity give you better gas and performance...same with weight i guess...the honda hybrids use 0-20...hehe

 

The only way to go is with a honda filter because most of hondas OEM stuff is the best. Second Redline oil cannot be beat. It may be expensive but I have yet to meet someone that doesn't enjoy redline oil. Mobil 1 burns really bad when you get the revs up. And depending on how hard you drive and rev your car change your oil every 1500 to at the most 3000 miles.

 

I use 0 W 40 and also my tuner that drives with EP3´s in the german DTC-Series always use 0 W 40, also on track


With XX W 30 you can get problems with a too low oilpressure. XX W 50 or XX W 60 can also cause problems, so go for 0 W 40

 

OEM filter/oil until about 10k...
then i'll switch up to Mobil 1 5w30...
prolly stick with honda filter...

 

I am using 5w-30 for fall winter and sometimes spring. 10w-30 for summer.

5w-20 doesn't protect good from hard driving. The oil is tested for the best fuel economy with the engine not going over 3,000 RPMs. If you beat up your engine with 5w-20 you're asking for a new engine in the longrun.

K&N oil filter.

I'm still experimenting.

 

i only have 1200 miles on my car.. but anyways at 3000-3500 i will change with OEM filter and REG castrol 20w-50 oil.

"I refuse to waste my money on SYN oil"

I live in Houston, TX

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mhx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i only have 1200 miles on my car.. but anyways at 3000-3500 i will change with OEM filter and REG castrol 20w-50 oil.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

20w-50? Why not just put molasses in your crankcase. The oil passages are waaay to thin to use that weight on anything less than a pure race engine.

Just stick with 5w-30 or 10w-30 if you're really worried. Anything more is overkill.

 

On the "other boards" I've picked up that Honda uses Penzoil 5w20 and Fram oil filters (as well as one other brand).

The oil part was from a guy who works at a dealership, the filter part was from a thread where someone cut one open to expose the internal parts.

So far, Im using 5w20, but auto-xing this summer promises to be brutal, so I might go 30 in a month or two.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">originally posted by Todd00
20w-50? Why not just put molasses in your crankcase. The oil passages are waaay to thin to use that weight on anything less than a pure race engine.

Just stick with 5w-30 or 10w-30 if you're really worried. Anything more is overkill.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I run mobil 1 15-50 synthetic. The main reason why I do that is b/c up until relatively recently, that was the only over the counter brand of oil that had a REALLY good anti-wear additive package. I have yet to send off the oil for analysis, but I might go ahead and do it today since I'll be changing oil at a late 3900 miles (i usually stick to a STRICT 3000 interval).

But more recently, mobil 1 has released a 0w-40 that has a very similar additive package to the 15w-50 formula. I might switch to that after wal-mart starts carrying it. can't beat 3.50/qt for full synthetic (same oil is like 4.50-5.00 elsewhere!).

 

I'm using Castrol GTX 5w-30. If you read through the 30 some-odd page oil discussion in the Type R forum, it was Castrol and some other brand that was recommended for the best dino oils.

 

i use 5-w30, use royal purple...that **** works good!!!

 

I use Amsoil 5w-30 worked good so far

 

mobil 1 5-30 for me since i got hondata put in

 

do you know anything about oil and how it works in differ temps?

 

redline & oem filter

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mhx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you know anything about oil and how it works in differ temps?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, and I'm sure you won't see any temps that high with a street car, even at an HPDE/autox.

Everyone has a theory about oil it seems, and most are based on 1960's ideals. Both oil and motors are much better today and just don't need the thick weight to control heat and friction.

 

well the oil is not 50w.. It would only get that thick if the temps reached that hot..

I live in Houston.. And when temps reach 95-110 + massive humidty in the summer.

your right it prob wont reach 50w but im sure that that it hits between 30-40

but thats the point of the oil it wont get thick unless it hits that right temp..
and for an oil to stop working at 30w? thats not good enough..

go do some more research on how oil works because to me you dont understand what 20w-50 means.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mhx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

go do some more research on how oil works because to me you dont understand what 20w-50 means.
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I don't think you completely do, or else you wouldn't let 20w50 anywhere near the engine on your car.

Multi-weight oil is thin at low temps yet thick at high temps. So for folks in a Cold climate, that 0w30 is good because it 'acts' like thin oil at startup, but thick oil once operating temp is reached.

So not only will 20w50 be crappy for startup protection (probably *the* most crucial time to prevent wear), but it will also be total overkill at operating temp. Oil that thick won't flow well through the smaller passages nor will it protect the motor at startup like the recommended weight will.

But what do I know? You seem to have all of the answers, but once your motor starts suffering because of the thick oil you're running, don't be surprised.

BTW--Texas is not that hard on a modern day car with a proper cooling system. If it were, you'd see different recommendations for oil viscosity in the owners manual. Guess what? You don't see that because it is not 1965 nor are we running straight weight oils anymore.

You need to do a little research. But again, your motor and your car. Just don't tell others your mistake and make it sound like it's ok.

 

mobil-1 5w-30

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Originally posted by Todd00
don't think you completely do, or else you wouldn't let 20w50 anywhere near the engine on your car.

Multi-weight oil is thin at low temps yet thick at high temps. So for folks in a Cold climate, that 0w30 is good because it 'acts' like thin oil at startup, but thick oil once operating temp is reached.

So not only will 20w50 be crappy for startup protection (probably *the* most crucial time to prevent wear), but it will also be total overkill at operating temp. Oil that thick won't flow well through the smaller passages nor will it protect the motor at startup like the recommended weight will.

But what do I know? You seem to have all of the answers, but once your motor starts suffering because of the thick oil you're running, don't be surprised.

BTW--Texas is not that hard on a modern day car with a proper cooling system. If it were, you'd see different recommendations for oil viscosity in the owners manual. Guess what? You don't see that because it is not 1965 nor are we running straight weight oils anymore.

You need to do a little research. But again, your motor and your car. Just don't tell others your mistake and make it sound like it's ok.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The only place where additional wear is an issue with a XXw-50 oil is as you mentioned - during startup. But if you live in a warm climate, the 20w or 15w will typically have a pour point that is as good or only slightly worse than a 5-30. See https://dallnd6.dal.mobil.com/...ument for the pour points of the mobil1 line of products. The 15w-50's pour point is only 3 deg C worse than the 5w & the same as the 10w-30.

As you said - oil technology and engine technology are much better today - but what's wrong with a little added protection? I really doubt that anyone that is aiming to get high mileage out of their hard driven motor will be following the manufacturer's reccomendation of 5w-20.

This debate reminds me somewhat of the people that swear by honda MTF, and those who use synthetic 75w-90.

I choose the 15w-50 b/c it is specifically reccomended for high revving engines (will offer extra peace of mind for when I get the hondata ecu reflash or otherwise raise the rev limit). It is a bit of overkill for a stock motor, but 1) I see no ill effects arising from it's use. 2) the extra protection is always welcome. 3) there is no additional cost in using it v.s. lower viscocity grade synthetics.

Oh, and the comments about oil gallies not being large enough to allow 15w-50 to pass through. . . The oil gallies are plenty large, you will just have higher oil pressure due to the extra thickness of the oil. And the increase in oil pressure would hardly cause any oil pump wear issues IMO.