Ehh, i don't know what to do anymore. I ran a 14.4 w/ an intake and exhaust the other day, and i simply need more power. I'm not sure if i want to stay N/A, or go turbo. Can anyone give me a few suggestions because i know a few people in here are boosting, and i know a few are n/a. Are turbo Type R's w/ stock internals safe? I know the whole deal w/ the compression, and yes its to high to boost anything over 10 psi on stock internals, but what if i just keep the boost at 5, and beat on it..Also will that be able to get me into 12's ?? Blah, i don't know what to do. I'm open to suggestions! Thanks

 

What is your specific goal and how much do you have to spend to accomplish that goal?

 

My goal is 12's on a daily driver. I don't want to have the same problem that i had w/ my shitsubishi. I had a 2nd gen eclipse, and that thing was just a nightmare. 1/4 mile wise, i wouldn't mind high 12's or low 13's. If the price is right for a turbo setup, i will definately look into it. Also, this is my daily driver, so i don't want it breaking every other day. What do you think?

 

Either could work for high 12s/low 13s.

Either can be reliable when built right, or a nightmare if done poorly.

NA pros:
Fewer parts involved (less to screw up)
Linear power delivery
More consistant throttle response
No extra weight

NA cons:
Ultimately less powerful (your goal of high 12s will require a lot of work)

Turbo pros:
Power
Output can be altered easily by changing boost

Turbo cons:
Non-linear power delivery
Terrible off-boost throttle response
More to go wrong

Both will require extensive tuning and neither will be inexpensive.

 

You bring up good pros/cons of both scenarios. I kind of want to go turbo though. Do you have any suggestions on what kit to buy? I plan on keeping the stock internals for a while, so i'll probably be at 5 psi, no higher. What do you think that will get me in the 1/4 mile, if done properly?

 

Yeaup.

I don't think 5psi will be enough. Unless you run slicks maybe.


[Modified by disordeR, 5:17 PM 4/1/2003]

 

Then a littttttttle more boost couldn't hurt!

 

just go with N/A man, since u want it safe, and daily drive, and u want 12 sec...

i hardly see anyone with turbo running stock internal....

 

Ehhhhh, but i miss boost . I'll get some prices on both setups and see which will be more convenient. That 402 whp turbo type r was looking INSANE! Thanks for the suggestion though

 

How much do you have to spend?

 

what about a JRSC? More power than NA, less involved install.

 

just about the biggest factor.

 

I hardly see any 12 second NA Integras with stock internals either.

If you really want to go turbo, go for it. My only advice is to remember that you can always take more time to save up for what you really want.

 

Boosting on stock internals+"beating" on it=blown motor

To me it sounds like you want to just slap on some quick power and really don't want to spend money on the dyno tuning. If tuned properly, you can have a reliable boosted R, but if you plan to cut corners (dyno time) then expect the worst.

 

I would definately get it tuned. I just want to have a reliable boosted ITR running stock internals. Possible?

 

Yes, but it won't stay that way for long once you want to turn up the boost for more power.

 

It depends on how much you have to spend.

Speaking of that, you've failed to answer that question numerous times.

 

I wish more people on this board would understand this!

 

I have about $4,000 to spend. . .

 

OK, let's see...

A turbo kit goes for what, $3,500 or so, right? That means that if you can install the kit yourself you're left with about $500. That $500 is probably just enough to cover tuning and maybe a miscellaneous extra part you might need.

Or you could buy some big cams (Bs, Cs, or IIIs), associated valvetrain components, some headwork, CTR pistons, a custom header, and a Hondata ECU, plus tuning.

 

Just remember the compression ratio issue... If you want something RELIABLE you are gonna want lower compression pistons for a turbocharged motor... Same kind of story with the N/A setup, although an ITR has fairly decent compression ratio numbers, you are gonna lose a LOT of that when you put in big cams (toda C's, JunIII's...) My choice would be going N/A, especially on an ITR... In my opinion, I think it is wrong to go forced induction on an ITR, they are built all motor, and they should stay that way! (again, opinion only)

 

I do, but not for long. But I did make good power with stock internals I'm just looking to go wild now though...

 

To be honest I dont think 4,000 is going to get the job done N/A, its going to take a bit more to do the bottom end and some head work. My friend just got his R motor fully built bottom and top for N/A and it was around 5,000.

 

I think a more important question might be how fast do you want the car to trap? You can run 12's on slicks with 105mph traps or run the same time on street tires trapping 110mph. Even though the times are the same one car is significantly faster. Just depends if you are going to be drag racing alot.

 

If you want to run some fmu and just some boost, you still won't be rolling for ~ $4000, not even N/A setup as mentioned above. Expect to spend $6000-8000 if starting from scratch. You could save hundreds if shopping around, but.. you have to expect to spend much more than $4000 (exception - junkyard setup and luck of getting the right parts and the right shop to put it together).


Lets say average Turbo kit $2800-3000
Exhaust ($600)
Cat or Testpipe ($75-150)
Oil pressure and Boost Gauges and Fuel Press ($150x3 = $450) - you could also add egt. - or get a better price on these.
Timer $80
Vafc $300
Injectors + clips - I'll use RC injectors ($350)
Misc. Stuff $50-few hundred.


If you want to run standalone, lets say hondata

Lets say average Turbo kit $2600-2800 (minus fmu, inline pump, whatever else thats used with fmu/pump)
Hondata S200 Boost ($600)
Ecu + harness ($400)
Intank Pump ($100)
Injectors + clips - I'll use RC injectors ($350)
Fuel Pressure Regulator ($150)
B&M Fuel Pressure Gauge ($30)
Exhaust ($600)
Cat or Testpipe ($75-150)
Oil pressure and Boost Gauges($300) - you could also add egt. - or get a better price on these.
Timer $80
Misc. Stuff $50-few hundred.