Stiff up front or in the back?
I've got GAB adjustable shocks on my R - and I love them. My question is this: For better driving characteristics on the street and autox/track do I want a stiffer setting up front or in the rear of the car?
When answering my question please explain why - I'm trying to learn here.
thanks.
When answering my question please explain why - I'm trying to learn here.
thanks.
G-Day,
Well it sort of depends on the type & adjustability of your shocks, your Mods (wheels & tyres) and driving style/experience....but...
If you make the rear stiff than stock:- This will add to the Oversteer effect.
This can be handy if your any good at Lift-off oversteering ( when the rear cuts loose) to help you to get through corners. Just like trail braking in a RWD.
If you make the front stiff than stock:- This will tend to the Understeer, and change your 'Turn-in Characteristics'.
Understeering or Pushing is like trying to turn with too much front brake (opps pre ABS) but you know what I mean.
Have fun, My bet is you'll want to soften the rear supension, while stiffening the rear chassis. With either a rear tower bar and or another Power bar, underneath. Or both. (Power Bar is what honda call that bar in the back of the boot- low down. There are others in the car, but that's another story.) There's room for 1 more.
Later.
Well it sort of depends on the type & adjustability of your shocks, your Mods (wheels & tyres) and driving style/experience....but...
If you make the rear stiff than stock:- This will add to the Oversteer effect.
This can be handy if your any good at Lift-off oversteering ( when the rear cuts loose) to help you to get through corners. Just like trail braking in a RWD.
If you make the front stiff than stock:- This will tend to the Understeer, and change your 'Turn-in Characteristics'.
Understeering or Pushing is like trying to turn with too much front brake (opps pre ABS) but you know what I mean.
Have fun, My bet is you'll want to soften the rear supension, while stiffening the rear chassis. With either a rear tower bar and or another Power bar, underneath. Or both. (Power Bar is what honda call that bar in the back of the boot- low down. There are others in the car, but that's another story.) There's room for 1 more.
Later.
Right now I am running a 3 up front and a 2 in the back (4 being the stiffest) for street and 4/3 for autoxing. Springs are stock and so are all sway bars, etc. I like the way it drives and responds but I wanted to experiment a bit with it - but before I did I wanted to know what to expect and what to look for as I change the settings.
Also, somebody told me that it is a good thing to have the stifffer settings up front for a quicker weight transfer. This has seemed to be true, especially when autoxing. Any thoughts on this?
Also, somebody told me that it is a good thing to have the stifffer settings up front for a quicker weight transfer. This has seemed to be true, especially when autoxing. Any thoughts on this?
If you want handling that is predictable and tuned to the "safer" side (i.e. understeer) of the envelope - go with softer rear spring rates and rear roll bar stiffness.
If you want handling that is a little more challenging, dangerous in the wet and faster at the track (oversteer) - go with stiffer rear spring rates and rear roll bar stiffness.
I have 600# rear springs (stock is 240ish) and find the car still very streetable - but that is only a subjective opinion. I'm sure others would find it too hard.
Go with a suspension setup that you can easily change spring rates and damping rates to suit your personal preferences and driving style.
Note: most aftermarket "coilovers" are set with softer rear spring rates (probably so that people don't kill themselves)
[Modified by Big Phat R, 9:34 AM 6/19/2001]
If you want handling that is a little more challenging, dangerous in the wet and faster at the track (oversteer) - go with stiffer rear spring rates and rear roll bar stiffness.
I have 600# rear springs (stock is 240ish) and find the car still very streetable - but that is only a subjective opinion. I'm sure others would find it too hard.
Go with a suspension setup that you can easily change spring rates and damping rates to suit your personal preferences and driving style.
Note: most aftermarket "coilovers" are set with softer rear spring rates (probably so that people don't kill themselves)
[Modified by Big Phat R, 9:34 AM 6/19/2001]
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That is great information - thanks.
Question: I have the stock springs - does changing the shock stiffness effect the driving in the same way as changing spring rates?
Question: I have the stock springs - does changing the shock stiffness effect the driving in the same way as changing spring rates?
No it is not the same. The springs of the car hold/support the weight of the chassis; the shock absorbers control the oscillation of the suspension. Increasing the damping rate of the shocks reduces the oscillation, but does little/nothing to decrease the amount the springs compress/deflect under a given load. Running your shocks at a setting that is overly stiff relative to the spring rate, will eventually cause the shocks to cavitate or overheat (decreasing their effectiveness) or causing the internal parts of the shock to wear out more quickly. This is the way I understand it.
i run 10kg/mm up front with damping set at 15clicks, 6kg/mm at the rear with dampers on 11clicks. This is track setup....... setup works great with 215/45 tyres up front and 205/45 at the back......even though rear spring stiffness is quite less than the fronts ive compensated with less stickier and smaller width tyres at the back. Dont know how u like your car setup but i like my front to be verry stiff..... like someone said earlier... excellent weight transfer and control.
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