Question on how to build a higher reving engine and pushing it to its limits
So I'm pretty sure when you're trying to build a higher reving, that most of the details are going to be in the head. I know that springs have a lot to do with how high you can rev, but what are the other components that are essential to reving extremely high (10,000-12,000 range) and still make power? I know that after a certain point, your power band isn't going to keep shooting up like a rocket and that it starts to flatten out, but I read a lot of posts in where people are getting their car dynoed, and say that they would of made more power if they were able to rev higher. So to sum up all of the questions:
1. In specific, which components are involved to safely rev up to the 10K+ RPM range?
2. Assuming that u can rev up to the 10K+ RPM range, which components are involved in making it possible for your engine to still climb in horsepower up to whatever your engine would be maxing out at?
3. Are there companies that produce parts for high reving forced induction honda engines (b18c1)?
Thanks for all the input
1. In specific, which components are involved to safely rev up to the 10K+ RPM range?
2. Assuming that u can rev up to the 10K+ RPM range, which components are involved in making it possible for your engine to still climb in horsepower up to whatever your engine would be maxing out at?
3. Are there companies that produce parts for high reving forced induction honda engines (b18c1)?
Thanks for all the input
I’m no expert but I would say….
1) Valve train: You will need higher tension springs to keep your valves from “floating”. I wish someone would make pneumatic valve springs for Hondas
(used on Formula 1 cars) less loss of hp due to the increase drag (parastitic loss?).
2) Rods: At increased RPM the lateral forces on the rods increases exponentially. Stronger rods are a plus. Also use studs rather than bolts, as I believe that bolts tend to fail far more often.
3) Balancing: Your rotating assembly should be balanced to reduce high RPM harmonics. A dampener would also help in this department.
I'm sure there is more to this, I just can't think of it right now.
1) Valve train: You will need higher tension springs to keep your valves from “floating”. I wish someone would make pneumatic valve springs for Hondas
(used on Formula 1 cars) less loss of hp due to the increase drag (parastitic loss?).2) Rods: At increased RPM the lateral forces on the rods increases exponentially. Stronger rods are a plus. Also use studs rather than bolts, as I believe that bolts tend to fail far more often.
3) Balancing: Your rotating assembly should be balanced to reduce high RPM harmonics. A dampener would also help in this department.
I'm sure there is more to this, I just can't think of it right now.
I'm assuming you are NA that's why you would want to rev so high...
You wouldn't have to rev so high on a turbo application to get power.
But if you really want to rev high then get good springs and retainers...
BTW- You don't neccesary gain power by going to 10k on a NA motor.
You wouldn't have to rev so high on a turbo application to get power.
But if you really want to rev high then get good springs and retainers...
BTW- You don't neccesary gain power by going to 10k on a NA motor.
BTW- You don't neccesary gain power by going to 10k on a NA motor.
This brings up the point of people over building the intake/exhaust systems for the RPM range they plan to operate. When this happens they will see that their overall power/HP will increase to the point of their redline. While an intake/exhaust system that didn't flow as much could have given them more "usable" power over peak HP.
[Modified by TrueNorthStar, 6:03 AM 4/1/2003]
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The-Kid
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