I need help on converting my h22a auto belt tensioner to h23 manual tensioner. I'm building up my head and they recomend that I should change it. Please help and if I need other parts in doing so, please help me.

 

well, i remember not long back we had a good right up about it, just search, shows all the parts you need and everything

 

Did anyone notice that after doing the conversion that the timing belt is very tight? Tight as in; the tensioner barely moves from the fully open position after the belt is installed. I believe the belt is trying to slowly walk its way off the cam sprockets. Any insight?

Brett,

 

The belt is tight. If the belt is trying to "walk" off of the cam gears, crank pulley, or tensioner, there may be an alignment issue. When you did your conversion, did you add the proper washer between the block and the long bolt (that holds it all together) also, make sure that the balance shaft crank pulley is in place.

 

Yes, I did add the washer for the tensioner pulley assembly and the balance pulley is installed. The washer is black right? Is the timing belt tensioner pulley supposed to be mated flush with the block or does the pulley sit at a slight angle with one side off the block if viewed from above? It is acting like the washer isn't there.
thanks man,

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H22Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, I did add the washer for the tensioner pulley assembly and the balance pulley is installed. The washer is black right? Is the timing belt tensioner pulley supposed to be mated flush with the block or does the pulley sit at a slight angle with one side off the block if viewed from above? It is acting like the washer isn't there.
thanks man,</TD></TR></TABLE>

The washer you should have added between the block and mounting bolt, is 40mm or just over 1 1/2" across. It is brass in color. The tensioner pulley will sit flat against this washer and should move smoothly through it's full range of adjustment. Sounds like to me that you have the wrong washer and that is the cause of your problem.

 

Ok, I got the tensioner pulley to seat fully against the washer, but only when I move the slider arm on the tensioner pulley <U>above</U> the little aluminum bracket which rests in the auto-tensioners original location. Like the aluminum bracket is to thick, it's holding the slider arm further off the block than it shoud which is making the tensior pulley "kink".

From the looks of things, I "should" just be able to lightly sand down the top portion of the aluminum bracket, allowing the pulley to mate flush with the washer. Do the F22s have the same components?
I'd like to find out what the real problem and solution is, especially before I go sanding down tensioner components.


Modified by H22Si at 6:49 AM 6/24/2003

 

I swear I have the right washer, but then again this wouldn't be the first time Honda screwed up an order. Would you happen to have the part# for the washer handy?

 

The part nubmer for the washer is 90140-P14-A00.

what aluminum bracket are you refering to? The pulley pivots off of the waterpump side... Do you mean the the bracket that is on the left side of the tensioner? This allows the slotted portion of the tensioner pulley to be locked in place with a 10mm (bolt head). If it is the bracket that is in the way, I suggest deleting it. Most of the engines I have seen converted this way no longer use it.

 

Right, the bracket to the left of the tensioner. That's good to hear that people have just removed it. Would you reccomend keeping the original autotensioner bolts and installing washers underneath them, i'm not sure if they play that critical of a role as far as proper oil pump sealing.

 

I usually replace the auto tensioner bols with shorter bolts.

 

Cool. Man I seriously appreciate the help

Brett,

 

how hard is it to do the maual tensioner conversion, I'm having my engine rebuilt next week with new pistons, water pump, oil pump and timing belt, would I have to replace the auto tensioner also, if I was planning to keep the auto tensioner?

 

It's not really hard at all if you've worked with the timing assembly before. If you're removing the assembly anyway I would highly reccomend going ahead and get it out of the way.