... stock b18c1 rods with forged pistons... how much boost???
... i have been told that stock honda rods are good for mild street setups... any truth to this statement?... how much boost can stock b18c1 rods reliably take given decent tuning?... 10psi?... just curious... thanks...
I am not sure what amount of boost is safe. I am hearing different opinions and suggestions and I am confused. Can someone with similar setup give me some suggestions? Thank you.
BTW, I did a search too many already.
BTW, I did a search too many already.
You can run 20psi on a small turbo safely. But with a larger turbo you wil have to run less boost since you will make more power.
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This is what I use. Doesn't mean it's right. But it's what I use.
All below are with a perfect tune on some sort of engine management w/ the proper fuel system.
b-series limits
250 - 299 whp : Stock block
300 - 339 whp : Forged Pistons
340 - 389 whp : Forged Pistons & Rods
390 - +++ whp : Forged Pistons, Rods, & Sleeves.
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Here are some wise words from some fellow racers.
Originally posted by tony1
You will get more power at less boost but ultimately the power the engine can handle is dependent on hp, not boost pressure. With a bigger turbo making the same power at less boost, all you have is more lag. With the small turbo, you will get the same power (at more boost) with more midrange power and torque and less lag. Unless you are at the efficiency limits of your turbo, you're actually probably too big for your setup.
You will get more power at less boost but ultimately the power the engine can handle is dependent on hp, not boost pressure. With a bigger turbo making the same power at less boost, all you have is more lag. With the small turbo, you will get the same power (at more boost) with more midrange power and torque and less lag. Unless you are at the efficiency limits of your turbo, you're actually probably too big for your setup.
Originally posted by highmilehatch
you really have to take into consideration the amount of air that particular turbo is pushing into the engine itself, at those boost levels. For example, a larger turbo with bigger specs will push more air into the engine at that same boost level, and more potential for horsepower.
you really have to take into consideration the amount of air that particular turbo is pushing into the engine itself, at those boost levels. For example, a larger turbo with bigger specs will push more air into the engine at that same boost level, and more potential for horsepower.
Originally posted by st00pid
well the engine doesnt know what boost is. The amount of air that gets into the motor is 300whp worth of air, regardless of the manifold pressure. I feel that 300whp is safe for stock engines on pump gas.
well the engine doesnt know what boost is. The amount of air that gets into the motor is 300whp worth of air, regardless of the manifold pressure. I feel that 300whp is safe for stock engines on pump gas.
Originally posted by uglyasscivic
Boost is a measure of restriction from the turbo to the intake ports and valves. In a perfect world if there was no need to tune, what would hurt your motor? Horsepower. Horsepower is the only thing that can hurt your motor and since it is NOT a perfect world it must be properly tuned. Every combination of motors have their limits to how much horsepower they can make and a stock b-series bottom end can handle 300-365 whp regardless of the intake manifold pressure. The trick is to move the (peak) cylinder pressure (way) past TDC.
Boost is a measure of restriction from the turbo to the intake ports and valves. In a perfect world if there was no need to tune, what would hurt your motor? Horsepower. Horsepower is the only thing that can hurt your motor and since it is NOT a perfect world it must be properly tuned. Every combination of motors have their limits to how much horsepower they can make and a stock b-series bottom end can handle 300-365 whp regardless of the intake manifold pressure. The trick is to move the (peak) cylinder pressure (way) past TDC.
Originally posted by jinxproof99
that is a very good point. one which i think alot of people here(and elsewhere) don't understand. its not always the amount of boost you should be worried about, its the horsepower, a/f ratio, timing, etc.... for instance, some say a stock gsr will take 10 lbs of boost. well, theres a huge difference between a t3 @ 10 lbs and a t-66 @ 10 lbs. you must consider the whole equation, not just a part of it.
that is a very good point. one which i think alot of people here(and elsewhere) don't understand. its not always the amount of boost you should be worried about, its the horsepower, a/f ratio, timing, etc.... for instance, some say a stock gsr will take 10 lbs of boost. well, theres a huge difference between a t3 @ 10 lbs and a t-66 @ 10 lbs. you must consider the whole equation, not just a part of it.
... i have been told that stock honda rods are good for mild street setups... any truth to this statement?... how much boost can stock b18c1 rods reliably take given decent tuning?... 10psi?... just curious... thanks...
anyone else?... goal is 300 whp...
I've done well over 350whp on a completely internally stock b18c1 pushing 1bar with a 60-1. The only mods were a thicker headgasket, arp studs and block guard. Held up for 6 months no problems, until I pulled the engine due to overheating. Turns out the headstuds backed off to much, and just need to be retorque again. Compression was 180 across the board.
I've done well over 350whp on a completely internally stock b18c1 pushing 1bar with a 60-1. The only mods were a thicker headgasket, arp studs and block guard. Held up for 6 months no problems, until I pulled the engine due to overheating. Turns out the headstuds backed off to much, and just need to be retorque again. Compression was 180 across the board.
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Max rev manifold, 60-1 t3 .63a/r, 3" dp, 3" exhaust, spearco front mount, custom intercooler piping, 720cc injectors, walboro fuel pump, hondata 4b, cometic 2mm thicker headgasket, race engineering blockguard, arp head studs, clutchmasters stage 4 clutch.
Never took it to the dyno, but judging by the cars I raced it was easily 350whp+ at the wheels. Having been in cars with 300-400whp level, it was about the middle of those in the way it pulled.
No time slips, although leaving a friends built gsr swap with direct port 120 shot in the dust puts me in the mid 11's stock block. Inline pro has one of thier shop cars running high 10's with all stock block, and 440s, fmu and vafc. It comes down to tuning.
Never took it to the dyno, but judging by the cars I raced it was easily 350whp+ at the wheels. Having been in cars with 300-400whp level, it was about the middle of those in the way it pulled.
No time slips, although leaving a friends built gsr swap with direct port 120 shot in the dust puts me in the mid 11's stock block. Inline pro has one of thier shop cars running high 10's with all stock block, and 440s, fmu and vafc. It comes down to tuning.
I have tuned alot of cars, all ranging in horsepower levels. I have gotten rides or driven all of these cars after I tuned them. I know what 300whp, 350whp, 400whp feels like. My friend was making 310whp with a 120 shot of nos on his built gsr, when we raced I pulled by a few cars lengths. That alone tells me my gauging of the power level was correct.
Never took it to the dyno, but judging by the cars I raced it was easily 350whp+ at the wheels.
I local shop told me 350hp on stock sleeves with forged pistons and rods anything above 350 and your pushing it
This is the best thread I've read in a while. Any Turbo dedicated sites? I'd ask here, but I'm sure I would get eaten alive.
I want to know all the parts needed to make a custom kit unless RevH or MaxR are decent kits?
I have a B17A complete changeover. I do not have a header (manifold not included) or intake so I figure I can use that $600 towards a Turbo kit since these parts are not needed for a Turbo installation...correct?
I want to know all the parts needed to make a custom kit unless RevH or MaxR are decent kits?
I have a B17A complete changeover. I do not have a header (manifold not included) or intake so I figure I can use that $600 towards a Turbo kit since these parts are not needed for a Turbo installation...correct?
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