any tips for improving my driving? the best i can pull is a 15.0 @ 94 mph with 2.3 0-60 ft times

heres the mods

b16a
itr cams
97 spec jdm itr header 4-2-1
2 1/2 inch cat
2 1/2 catback piping
apexi n1 muffler
cheapy intake
pr3 ecu

the shocks are good so the ride is very stiff.

tires are close to needing to be replaced.
i know my track is a little bit slower than most but i know the problem has to be me. its a 91 crx si


also i get an o2 cel is this really causing my car to go into limp mode?

its been 4 months since ive been to the track and i ran it this last friday, now i only got to run it 2 times, first was a 15.9 (i mishifted) and then the second was a 15.0

i have wheel hop i think i launched around 3500


give me some tips on how to be a better driver.

 

Ouch, I'd think you'd be able to own a 15sec time with just a stock B16. I think its about time for a basic tune up.. fix that o2 problem. Did you install everything like the cams yourself? Is your timing ok?

 

Ok here are some tips and a couple of questions:

Get some better tires and you should be able to launch higher which will help the 60 fts and the overall et. I would fix the O2 code as well.

When was the last tuneup you did? Have you had the cams tuned on a dyno?

All of these items should help you get a better et.

 

well, the plug wires are new (magnecore 8mm) , the distributor cap and rotor are new, fresh mobil 1 synthetic thats all i use, new gaskets and seals.

i have new ngk 2 step colder plugs that im waiting to put in (after i install my n2o)

the clutch doesnt slip at all,

i want to get the cams tuned but there is nothing to tune ( i dont have cam gears, or a vafc) i installed the cams myself and the timing is dead on


[Modified by slowpokesi, 4:48 PM 3/25/2003]


[Modified by slowpokesi, 4:48 PM 3/25/2003]

 

That is your problem. You need to get some cam gears and a fuel controller to really take advantage of the cams. Have you done a compression and leakdown test on the engine?



[Modified by 91civic, 11:51 AM 3/25/2003]

 

i havent done either test but im kind of getting worried and i think i might need to

it doesnt burn or leak any oil
theres no smoke etc...

it runs a little rich because my freind complained about following me, but it could be my exhaust its like a week old.

im getting fairly good gas mileage ( 27 mpg )

 

i really think the problem is me (driving)

any tips or advice?

i have falken azenis i usually let the air out to 22 lbs, though this last time i didnt,
i do a little burn out to get the **** off my tires, i try to launch round 3500

 

maybe this will help you, A guy gave me a few tips maybe you can benifit from them,

Launching is touchy...dependant upon tires, clutch, exhaust back pressure. When I am at the track I like to dump the clutch...people will tell you for the BEST results on street tires
will be to slip it somewhat, but that wears your clutch faster. Me = I pull up to the line...pre stage...wait....then I stage after the other guy is pre-stagged then I pull the motor to about 6.5K to 7K and then hold it there...third amber goes off and I DUMP the clutch and watch the tach. I hit close to 100 rpm from the rev limiter and then I shift, from 2nd to third I power shift and from 3rd to 4th I powershift..run is over...collect my timeslip. I set my psi to about 16-17psi on BFG G-force drag radials, I was on a stock ITR clutch, on stock ITR axles...ran over 80 passes on them and the held up just fine. When I launch with full exhaust I have to launch higher...when you dump the clutch at the start the motor tends to
bog down with the exhaust still bolted up so you have to lauch about 500-1K higher than you would if you ran open header like I do. I would rather DUMP the clutch and spin tires than slip the clutch and get wheel-hop which causes axle snapage. Tires are cheaper for the most part than a new clutch...this year I am running a slightly grabbier clutch that can take drag abuse but still feel like stock on the street....I am also using a lighter flywheel so I will most likely need to launch higher due to less inertia in the fly...in the end nothing I can tell you will matter more than going out and launching at the strip under the
lights....its a VERY unique experience, and one that changes when your competing with even more pressure.


there ya go cant wait to try this out.

Blaze

 

I am not saying that it's not the driver because the driver can improve alot. There is nothing that we can tell you over the net because we don't know how you are on the track. The best thing for you is to get TONS of seat time and you will improve with time.

Don't think that because you read a whole page of HOW TO'S that you can use them at the track and in one day go from a 15.8 to a 13. This will not happen. I also think that alot of it has to do with the car itself. I have an 88 crx HF with a stock B-16 and the thing ran a 14.8 last year, this is also with 16in wheels and full interior. Some other heavy stuff and still my best was a 14.8 in stock trim crx with b16.

Go mess with some stuff and tweak the things you do have and then seat time will be on your side. Good luck

 

blaze, axels are cheaper then cracking a diff

 

 

dumping at 7k sounds like over kill to me.

i think i could of done better if i could get a few more runs in that night but there were too many wrecks and i was too busy racing my gf's car. next time i go the only car im gonna drive will be my own.

i need to practice with na and the zex because i plan to enter for the nopi event april 11

 

It sounds like you might have two problems. One is tuning. When you do things like add cams, you can vastly change the proper amount of fuel and timing required. So the stock ECU becomes inadequate. Your best bet here is to have your ECU sent off to Hondata so that it can be properly tuned on a dyno. Adjustable sprockets are also a good idea.

The second possibility is the quality of your bolt-ons. Your cheap intake may be hurting power output, as could a poory built, crush bent catback exhaust. Replacement of these with quality components may help.

 

On the other hand, an oxygen sensor problem won't send your car into limp mode. But it will decrease fuel economy and emissions.

 

here is a good tip for you: when you are shifting from first to second, pull that shifter as hard as you can, it shouldn't slip out of gear, and puchin the clutch fast, it will rev to second very high and shift like you have never shifted before, try that and let me know what you think if you havent yet.

 

Practice. practice and more practice....Also get some cam gears (if don't have them already) and hit a dyno to tune that sucker. You may also benefit from adding a bit more fuel (chip/program ECU or go Standalone) to your setup as you've increased airflow.

 

Hey Slowpokesi, don't feel too bad. I've only ran my car once at Ennis, and ran a 15.1. That's in a 91 CRX hf, with 16 heavy rims with Nitto (32psi), intake, and Tanabe Hyper cat back. I'm sure you can get better times with more practice, but first you need to fix that O2 problem. When I first got my B16, my CEL came on for O2 during a race. And let me tell you it definitely went limp. I was realing him in and when the CEL came on, it was night and day.
Are you sure you have both O2 sensors hooked up? Because that was my problem. I only had 1 hooked up. I'd say fix that, and practice your launch. Once you get both down, I'm sure you're capable of a 14.5.

 

Don't feel too bad, my first few times at the track - in fact about my first four times at the track - I couldn't break into the 14s

I agree that you definitely need tuning to wake that cam up, but you should be able to pull the time in my sig with just an intake, exhaust, and stripped interior - because my B16A is stock otherwise.

My launch technique is as follows: 22psi in the tires, a quick chirp to get them clean (there is NO need to burnout on street tires, it only makes them slippery) and launch between 3k and 3.5k, depending on track conditions. I launch by dumping the clutch, letting the tires make a couple of rotations, then hitting the gas. It results in a bit of a bog - stupid lack of torque in a B16 - but my 60' times are down around 2.25s on average with very crappy tires.

I'm also tempted to say your exhaust diameter is too large (mine's 2 1/4) but I don't have enough experience to really say for sure .

Another thing that B16s like is advanced timing - I dropped 0.2s from my 1/4 mile by advancing 2 degrees and adding a little more fuel.

Just remember, when you go to the track, only change one thing at a time, and do your changes in small increments! Good luck!

*edit* Your MPH is high enough for 14s... in fact low 14s with more traction. To me it sounds like you're not hooking up off the line, so make that your priority. Oh, and there's no need to powershift or do anything like that - I shift normally at the track, and as you can see my times aren't suffering for it.


[Modified by raene, 7:02 AM 3/26/2003]

 

okay, a little more info

as far as the intake bit, its a cheapy intake but its no diffrent than an aem shortram for a crx except that its 3 inches.



as far as the exhaust, yes its crush bent, but the bends in this exhaust are perfect i will have pictures soon , the guy did a reallllly good job,

the reason im running a 2 1/2 inch exhaust is because my header has a 2 1/2 inch collector, i have the cams, and in the next week will be running 55 or 65 shot through my setup.

i have a short shifter, (neuspeed) and it helps i dont powershift but i shift really fast so i know thats not the issue, the main issue i think is either my b16a is weak, that im pretty fat and its slowing the car down, and that im having issues with my launch methods.

i do only have one o2 sensor, but im working on getting that fixed, and the cel comes on intermittently


[Modified by slowpokesi, 4:41 PM 3/26/2003]

 

i believe you should chip your PR3 to get rid of the o2 sensor CEL and to take better advantage of your mods (itr cams,etc) as far as fuel mapping. 94mph is definately good for a 14second pass, just keep working on it.