http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Yay or Nay ?


[Modified by nEoMuGen, 1:56 AM 3/24/2003]

 

The stuff he's stating is quite misleading, I'd definately say nay. Automotive engineers know more than this guy. He's just b.s.ing so people will give him attention.

 

the guy who wrote it sounds like a host of an infomertial or something, i wouldn't follow that *** clowns advice.

 

You know what though? Hastings (the popular manufacturer of most piston rings) recommends a similar break-in.

Does Hastings NOT knwo what they are doing as well?

http://www.hastingsmfg.com/Service%2..._procedure.htm

 

The street break in he showed wasn't really hard running, just a varying of the rpms. I agree that you should run it up and down the rpm range while there is a load on it. Don't be too rough on it, but don't be too nice.
(no, of course I don't have any real-world experience with this)

 

I'd have to say no go. I would never do that to my own car. You do want to run it over the entire rpm band during break in, but it should be done progressively and lightly. Also, I'd have to say running it too light is bad for the engine too.

 

*shrug* it's been talked about many times before and people have credited him.

he wouldn't make that huge page and test with a BRAND NEW bike just to screw people over.

 

I don't have any break in experience, but I can see how what he is saying makes sense. What I would like to see is a write up from someone who supports the manufacturer's break-in method so I could compare to two (and why the manufacturer suggests what they do. longer engine life=decreased sales???).

 

That is exactly what he is saying to do. You cant be too nice to it or the rings will NOT seal properly. If you follow what he is saying you will get a much nicer seal, I know from second hand experience (a friends engine). He has a v8 5.0 mustang and has tried both methods, once after a full rebuild and once after a broken valve. The harder break in method described on that page is almost exactly the method he used. After he broke the valve and tore it all down he noticed that the pistons, rings, and walls all looked exactly like they were supposed to unlike before when he had used a softer break-in like the factory suggests (when he still didnt know much as he put it). the softer break-in turned out much worse I am told. I wasn't around to see the first tear down but another person I talked to that was there for both also said that there was a noticable difference in quality.


cliff notes: that page is 100% correct, follow his method

 

i broke mine in slowly last time and after three months blew piston # 4 i was scard to open it up at first took easy revving every so often up to 1000k....guys rebuilding my engine told me to drive it hard and now i read this so i guess ill be trying out this method...if im at the expo i guess it worked...hahahaha i guess ill drive the car like i stole it......


[Modified by itr537, 4:52 PM 3/24/2003]

 

what i don't get though is what he says about 5 or 10 lbs of pressure holding against all that combustion and how the rings don't do that much. I believe that they do a hell of a lot. perpendicular engeries don't affect each other whatsoever, so if honda wanted to they could make rings with 1/8 of a pound of pressure against the walls and the rings would be more prone to fail because of vibration than because of the constant combustion. what do you guys think?

 

i say "yay!"

mike

 

I've had much better luck with a more agressive break in. This time I ran it to about 6k and used about 0-60% throttle for 200 miles. Then straight to 9500 100% throttle. It hasn't burnt any oil and the compression test was 320psi on all cylinders.

 

I would highly suggest changing the oil after like 20-30 miles as he mentions in there. It will look like its been used for 3000 miles when it comes out.