I just finished adjusting my timing and have a question. But first:

I know the maximum timing advance within the specs is 18deg. This is also the setting that “most” people have had the best results with. So I check my initial timing and find that it is actually a little below the 16deg mark. So I loosen the screws from the distributor and begin to dial in the right timing.

Well what I found was that I needed to move the distributor completely against its end stop just before I hit 18deg advance (the outer most grove cut into the pulley). After starring at it for minutes making sure that I was looking at it from the correct angle I figured it must be right and tightened everything up. Pulled the service loop and went for a drive.

Wow, yes it definitely made a difference and I heard nothing unusual.

My question is this: should I be worried that my distributor is set completely against its end stop?

I was using a simple timing light and gauging the timing against the marks cut into the crank pulley. Are there more accurate devices for measuring timing?

Thanks,
Doug

 

I prefer to use a timing gun with a dial. This way, you set the dial on the gun to 18 degrees. Then, you adjust the timing so that it reads at TDC on the crank. Voila! Some may not agree, but to me this is the only way to do it.

 

Did you short the service connector?
If you didnt then the ecm will adjust timing making your reading inacurate.

 

I am confused. The pulley has nothing to do with this, right?
sGT: he said he pulled the service loop, so he must have connected it.

 

Sorry can you tell me how to short the about connector, please!

 

Baby NSX - I would be worried. Usually it is only a couple of mm of movement. I indexed my distributor for 16, 18 and 20 degrees and the marks are very close together.


WhtDC2 - There is a little plug under the right side kick panel. You "short" it out with a service connector or a paper clip or something and then adjust your timing then put it back together.


[Modified by JohnnyBoy, 4:24 AM 6/15/2001]

 

I just measured the distance that I moved the distributor to be 2.5mm. That means that I only had 2.5mm of travel from the factory setting to the end stop.

I have read that for every 0.8mm of travel on the distributor you change the timing by 1deg. That means I have changed the timing by 3.1deg which is actually what was needed because my initial measurements showed that I was down from the typical 16deg.

I think I'll go and get a timing light with a dial just to confirm. Actually I think I will mark the timing "arrow" with some liquid paper to highlight it so that I might get a better (easier) reading.

I have run the car again and it still feels strong with no indication of pinging.

Regards,



[Modified by BABY NSX, 6:19 AM 6/15/2001]

 

What happens if you advance timing too much??

 

Flame front hits the top of the piston before it has reached the top of its rotation. When this happens it increases the stress on the engine substantially. The observable result of this is called "pinging". If you detect this (the ECU looks for it as well) you should stop running your engine ASAP and retard your timing (the ECU will do this for you on the fly but it is best not to run like this).

One last thing regarding my question: I'm going to look at the distributor bolts later today to see if in fact it is resting on the end stop. My thought is that it might have been hanging up on something while I was setting it up. Looking at it right now, it does not look like it has rotated all the way. HMMM..

Regards,
Doug