Oil change
Ok I'm posting AFTER making a general Query into the search option for:"ITR oil changes," and AFTER already owning an ITR before that I broke in. "AND changed the oil in 3 times."
Heres the deal, I broke in my new beast very smoothly without abusing her and only hitting V-tec after 900 or so miles, "and in 50 plus degree weather too." But, of course I wring her out well Now! I know all the Hoo Ha about breaking in an R and although I've been monitering the oil level EVERY time I start the car ,"and adding OEM 5w30 Honda oil" whenever it got lower than the 3/4 space, I wanted to know what OIL I might replace the origional OEM crude with?
I broke my old R in with the OEM stuff and switched to Mobil 1 after 11,000 miles. I am wondering since I went to my local Acura dealer and got the OEM replacement filter and they said "We don't have any oil in quarts, just in the large barrels," Funny funny Ha Ha. I don't have a way to carry any large amount of oil but, I bought a new ITR cap instead!
Anyway I have an OEM Honda filter W/Crush washer BUT, am interested in a NON synthetic oil that will continue to help break-in my car, While ALSO giving it the most protection "is that a stupid statement?"
I will do the Mobil 1 "or better?" treatment when I break 10,000 miles but need to change my oil this coming Monday.
So any and all help or opinions are appreciated.
NO Exotic oils, blends or synthetics please! I need to get the stuff for this Monday and don't have very much free time.
I will however entertain any and new oils or synthetics that may add to my cars performance/protection for the 10,000 mile change...
Thanks Guys in advance,
A.
Heres the deal, I broke in my new beast very smoothly without abusing her and only hitting V-tec after 900 or so miles, "and in 50 plus degree weather too." But, of course I wring her out well Now! I know all the Hoo Ha about breaking in an R and although I've been monitering the oil level EVERY time I start the car ,"and adding OEM 5w30 Honda oil" whenever it got lower than the 3/4 space, I wanted to know what OIL I might replace the origional OEM crude with?
I broke my old R in with the OEM stuff and switched to Mobil 1 after 11,000 miles. I am wondering since I went to my local Acura dealer and got the OEM replacement filter and they said "We don't have any oil in quarts, just in the large barrels," Funny funny Ha Ha. I don't have a way to carry any large amount of oil but, I bought a new ITR cap instead!
Anyway I have an OEM Honda filter W/Crush washer BUT, am interested in a NON synthetic oil that will continue to help break-in my car, While ALSO giving it the most protection "is that a stupid statement?"
I will do the Mobil 1 "or better?" treatment when I break 10,000 miles but need to change my oil this coming Monday.
So any and all help or opinions are appreciated.
NO Exotic oils, blends or synthetics please! I need to get the stuff for this Monday and don't have very much free time.
I will however entertain any and new oils or synthetics that may add to my cars performance/protection for the 10,000 mile change...
Thanks Guys in advance,
A.
Thansk Yoshi,
Thats what I ran in ALL of my old cars ,"and what my good mechanic buddy recommends, he used to work for Honda!" I will probably run the Castrol but, is the 10-30W oil the one I need or the 5-30?
Thanks and wondering when;" I can add some Yoshi-speak to the ending of my posts???'
A.
Thats what I ran in ALL of my old cars ,"and what my good mechanic buddy recommends, he used to work for Honda!" I will probably run the Castrol but, is the 10-30W oil the one I need or the 5-30?
Thanks and wondering when;" I can add some Yoshi-speak to the ending of my posts???'
A.
ANY 5w-30 will do. I mean it, ANY (well, it has to be SAE 5w-30 with SJ). I can't think of any motor oil that is not SJ at the moment. It's hard to convince people on this, but motor oil refining is so damn easy to do that 55-60% of cost is in packaging and distribution. Like I posted before, either Kendall, or Castrol, or the Kmart blue light special can NOW (in the past 10-12 years) tailor polymers chains to exact lengths and exact MWD (molecular weight distribution) that the benefit of synthetics in minimal.
The company I work for has built several of these facilities and I was directly involved in two of them (one in 98) and another last year.
[Modified by jl74, 3:26 AM 6/15/2001]
The company I work for has built several of these facilities and I was directly involved in two of them (one in 98) and another last year.
[Modified by jl74, 3:26 AM 6/15/2001]
And they manufacture???
Castrol???
Thats what I used before and will probably pick up for the refill...
"1Greyteg who wishes Yoshi would let him at least try Yoshi-Speak???"
Thanks guys,
A.
Castrol???
Thats what I used before and will probably pick up for the refill...
"1Greyteg who wishes Yoshi would let him at least try Yoshi-Speak???"
Thanks guys,
A.
I believe in the benefits of synthetic oil - better flow when cold (on startup), and better protection against thermal breakdown when hot.
HOWEVER - YOU NEED TO CHANGE YOUR OIL MORE FREQUENTLY THAN 10,000 MILES, no matter WHAT kind of oil you're using. [NOTE ADDED - MY MISTAKE, I THINK - SEE ADDITIONAL POST BELOW.] And this is MORE IMPORTANT than which oil you use. Honda's maintenance schedule says to change it every 7500 miles, and in rough service (which means most of us, since it includes hard driving AND stop-and-go traffic) you should change it twice as often as that. Most mechanics say to change it every 3,000 miles or every three months.
Use 5W30, as recommended in the owner's manual.
BTW, your searches probably didn't turn up much on the word "oil" because the honda-tech search function won't work on any word with three letters or less.
[Modified by nsxtasy, 8:42 PM 6/14/2001]
[Modified by nsxtasy, 9:06 PM 6/14/2001]
HOWEVER - YOU NEED TO CHANGE YOUR OIL MORE FREQUENTLY THAN 10,000 MILES, no matter WHAT kind of oil you're using. [NOTE ADDED - MY MISTAKE, I THINK - SEE ADDITIONAL POST BELOW.] And this is MORE IMPORTANT than which oil you use. Honda's maintenance schedule says to change it every 7500 miles, and in rough service (which means most of us, since it includes hard driving AND stop-and-go traffic) you should change it twice as often as that. Most mechanics say to change it every 3,000 miles or every three months.
Use 5W30, as recommended in the owner's manual.
BTW, your searches probably didn't turn up much on the word "oil" because the honda-tech search function won't work on any word with three letters or less.
[Modified by nsxtasy, 8:42 PM 6/14/2001]
[Modified by nsxtasy, 9:06 PM 6/14/2001]
i think he means he switched from conventional to synthetic after 10K miles, but he did regular 3k oil changes with conventional prior to that.
i'm just over 5K miles and i've been using castrol gtx 5w30. i'll switch to synthetic at 10K.
i'm just over 5K miles and i've been using castrol gtx 5w30. i'll switch to synthetic at 10K.
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I'm not so sure I'd be worried about going to synthetic too early. I went w/Mobil 1 on my first oil change at about 3500. Now, at 70k miles I'm hardly burning any oil. Even when I go to the track, I don't have to add any while others do.
FWIW
FWIW
1. If your dealer doesn't stock synthetic oil - and it sounds like they don't - they will almost certainly be happy to change your oil using synthetic oil that you bring with you, if you buy it yourself. And you will save money this way, too, since you won't be paying dealer prices for the oil.
2. You can get synthetic 5W30 (e.g. Mobil 1) almost ANYWHERE - any auto parts store, or big department stores like Target.
3. See above regarding the advantages of synthetic oil.
2. You can get synthetic 5W30 (e.g. Mobil 1) almost ANYWHERE - any auto parts store, or big department stores like Target.
3. See above regarding the advantages of synthetic oil.
And they manufacture???
Castrol???
Thats what I used before and will probably pick up for the refill...
"1Greyteg who wishes Yoshi would let him at least try Yoshi-Speak???"
Thanks guys,
A.
Castrol???
Thats what I used before and will probably pick up for the refill...
"1Greyteg who wishes Yoshi would let him at least try Yoshi-Speak???"
Thanks guys,
A.
Don't give the dealer synthetic oil to put in your car. I knew this guy that worked for a honda dealership and all he do is change oil. Well, he told me that everytime a customer gave them synthetic to put in the car they just keep it for themseleves and put the normal honda oil in the car. how are you going to find out? you cant.
At my dealer, I watch them change the oil in my car; there's a window in the waiting room. And then they give me the fraction of a quart that's left over, so I can take it with me and use it to add oil later as needed.
If you can't trust the work your dealer is doing, find a different dealer.
If you can't trust the work your dealer is doing, find a different dealer.
Speaking of getting Mobil 1 anywhere, I just bought a case from Pep Boys at $4.49 a qt. Well, last night I was at Target and saw that they have it priced at $3.49 a qt! Take advantage of this guys, who knows when Target will raise the price!
I buy my Mobil 1 Full Synthetic at Walmart. Every now and then they have a special for 5 quarts(comes in one container) for $16.95. $3.39 a quart to me this is a steal. I usually buy 0w30 or 5w30 for the ITR. Everytime they have them come in though its usually sold out with days.
ANY 5w-30 will do. I mean it, ANY (well, it has to be SAE 5w-30 with SJ). I can't think of any motor oil that is not SJ at the moment. It's hard to convince people on this, but motor oil refining is so damn easy to do that 55-60% of cost is in packaging and distribution. Like I posted before, either Kendall, or Castrol, or the Kmart blue light special can NOW (in the past 10-12 years) tailor polymers chains to exact lengths and exact MWD (molecular weight distribution) that the benefit of synthetics in minimal.
The wear protection from the use synthetic over regular oils have been PROVEN to be so insignificant, as to not be measurable. The advantage of synthetics is not in reducing wear, but in being more stable. Synthetics cling to critical surfaces better, resist shear better, resist foaming, and don't degrade as easily at higher temperatures.
I switched to Mobil 1 5W30 at 6000 miles on my R. My GSR was also run on the same, up to 89K, when I sold it. For all my other cars, I used Castrol GTX.
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