Did valve adjustment now idles wierd... HELP!!
Ok, last night I did a valve lash adjustment to my car (B18C1). Set all intake to .007 and all exhaust to .008. Put everything back together and drove it home excided that I got the tick to go away (first valve job). All day today Ive noticed that at idle, it bogs and bounces around and when steady is always under the 760-780 mark. Sometimes its in the mid 600's. Then it bogs out really bad, almost stalling. I cant tell much when Im actually driving.
ANY IDEAS???
ANY IDEAS???
I feel I did mine right also. I had to use a 10mm socket and screwdriver but I watched the degree that the tightener was at before tightening the nut and they stayed where I had them. I even left the feeler guage under till it was tight to make sure it fit still.
These are the only things I could imagine I could have done slightly wrong:
Over or under tightened nuts on valves
Over or under tightened valve cover nuts
turned crank pulley counter clockwise (does this throw off timing)
????? NO CLUE
These are the only things I could imagine I could have done slightly wrong:
Over or under tightened nuts on valves
Over or under tightened valve cover nuts
turned crank pulley counter clockwise (does this throw off timing)
????? NO CLUE
Forgot to add, i thought Exhaust suppose to be .009? I did my lash to tight once and it runs like crap. It is better to follow your cam gears marks to know that its on TDC rather than relying on your crank pulley.
it was finger cool. My hands never got burned. It had been sitting for a good hour or two. I read three different places that if its under 100 degrees its ok to do it and it was definitely under that.
Would that really cause a crazy idle?
Would that really cause a crazy idle?
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im experiences same thing too, but not sure if its valves or IAC or something else. I dunno. Ill update you once i find a solution.
where did you place the feeler gague?
was the motor room temperature?
are you sure you set the clearances properly?
did you measure them before starting the motor again?
is the ignition timing properly set?
is the idle set within spec in the proper manner?
what is the condition of the wires/plugs/cap/rotor/fuel filter?
thats all I can think of...
was the motor room temperature?
are you sure you set the clearances properly?
did you measure them before starting the motor again?
is the ignition timing properly set?
is the idle set within spec in the proper manner?
what is the condition of the wires/plugs/cap/rotor/fuel filter?
thats all I can think of...
put feeler gauge between valve and lifter
motor was warm to the touch but not hot
i kept the feeler gauge under the valve when I tightened it to make sure it didnt change
like I said, I kept the gauge under it till it was done and tightened. i would think they stayed. plus theres no tick showing up, just a wierd idle.
not sure about timing. I mean I turned the crank pully to TDC for each cylinder. Didnt touch the distributor
what do you mean is the idle set to spec? how do I change it?
wires are christmas new, plus are christmas new, cap and rotor have never given me a problem and are a 99, havent checked fuel filter. I wouldnt think it was this since its just since the valve adj.
Anyone else?? Thanks for the replies tho.
motor was warm to the touch but not hot
i kept the feeler gauge under the valve when I tightened it to make sure it didnt change
like I said, I kept the gauge under it till it was done and tightened. i would think they stayed. plus theres no tick showing up, just a wierd idle.
not sure about timing. I mean I turned the crank pully to TDC for each cylinder. Didnt touch the distributor
what do you mean is the idle set to spec? how do I change it?
wires are christmas new, plus are christmas new, cap and rotor have never given me a problem and are a 99, havent checked fuel filter. I wouldnt think it was this since its just since the valve adj.
Anyone else?? Thanks for the replies tho.
Sounds like tight valves to me. I put the feeler guage between the cam and the rocker when I adjust valves. I always adjust each cylinder on the heel of the cam (the part opposite the high point on the lobe).
i check mine from the lobe and the rocker. and it needs to be cold. seems like a tight one and needs to be fixed if it is too tight, it will burn the valve and ned to be removed and replaced. hope that helps.
how exactly is it supposed to feel when you put the feeler gauge in? Can anyone explain the feeling in detail? Thanks
how exactly is it supposed to feel when you put the feeler gauge in? Can anyone explain the feeling in detail? Thanks
[Quote] what do you mean is the idle set to spec? how do I change it?[Quote]
Ummmm.. If thats your Avator then you don't need to adjust your own valves....
Ross
Ummmm.. If thats your Avator then you don't need to adjust your own valves....
Ross
there are also feeler gauges called go no go gauges. they work like this. it is a step in the gauge. the very end is like 0.007" then in a half inch there is a step up to 0.009" if you use it and the 7 goes in and stops at the other half, it must be at 8. these are available from your friendly, and i use that term loosely, neighborhood snap on man.
Sounds like tight valves to me. I put the feeler guage between the cam and the rocker when I adjust valves. I always adjust each cylinder on the heel of the cam (the part opposite the high point on the lobe).
I adjust every valve. If the feeler guage goes in, I loosen the locknut and turn the adjusting screw in until it just makes contact, and then secure the locknut. If the feeler guage does not go in, I loosen the locknut, back the adjusting screw out 1/4 turn, then slide the feeler guage in, and adjust as above. I then test the valve by pulling the feeler guage out, checking for a slight drag. If the feeler guage slides out too easy, I readjust and recheck the valve. If the feeler guage binds or sticks coming out, I readjust and recheck. After doing this for a few years, you get a good feel for it. You don't find that you have to readjust too many valves.
Ok, re adjusted them and they were way off. I fucked up the first time.
This time I know I did it right but the ticking is still there. Is it true that GSR motors have a prominent valve tick from the factory?
Also, I tighted the lock nuts till they were tight but no farther. set intakes at .006 and exhaust at .008 (went to Honda today and thats what they suggested was best, plus I only have a .oo6 and .008 feeler gauges.
Havent driven it yet but just curious if the tick is expected to still be there.
This time I know I did it right but the ticking is still there. Is it true that GSR motors have a prominent valve tick from the factory?
Also, I tighted the lock nuts till they were tight but no farther. set intakes at .006 and exhaust at .008 (went to Honda today and thats what they suggested was best, plus I only have a .oo6 and .008 feeler gauges.
Havent driven it yet but just curious if the tick is expected to still be there.
i let a fan blow under the hood for like an hour. then for feeler movement i tighten it until the feeler wont slide anymore haha. well then i back off a bit and i consider that on the tight side of whatever spec i want. its no slight drag but i hear with old motors its better to have them on the tighter side rather than loose (.006 rather than .008). to double check i stick in the next ones smaller and larger- small ones glide in and larger ones dont go in at all.
b18, and b16 motors are known to have a slight tick noise in the head, b18 more than the b16, but it is normal, is your car still idling wierd?
I adjust every valve. If the feeler guage goes in, I loosen the locknut and turn the adjusting screw in until it just makes contact, and then secure the locknut. If the feeler guage does not go in, I loosen the locknut, back the adjusting screw out 1/4 turn, then slide the feeler guage in, and adjust as above. I then test the valve by pulling the feeler guage out, checking for a slight drag. If the feeler guage slides out too easy, I readjust and recheck the valve. If the feeler guage binds or sticks coming out, I readjust and recheck. After doing this for a few years, you get a good feel for it. You don't find that you have to readjust too many valves.


