Does anyone has any idea of what could it be wrong?

i did a compression test on it and the motor is healthy. So could wiring problem cause this? The motor runs really smooth. I just need some inputs,

Thank you in advance,

 

109 whp?

 

have you run at the track?
are you sure vtec is working?
any check engine lights?

 

Yea exactly as Kamin said.... Any CEL??? any air/fuel controllers??? A little more input will help... Latez

 

i have cel 1 and 3....They only come on when i am in gear and slowing down with the gear in....in another words, not in neutral. I could be driving for a whole day and cel won't come on unless i am slowing down by leaving the gear in and take my foot of the gas.

CEL 3 came on after the dyno.

Took it to dyno and also tuned it. Fuel pressure regulator is set at 30 now, cam gears are fine, timing is retarded 2 degrees for the NOS, headers and exhaust are there, Type-R intake manifold, p28 computer on my 97 hatch (OBD 1), i had a V-afc but took it out last week.

Did a compression test and it measures 180 on the corners, and 160 in the middle two.

Would this be enough information for someone to provide me with a little advice?

Thanks to anyone in advance,

 

and also i am only getting about 100-120 miles per tank!!!!!!!!!

Does B16's waste that much gas?????

 

umm...maybe its actually a d16... ??

 

Get all your codes fixed. Turn Fuel Pressure up to about 40 and make adjustments to fuel as you go. The timing being retarded will also cause a decrease in power. If you are running nitrous it is a good idea to retard the timing like you have, but you will also see a decrease in power when off of the bottle. I suggest setting timing back to stock 16degrees and maybe switching to a plug one level colder. Compression seems a little low, but not too bad. My numbers on my b16a ranged from 205 to 175. Your highest numbers are 160. You have some work to do, but don't get discouraged.

 

make sure the timing belt is on correctly. As in when you installed the cams, it did not slip a tooth. If it is off one tooth at the top, that is 10.2 degrees of adv/ret and if you are off one at the bottom, thats 20.4...and that will make a huge difference, however, on a B16, valve clearences would be at a negative by then, but just pull the valve cover and set the crank pulley at TDC and see if you can pin out the cam throught the gears side cam cap(assuming you can do that on B series like D series do). If that is not it, i would have to say something is screwy with the VTEC. If you have an afc but something is wrong with the solinoid, the ECU with think vtec is engauged and switch over the the beefier fuel curve, but if vtec is actually not engauged, it will run hidiously rich and make no power. Just my $.02
---and now i just saw the part about taking out the vafc...scratch my previous part pertaining that

Hope it all works out

Brett

 

mileage - could be MAP or o2 sensor
HP sounds like vtec isnt working
i put down 117 without vtec on my b16 and no check engine lights.

 

A code 1 is a bad oxygen sensor. Although a bad oxygen sensor decreases mileage, it dosn't hurt power output significantly. Also, a stored code 1 does not disable VTEC. So although you need to replace the sensor, this is not the reason for your poor power output.

The Code 3 is more of something to be concerned with. This is a MAP sensor code. (Code 3 and Code 5 are MAP sensor codes. One is for electrical problems and the other for vacuum related problems. I am not sure off the top of my head which is which). But a stored code 3 will DEFINITELY disable VTEC and GREATLY reduce power output. This one REALLY needs to be dealt with.

 

A code 3 for MAP indicates that something is wrong electrically... The 5 is more the mechanical side of the sensor... ie you'll get a CEL 5 if you have the sensor correctly wired with no vacuum to the sensor... As I asked before, you wouldn't happen to have a VAFC etc would you... Miss wiring a few things in that could bring up all the problems that it seems you are running into.... If you are able to drive and it doesn't sounds like a lawn mower i'm willing to bet that the MAP is still working somewhat... The only problem is the code... There is somethng wrong here... Try barrowing a friend's MAP if you have one... Good Luck

 

ur O2 is fuked, thats code 1. thats y u get **** gas mileage...and thats one reason u have shitty numbers...get code 1 fixed then see.

 

no his MAP sensor is causing the shitty dyno numbers.

 

Correct, although I think there are a few more reasons for such crappy numbers. Like I stated earlier, timing and fuel pressure play a pretty big role.

Edited for speeling and gramer!


[Modified by WAFFLES, 1:17 PM 3/21/2003]

 

Could anyone explain to me what could cause low compression numbers? And what is a healthy motor compression numbers? Could a GS-R tranny cause the low numbers? or it doesn't have an impact on the output of horsepower?

If my code 1 (after reseting the ECU) doesn't come on unless i take my foot of the gas (meaning that the CEL would come on only during deacceleration and with the gear in) would it still affect my dyno?


I am getting my car check out tomorrow....thankss for all the input....

 

You need to listen! These ppl are trying to tell ya.

- 180psi is not too bad, but 160 is border line of rework time. (rings or valves...or alittle of both) My stock b16 was 195-200.

- 30psi for fuel is kinda low...even for spraying. Stock fp is 35-41psi at idle on a stock motor with vac line dissconnected from fpr and vac line plugged.

- Code 1 is a O2 sensor. It does not mean that the sensor is bad...It could also mean that your running too rich or too lean. You mentioned that during deacceleration you would pop the code 1...sounds like to me that you are running to Rich. Would explain the bad gas milage.
(To check this, you could pull the plugs and check them for fouling. Clean them, and put them back in. Run the car to WOT and then off the gas and kill the motor. Pull the plugs and check them again for rich or lean condition. In the old days we did this when jetting Carburetors.)

- Code 3 is a MAP sensor. I'm guessing that this will be connected to the code 1 as both help the ECU control the fuel. (will dissable Vtec)

- Vtec, or the lack of Vtec could cause your low HP numbers. No Vtec could make you run hidiously rich and thus, make no power. I've know StormingMatt for a while. (back when he was a CRX lover...traitor hehehe...still have that downpipe Matt) Listen to anything this guys has to say. Sometime I think Matt lives in Honda's R&D Tech Library. And yes Matt, Code 3 is the Electrical side of MAP where Code 5 is the Vacuum side of the house. You are also correct that a code 3 will dissable Vtec...without popping a Code 21 (Vtec spool valve) or Code 22 (Vtec oil press switch).

- Timing belts, I've slipped teeth while installing belts. Just one tooth is enough to cause severe power loss. Make sure the timing belt is on correctly. As Yellowhonda88 said...If it is off one tooth at the top, that is 10.2 degrees of adv/ret and if you are off one at the bottom, thats 20.4.

- Just a side note on AFC's...In the past, I've seen and heard of AFC's causing both these code at the same time. I personnally think that AFC's are a waste of money and time. Get a Hondata. 110% better than ANY AFC on the market. Proven me wrong!

- And no! a GSR tranny has nothing to do with your low HP numbers. Hell, I'm using a YS1 (GSR) tranny and put down 202whp on my N/A B16...but then it wasn't stock either.

Oh god...I wrote another book. sry

Yell88CRXsi


[Modified by Yell88CRXsi, 7:11 AM 3/25/2003]

 

Thank you for the usefull input Yell88CRXsi!!!!

I am just wondering, on my dyno sheet when VTEC kicks in the curve drops a little bit and then it climbs up. Is the curve supposed to drop??


And what do u mean when u say "Run the car to WOT" what is WOT????

Thank you in advance,

 

WOT=Wide Open Throttle

 

Ya, it tends to do that. Good tuning will take most of that out.

 

what u mean with the last post Yell88CRXsi.......

 

I have a question concerning the MAP code. If you have this code, but have a VAFC so that VTEC still comes on, is it still affecting performance? or does the code affect other aspects such as timing, etc.?

 

the code 3 came on after i took out the v-afc. I know that the v-tec kicks in now but i don't feel it. In the dyno chart, the curves dips down a lil bit before the vtec kicks in but doesn't climb as steep as other curves i have seen.

I have check the timing, the teeth position on the timing belt, compression test, the fuel pressure was play around with and 31 was at it best, i hear the VTEC kicking in at 5200 with a skunk2 chip on my p28 but don't feel much power gain, my cam are set retard 1 and advance 3, gas mileage has improve from 100 miles per tank to about 200 miles per tank, cel 1 and 3 still comes on.

The only thing left for me to check is wiring.....Does anyone have any idea of what is going on????? Has anyone have this problem before????


Thanks for all the input....

 

After you took out the vafc did you reconnect the wires for the map sensor and vtec like they origianlly were from the factory??? Because they are cut when the vafc is installed if you left them cut that would explain your problems!

 

i had some problems b4 the during the v-afc. I took it out and put another harness in there. The cel 1 was there b4 and during v-afc.