turbo + Y8 + afc hack = DYNO RESULTS! *pics up shortly*
I give much thanks to Henry, Ray, and Ed at Motorsport Dynamics here in Sacramento, CA.
Go-Fast Setup:
'97 D16Y8
GReddy SOHC turbo kit @ 7 psi
GReddy Type 31 FMIC
TurboXS Type S BOV
HKS VBC
Walbro 255 high-pressure fuel pump
NGK 2-step-colder plugs
60 mm cat-back w/ stock cat
A'PEXi VAFC
RC 440s
It's running pretty rich even after tuning. I suspect it's because my IAT sensor is in the intake instead of the charge piping. I'll have to relocate it and have them re-tune it. Also, I can't "pop the clutch" at high rpms or it stalls. I have to let it wind down to 20 mph and then get into neutral. The setup works great, though! a little bogging under cruising but nothing major. My HKS VBC is also spiking to 9 psi for a bit. it's set at 7 psi.
NUMBERS:
149.1 hp @ 6163 rpm
146.1 lb-ft @ 4135 (should be about 135 lb-ft--thanks boost spike!
)
i think i can get way more power up top if it weren't for the 11:1 a/f in VTEC.
I'll have pics up in about 30 minutes. my scanner is broken, so y'all will have to make do with digi-cam pics of the dyno sheets.
again, Thanks to Motorsport Dynamics in Sacramento. http://www.motdyn.com
[Modified by Daniel, 2:48 AM 3/19/2003]
Go-Fast Setup:
'97 D16Y8
GReddy SOHC turbo kit @ 7 psi
GReddy Type 31 FMIC
TurboXS Type S BOV
HKS VBC
Walbro 255 high-pressure fuel pump
NGK 2-step-colder plugs
60 mm cat-back w/ stock cat
A'PEXi VAFC
RC 440s
It's running pretty rich even after tuning. I suspect it's because my IAT sensor is in the intake instead of the charge piping. I'll have to relocate it and have them re-tune it. Also, I can't "pop the clutch" at high rpms or it stalls. I have to let it wind down to 20 mph and then get into neutral. The setup works great, though! a little bogging under cruising but nothing major. My HKS VBC is also spiking to 9 psi for a bit. it's set at 7 psi.
NUMBERS:
149.1 hp @ 6163 rpm
146.1 lb-ft @ 4135 (should be about 135 lb-ft--thanks boost spike!
)i think i can get way more power up top if it weren't for the 11:1 a/f in VTEC.
I'll have pics up in about 30 minutes. my scanner is broken, so y'all will have to make do with digi-cam pics of the dyno sheets.
again, Thanks to Motorsport Dynamics in Sacramento. http://www.motdyn.com
[Modified by Daniel, 2:48 AM 3/19/2003]
Here are the pics. they're a little grainy, but i tried to sharpen and brightem them as best i could using Paint Shop Pro. i also used flash on the digi cam, but it just "whited out" the dyno sheets. my a/f sucks. I need to get it fixed asap!
THE INFO IN THE YELLOW BOXES IS A BASELINE RUN. THE INFO IN THE GREEN BOXES--WHICH YOU CAN HARDLY SEE--IS THE BEST RUN THAT HE LEFT THE SETTINGS AT.


And my car. . . .


[Modified by Daniel, 2:47 AM 3/19/2003]
THE INFO IN THE YELLOW BOXES IS A BASELINE RUN. THE INFO IN THE GREEN BOXES--WHICH YOU CAN HARDLY SEE--IS THE BEST RUN THAT HE LEFT THE SETTINGS AT.


And my car. . . .


[Modified by Daniel, 2:47 AM 3/19/2003]
Its may be the Spark plugs? You only need 1 stage colder why did you go 2 stages???? Do you have a decent exhaust? Numbers aren't to brilliant but can be improved as you said .
seems kinda low..... whats your timing set at?
[Modified by turbod16y8, 7:30 PM 3/18/2003]
[Modified by turbod16y8, 7:30 PM 3/18/2003]
i retarded the timing 3 degrees at the dizzy at the advice of some h-t peeps. But i think the main reason the numbers are low is because of that SHITTY a/f ratio. you take all the points and average them, and it's like 11.2:1.
i'm about 99% sure it's because my IAT isn't in the charge piping like it should be; it's shoved in the GReddy intake, which means it can't get the proper reading for air going into the IM. 
the wastegate's internal, so no vacuum line. just an actuator arm and some bolts.
bigger exhaust and get rid of that cat would help a lot! so would a little tuning.
2 1/3 exhaust (60mm) and stock cat are killing ya!!!
looks hot though!!! good work!!!!!!!!!
welcome to the darkside. you'll never go back
2 1/3 exhaust (60mm) and stock cat are killing ya!!!
looks hot though!!! good work!!!!!!!!!
welcome to the darkside. you'll never go back
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looks good. still some room for improvement though! which is a good thing
[Modified by SiRkid, 4:30 AM 3/19/2003]
[Modified by SiRkid, 4:30 AM 3/19/2003]
numbers seem a little low to me. i think you just need to throw it on the dyno and get it tuned out some. 2 step colder plugs and 3 degrees retarded seem a tad too much for a greddy sohc on 7psi. you're prob running too rich as well. still, it's good to see another sohc turbo
correct me if i'm wrong isn't the wastegate + downpipe causing the spiking in the Greddy turbo kits?.....
i heard it has only a 1-7/8" opening. hope that's not true! or it's sad.
What's up daniel? I would really suggest moving that IAT sensor back into the charge piping. What i did was drilled a small hole in the coupler that connects the charge pipe to the trottle body and put it in there. I would also suggest to leave the timming stock. or maybe just 1 degree, which may not do much for you. IMO 3 degrees is a little to much for only 7 psi, w/ my old setup my boost creeped to almost 8psi w/ stock timming...when i go up to 10 thats when the dizzy is going to get retarded.
Looks good though!
Looks good though!
I would really suggest moving that IAT sensor back into the charge piping. I would also suggest to leave the timming stock. or maybe just 1 degree, which may not do much for you. IMO 3 degrees is a little to much for only 7 psi, w/ my old setup my boost creeped to almost 8psi w/ stock timming
i know, I really killed that a/f ratio by sticking the IAT sensor into the intake. And the tuner was wondering why the engine wasn't responding well to the VAFC's inputs.
runs way rich and robs me of power.
i think i'll run this half-assed setup for awhile and upgrade to something else.thx again for the advice! i can use it.

Tune the setup before you upgrade, still lots to learn and lots to gain before you ditch it.
You can see how the power output dips at 4500 rpms right where you go pig rich. Get the IAT situation resolved so you can tune it.
Ditch the tiny downpipe and exhaust.
I bet those two things net you close to 20 hp. Think that'd slap a big fat grin on your face?
You can see how the power output dips at 4500 rpms right where you go pig rich. Get the IAT situation resolved so you can tune it.
Ditch the tiny downpipe and exhaust.
I bet those two things net you close to 20 hp. Think that'd slap a big fat grin on your face?
i've only seen this on setups with 2.5 or 3" dp and 3" from dp to muffler. setups with 2.5 from dp to muffler don't seem to have any problems running mild boost without any spike or creep
well, new problem has come up. The tuner, yesterday, had no problems, but I've been having a problem today.
When the engine is redlined in 2nd gear, I shift into 3rd, and the turbo stops boosting. Go into 4th or 5th, still no boost. I took it back to the tuner, and he sat in the car with me while we took it for a little spin. Right when it happened, he told me to pull over, and I popped the hood. He took my screwdriver and poked at the actuator arm, and sure enough, it's not releasing all the way for some reason, so exhaust gas keeps bypassing the turbine. The car's going back this afternoon, and he's going to open up the internal wastegate to see if the actuator arm mechanism's broken or needs adjustment or what.
but under all other cirumstances, I can build boost in all gears. just can't push it real hard.
When the engine is redlined in 2nd gear, I shift into 3rd, and the turbo stops boosting. Go into 4th or 5th, still no boost. I took it back to the tuner, and he sat in the car with me while we took it for a little spin. Right when it happened, he told me to pull over, and I popped the hood. He took my screwdriver and poked at the actuator arm, and sure enough, it's not releasing all the way for some reason, so exhaust gas keeps bypassing the turbine. The car's going back this afternoon, and he's going to open up the internal wastegate to see if the actuator arm mechanism's broken or needs adjustment or what.
but under all other cirumstances, I can build boost in all gears. just can't push it real hard.
well, new problem has come up. The tuner, yesterday, had no problems, but I've been having a problem today.
When the engine is redlined in 2nd gear, I shift into 3rd, and the turbo stops boosting. Go into 4th or 5th, still no boost. I took it back to the tuner, and he sat in the car with me while we took it for a little spin. Right when it happened, he told me to pull over, and I popped the hood. He took my screwdriver and poked at the actuator arm, and sure enough, it's not releasing all the way for some reason, so exhaust gas keeps bypassing the turbine. The car's going back this afternoon, and he's going to open up the internal wastegate to see if the actuator arm mechanism's broken or needs adjustment or what.
but under all other cirumstances, I can build boost in all gears. just can't push it real hard.
When the engine is redlined in 2nd gear, I shift into 3rd, and the turbo stops boosting. Go into 4th or 5th, still no boost. I took it back to the tuner, and he sat in the car with me while we took it for a little spin. Right when it happened, he told me to pull over, and I popped the hood. He took my screwdriver and poked at the actuator arm, and sure enough, it's not releasing all the way for some reason, so exhaust gas keeps bypassing the turbine. The car's going back this afternoon, and he's going to open up the internal wastegate to see if the actuator arm mechanism's broken or needs adjustment or what.
but under all other cirumstances, I can build boost in all gears. just can't push it real hard.
And that's no fun if you can't drive it like you want.
), Ray the Mechanic narrowed it down to my HKS manual boost controller. Sure enough, no more problems since he just bypassed it. He thinks one of the valves inside is sticking. but now i'm back to 6 psi.
HKS better warrantee their ****.[Modified by Daniel, 2:23 AM 3/20/2003]
What's up daniel? I would really suggest moving that IAT sensor back into the charge piping. What i did was drilled a small hole in the coupler that connects the charge pipe to the trottle body and put it in there. I would also suggest to leave the timming stock. or maybe just 1 degree, which may not do much for you. IMO 3 degrees is a little to much for only 7 psi, w/ my old setup my boost creeped to almost 8psi w/ stock timming...when i go up to 10 thats when the dizzy is going to get retarded.
Looks good though!
Looks good though!
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