im doing a y8 intake manifold swap to a y7 motor... well i got most of the old gasket off and it didnt leak any antifrezze... but when i went to go start it up i had some more problems... it revvs very high 3000 rpms... i mess around little with the idle screw and the rpms dropped too 2000... i decided to drive it around the block to see what happens... once u give it gas it just roars but moves no where... theres no power at all... and once i come to a stop it idles really high also... i get back home thinking i may have plugged in the map and tps wrong so i swap it and it idles prefect... ... but im not out of the woods yet... after i swap the map and tps... i started it back up... idles normal but when i give it some gas... it response super late... and once it does respones it seems like its going to die ... i sprayed some crab clean too see if i had any leak but didnt have any... i dont know what is the problem... can anyone help ME!!!???

 

when i did mine, i had to move the tb cable and relocate it, sounds like it's the cable to me, if it's not ideling right

 

its idling right, right now (700 rpms) cause i swapped the MAP and TPS sensors around... but when i give it gas it response really late and it feels likes it going to die...

 

anyone... i need help asap....

 

Are you throwing any cels? The y8 manifold has 2 wires for the iacv and the y7 has 3 wires. What ECU are you using?

 

Did you swap the y7 TB on the y8 mani???

 

yea, you runnin the y7's thorttle body? wat exactly is the setup?

 

you may have air in your coolant.. i had this same prob.. put the map and TPS back to the way they should be and drain all the anitfreeze from the radiator and block.. (size 19 on front of block) and then close it and close the radiator drain screw and open the bleeder nut on the head where the top radiator hose connects to it. then fill with coolant till a steady stream of coolant comes out of the bleeder screw.. tighten it and top off.. that should fix it..

mike

 

i fixed the idle problem... i messed with the screw underneath the throtle plate (7mm) and it dropped to normal idle (800 rpms)... but im having yet another problem car has NO power ... when it was stock it felt alot faster... the power isnt just there... i raced my brothers auto 91 accord with I/H/E when i was stock i beat him by like a car... raced him yesturday when i finished i got my *** smoked... i have ITR short ram intake, DC 4-2-1 header, no cat, and the y8 IM... i do have a check light for the O2 sensor cause im only running one i have no cat to run the other one... the intake manifold has been bored to fit a gsr TB but im using my Y7 TB now... could that be a problem??? because it was bored to fit a GSR TB (60mm) but im using my Y7 TB (56mm)..when it was stock it would just take off when i floored it in 1st... now when i floor it just wouldnt take off like it use to... which it should because i have added the header, intake, and the IM... idont know what i did wrong this is pissin me off

set-up
d16y7
y8 intake manifold (bored to fit GSR TB)
ITR short ram intake
DC 4-2-1
y7 TB
y7 ecu



[Modified by SPOON_BeIgHtEeNsEe, 7:21 PM 3/17/2003]

 

yo your o2 is ******* you over.i used a 93 si intake manifold worked great untill i put the header and catback on, my car dont have a cat. so it started idling all messe dup like rev high then when i let off the gas and press the clutch it want to die sometimes.. get an o2 simulator it will straitin everything out and the cel will shut off also. and you should be fine!

 

i only ran one o2 sensor when i was stock... i ran a 92-95 stock si header... used one o2 sensor that time too it idle fine and ran fine... the car started to act up when i swapped the manifold...


[Modified by SPOON_BeIgHtEeNsEe, 8:16 PM 3/17/2003]

 

Honda designed it to run with two O2 sensors....it might run fine for a while, but just removing one, you will have problems. Why did you take the CAT out? If you're looking for power, that not the place to look

you're just looking for problems. Might run fine on one O2 if you run a AEM ECU. Right now you're probably just messing the stock ECU up. You could be thowing the stock ECU into limp home mode, might be why you power is way down.

 

its a d16y7 theres no cat... well there is but its on the header... and im using a DC header so i cant use the cat... im looking for a EX cat but no one has one...


[Modified by SPOON_BeIgHtEeNsEe, 8:58 PM 3/17/2003]

 

whenever i go into 2nd gear and around 3000 rpm it sounds like theres some sort of a leak and it lags like crazy...... what could that be???

 

i have code 65 O2 sensor... thats it...

 

I don't know that this is at all related to your problem, but doesn't the y7 TB have the IACV built in? So are you using the IACV that is attached to the back of the y8 IM, or the one on the y7 TB?

 

I would look into wrapping the O2 with aluminum foil so that it stops throwing the code.

Fix that first.

 

im using the Y7 TB and the iacv on it... i plugged up the y8 iacv... what do u mean by wrap it with foil???

 

yeah tell me more about this foil trick, i just spliced my o2 sensor wires into the o2 sensor that is in my header, i have a check engine light and i am pretty sure thats whats throwing the code, but one day it was really cold like 15 below, up here in alaska, and my car wouldn't start for the first time. oh yeah the foil thing, telll me more

 

Only do this for the second o2 sensor. It allows the o2 sensor to stay hot, o2 sensors dont really like the cold. As long as its reading clean air it should not throw a code.

 

what do u do?