questions about doing Accord brakes
I was informed by my Honda dealer that I needed to spend $900+ doing all my brakes. This is right before spending $900 doing a timing belt and 30k service.
They said I needed new rotors all around. I have a 2000 Accord EX with 87k, I have never done any brake work and I do all highway driving (125 miles round trip to work 5 days a week)
I checked the rotors myself and they don't look too bad. I have no vibrations or shaking when braking so I don't think they are warped. I have heard conflicting opinions about whether to turn them or not.
So I have a few questions about doing the brakes myself. I just recently bought a service manual on ebay so hopefully this will answer some of my questions.
1. Will I need a puller tool to get the rotors off? The rears seem to have a couple flat screws that need to come out and I wonder if they will be frozen after removing these. Can I just gently tap them loose?
2. I have read that the rear caliper pistons cannot be pressed back in with a C-clamp because they spiral out. Are these easy to "twist" back in?
3. Rotors - turn, replace, or leave as is?
Thanks in advance for the help.
Walter
They said I needed new rotors all around. I have a 2000 Accord EX with 87k, I have never done any brake work and I do all highway driving (125 miles round trip to work 5 days a week)
I checked the rotors myself and they don't look too bad. I have no vibrations or shaking when braking so I don't think they are warped. I have heard conflicting opinions about whether to turn them or not.
So I have a few questions about doing the brakes myself. I just recently bought a service manual on ebay so hopefully this will answer some of my questions.
1. Will I need a puller tool to get the rotors off? The rears seem to have a couple flat screws that need to come out and I wonder if they will be frozen after removing these. Can I just gently tap them loose?
2. I have read that the rear caliper pistons cannot be pressed back in with a C-clamp because they spiral out. Are these easy to "twist" back in?
3. Rotors - turn, replace, or leave as is?
Thanks in advance for the help.
Walter
Sounds to me like the dealer is BS'ing you, big time. Unless the pads were worn down to the rivets and destroyed the rotors, there's no way a 2000 with 87k should need new rotors. Sounds like you're good with keeping up with maintence though, so I'm gonna guess you probably wouldn't let the pads get that low. We've put 173,000 on my car in the nearly 6 years we've had it, and I've only replaced the rotors once (a little under a year ago w/new brembos), and I'm pretty sure the ones that were on there were the originals. The old ones were turned a couple times, and once was only because a tire shop overtightened the lug nuts waaay too much and bent the rotors all to hell. I replaced them only because the old ones were under thickness specifications.
If you're getting no vibrations from the brakes, and they look fine, just leave them alone. Trust me, if they were warped, they would not hesitate to let you know, heh. If the time comes that they do start vibrating, then I'd just have them turned (and also check the slider pins on the calipers to make sure nothing is stuck, causing the vibration). You can have them turned several times before they get under spec. I can't give details on doing the brakes as I believe yours are hub over rotor design, where as mine are rotor over hub (which is much easier, lol). The rears should still be rotor over hub though, and with that you just take those flat screws out (they shouldn't be frozen on that new of car, but they might be. Mine were, and I had to drill them out and re-tap the threads in the hub....PITA), take the caliper and caliper mounting bracket off, and off comes the rotor. I didn't need a puller for mine, but I can't speak for the 6th gen. And yes, the rear caliper can NOT be compressed with a C-clamp, you have to use a needle nose pliers or anything else that might work, and turn the piston clockwise to 'screw' it back into the cylinder. It's real easy, don't worry. Then when you put it back on, you just have to line one of the grooves from the piston up with the little nub thingy on the brake pad, and slip it back on. WAAYYY easier than drums! If you've got a service manual though you won't have any problems. I wouldn't worry about the rotors, just change the pads if they're getting low and you should be good to go.
If you're getting no vibrations from the brakes, and they look fine, just leave them alone. Trust me, if they were warped, they would not hesitate to let you know, heh. If the time comes that they do start vibrating, then I'd just have them turned (and also check the slider pins on the calipers to make sure nothing is stuck, causing the vibration). You can have them turned several times before they get under spec. I can't give details on doing the brakes as I believe yours are hub over rotor design, where as mine are rotor over hub (which is much easier, lol). The rears should still be rotor over hub though, and with that you just take those flat screws out (they shouldn't be frozen on that new of car, but they might be. Mine were, and I had to drill them out and re-tap the threads in the hub....PITA), take the caliper and caliper mounting bracket off, and off comes the rotor. I didn't need a puller for mine, but I can't speak for the 6th gen. And yes, the rear caliper can NOT be compressed with a C-clamp, you have to use a needle nose pliers or anything else that might work, and turn the piston clockwise to 'screw' it back into the cylinder. It's real easy, don't worry. Then when you put it back on, you just have to line one of the grooves from the piston up with the little nub thingy on the brake pad, and slip it back on. WAAYYY easier than drums! If you've got a service manual though you won't have any problems. I wouldn't worry about the rotors, just change the pads if they're getting low and you should be good to go.
Worst case escenario: bad discs, bad pads, bad calipers
Bad discs would be around 160$ for brembo blanks NEW
bad pads that would be around 80 bucks, right?
Bad calipers, the legend front calipers can be had for about 120 a pair, but you can just rebuild your calipers (if necesary i mean)
so you spend 360 for 4 new discs, front/rear pads and new front calipers (which are better)
so there is no way that it can be 900, so i hope you bought a helms on Ebay and not a haynes or chilton (which aren't that bad BTW)
i'm not sure how your brakes are, but they sound like they are ok, maybe just worn down pads, but sometimes one strong stop may warp the discs, so buy new brembo discs, new pads (better pads or stock pads are ok) and change the brake fluid, that way you'll know everything is ok.
Bad discs would be around 160$ for brembo blanks NEW
bad pads that would be around 80 bucks, right?
Bad calipers, the legend front calipers can be had for about 120 a pair, but you can just rebuild your calipers (if necesary i mean)
so you spend 360 for 4 new discs, front/rear pads and new front calipers (which are better)
so there is no way that it can be 900, so i hope you bought a helms on Ebay and not a haynes or chilton (which aren't that bad BTW)
i'm not sure how your brakes are, but they sound like they are ok, maybe just worn down pads, but sometimes one strong stop may warp the discs, so buy new brembo discs, new pads (better pads or stock pads are ok) and change the brake fluid, that way you'll know everything is ok.
Thanks to everyone that responded.
I just had the brake fluid changed. I think I am going to just change the pad and see how it goes.
As far as the service manual I bought on ebay I believe it is a Helms because it is a stock Honda service manual which I believe is the Helms.
Thanks again.
Walter
I just had the brake fluid changed. I think I am going to just change the pad and see how it goes.
As far as the service manual I bought on ebay I believe it is a Helms because it is a stock Honda service manual which I believe is the Helms.
Thanks again.
Walter
that sounds like the helms to me
Its the best money you'll ever spend on your car.
the screws that hold the rotor in place will be a little bit difficult to get out. If you have an impact driver though they should come right out. If not you can get one from Sears for like $10 or $15.
I have successfully used a C clamp on the rear caliper. the end of the clamp swivvled and made the piston rotate back in. I'd say give it a try, if not you can rent the special tool from autozone for free.
Its the best money you'll ever spend on your car.the screws that hold the rotor in place will be a little bit difficult to get out. If you have an impact driver though they should come right out. If not you can get one from Sears for like $10 or $15.
I have successfully used a C clamp on the rear caliper. the end of the clamp swivvled and made the piston rotate back in. I'd say give it a try, if not you can rent the special tool from autozone for free.
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