Long story short, did a brake pad change and bleeding. After the bleeding, the brake pressure feels sloppy. I think I did the procedure correctly, but maybe I'm wrong.

I did a search but nothing really came up.

Thanks in advance to any help.

Jim

 

Are you sure you got all the air out of the lines? Is you MC topped off? Not that it should matter too much, but what procedure did you follow?

 

drive for a min or two just around the block while using the brakes then go back and re bleed the system.




[Modified by Bbasso, 12:26 PM 3/16/2003]

 

Did you bleed them in the right order? Not doing that is a sure way for a crappy pedal feel.

 

Did you bleed the whole system?
While at it, did you bleed the ABS system? Was the engine running?

 

yes, make sure the engine is running so the ABS bleeds properly. start at drivers front, move clockwise.

 

RR, LF, LR, RF

 

ITR is LF, RF, RR, LR.

 

on me.......

 

This is the first I've heard of this. I don't think the Helms mentions it either. Can someone explain the benefit of leaving the car running while bleeding?

My experience has been that the pedal will not "firm" up until an hour or so after bleeding.

How much fluid did you replace? If you did a full flush, or replaced a lot of fluid, I think it my take a little longer before the pedal feels right.

 

This actually makes sense (keeping the engine running... The ABS system pressurizes only when the motor is running. But wouldn't the power assist blow tons of fluid out when you open the bleed valve????

 

no, it makes it cake to bleed the brakes and it firms up immediately after bleeding. Just dont do it in the garage, you will get a CO buzz and die

 

Did you replace the reservoir cap each time you did the bleeding? If you leave the cap off it will suck in air.

 

I thought the ABS was a separate system, and you only run the engine for bleeding the ABS system. I've never ever heard of running the engine while bleeding brakes.

 

If there is fluid in the MC it will not suck in air, even if the cap is off.

 

You sure? I remember when I did my clutch fluid I forgot to replace the cap and bubbles just kept coming out of the bleeder screw each pedal pump until I realized I forgot to put the cap on. Once I put the cap back on the bubbles stopped.

 

I had the the MC cover off, but i made sure that there fluid was always over the max. I didn't feel anymore bubbles squeezing out.

The procedure I used was opening the bleeder valve (thingy) and placed my finder over it with like a 1/4 to 1/2 turn. I had a friend push the peddle in/out until i didn't feel anymore bubble or heard fizzing sound from the bubbles coming out.

Another thing happened after I drove the car for a while. After a full stop, the brake peddle will slowly sink in to the floor. That freaked me out.

Please help me out, don't know what I'm doing wrong. Going to try the bleeding process with the MC cap on tomorrow.

Sorry about the long and unprompt response. had to work all day.

Thanks guys

 

Did you tighten the bleeder screw before your friend lifted the brake pedal?

 

Today, I helped a friend bleed the brakes on his ITR. We used an air compessed speed bleeder and it made the job so easy. We also installed S/B brake lines on an S2K and bled the brake system. The correct sequence to bleed the brakes is counterclockwise for an ITR.

 

I always thought you had to bleed the brakes, starting from the furthest from the MC

 

I think different years of Helms manuals had different bleeding sequences and that's why no one can agree. The 1998-2001 manual says front left (driver), front right, rear right, rear left.