installed my B&M fuel psi gauge today
went it real easy and everything fit great, i even used teflon tape to make sure there'd be no leaks this time the pressure holds at a steady 32psi and jumps to around 36-40 if i crank on the throttle cable...is this normal fuel pressure?
i have a header, intake and exhaust and when my aem fpr comes in what would be a good fuel pressure to set it at?
i have a header, intake and exhaust and when my aem fpr comes in what would be a good fuel pressure to set it at?
Leave it stock right now, until you get a AFC or other piggyback/replacement ECU.
Changes are with I/H/E you are already running rich, so there is no need to up the fuel pressure. When you dyno tune, you will up the FP and then lean it out where necissary with the ECU piggyback/replacement.
Changes are with I/H/E you are already running rich, so there is no need to up the fuel pressure. When you dyno tune, you will up the FP and then lean it out where necissary with the ECU piggyback/replacement.
Yes, you can always benifit from tuning. But you will need more than just a FPR.
You should also get cam gears, and a S-AFC, and dyno time. The gains won't be as big as if you had aftermarket cams, but you can squeeze more HP out of your current engine package with tunning.
Before you spend the money for all that, I would complete your exhaust system with a high flow cat.
You should also get cam gears, and a S-AFC, and dyno time. The gains won't be as big as if you had aftermarket cams, but you can squeeze more HP out of your current engine package with tunning.
Before you spend the money for all that, I would complete your exhaust system with a high flow cat.
I would turn up the fuel pressure just a couple lbs. Adding I/H/E puts in more air. more air + same fuel = lean.
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Don't forget the ECU compinsates for more air.
True..but it's not always enough, right? Would the only ways to correctly tune the fuel pressure be on a dyno or with an a/f gauge?
but with I/H/C/E its going to compinsate for more are and add more fuel, so if anything you are going to run rich and need to lean it out on a dyno instead of the other way around.
I wouldn't try and tune my car with just an A/F guage. Its a good way to make sure you don't somehow go really lean, and know when to stop driving your car, but you really need a dyno + wideband o2 with an a/f printout to tune properly.
thats why i used teflon tape and tightened it down very tight, ive actually noticed an improvement over what i had before cuz i noticed that when i took my banjo bolt off i forgot to put the little crush washer in so i was leaking a bit, no leaks so far with the gauge on and it looks cool when i pop the hood at the gas station to check the oil
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