Picsof my new car: CRVtec CRX *56k warning*
hey man
to make this more tech why dont you tell us a little bit about your crvtec
how does it run? did you do your swap yourself??
i heard the crv has the oil lines going through the head so when you do crvtec you gotta put some oil lines into the b16a head or whatever head you use
this true??
to make this more tech why dont you tell us a little bit about your crvtec
how does it run? did you do your swap yourself??
i heard the crv has the oil lines going through the head so when you do crvtec you gotta put some oil lines into the b16a head or whatever head you use
this true??
How neat..damn whats up with the 15 in front and 14's in the rear...
but whatever happened to the coupe dude and the monster build up that was supposed to follow...?
but whatever happened to the coupe dude and the monster build up that was supposed to follow...?
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Hey, sorry for lack of details.
I did not do any of the work myself as my life is too busy with other stuff, not to mention my lack of mechanical knowledge.
A trusted shop in Montreal did all the work.
To answer the question about the oil line: I think you're right, they need to drill a hole for the VTEC to work properly. I imagine it's standard procedude for any Frankenstein swap.
I've broken in the car, and it runs pretty damn strong. My lack of an exhaust system however is robbing me of some horsepower and that's my next upgrade. Along with some dyno tuning.
The car pulls harder and harder up to 7K and then from 7-8 it just revs - nothing exciting. I am hoping to find some more gains in top end after the replacement of my pea shooter and abandonship of my cat!
Regardless, WOT is pretty useless in 1st and 2nd gear. 3rd gear feels like it pulls harder then 2nd - my friends say its because even if I don't *think* that I'm spinning all the way through 2nd, really I am and only get full traction in 3rd.
The tranny is from a 92-93 Teg XSi for those wondering, the 1st gen JDM GSR cable tranny. No LSD though..
Oh and the rim situation has been fixed. The car had 14" stock rims on it, but I had to put on the GSRs in order for them to fit the brake conversion. After driving the car to Ottawa, I put the rear GSRs on as well.
As for my other car... well I sold it in order to fund this project... which is now 90% complete for this year (100% after exhaust and dyno tuning).
I did not do any of the work myself as my life is too busy with other stuff, not to mention my lack of mechanical knowledge.
A trusted shop in Montreal did all the work.
To answer the question about the oil line: I think you're right, they need to drill a hole for the VTEC to work properly. I imagine it's standard procedude for any Frankenstein swap.
I've broken in the car, and it runs pretty damn strong. My lack of an exhaust system however is robbing me of some horsepower and that's my next upgrade. Along with some dyno tuning.
The car pulls harder and harder up to 7K and then from 7-8 it just revs - nothing exciting. I am hoping to find some more gains in top end after the replacement of my pea shooter and abandonship of my cat!
Regardless, WOT is pretty useless in 1st and 2nd gear. 3rd gear feels like it pulls harder then 2nd - my friends say its because even if I don't *think* that I'm spinning all the way through 2nd, really I am and only get full traction in 3rd.
The tranny is from a 92-93 Teg XSi for those wondering, the 1st gen JDM GSR cable tranny. No LSD though..

Oh and the rim situation has been fixed. The car had 14" stock rims on it, but I had to put on the GSRs in order for them to fit the brake conversion. After driving the car to Ottawa, I put the rear GSRs on as well.
As for my other car... well I sold it in order to fund this project... which is now 90% complete for this year (100% after exhaust and dyno tuning).
Just curious, why did you choose the DC 4-2-1 header for your set up?
-kev
I initially wanted the 4-1, but I was told I was going to have some ground clearance issues.
I dont think they had to cut anything out to make it fit, I don't see why the would have!
I dont think they had to cut anything out to make it fit, I don't see why the would have!
[quote]: Yeah, and can you get a better picture of the header from a bird's eye view. I would like to see the clearance. Did you have to cut anything to make it fit?
-kev [QUOTE]
The 4-2-1 DC clears the cross member w/out a problem.
From a performance standpoint, I would consider changing out the crossmember to go with a better header, you have an excellent set up already, but a header that allows more flow might produce better numbers.
-kev [QUOTE]
The 4-2-1 DC clears the cross member w/out a problem.
I initially wanted the 4-1, but I was told I was going to have some ground clearance issues.
I dont think they had to cut anything out to make it fit, I don't see why the would have!
I dont think they had to cut anything out to make it fit, I don't see why the would have!
From a performance standpoint, I would consider changing out the crossmember to go with a better header, you have an excellent set up already, but a header that allows more flow might produce better numbers.
Many other people have told me the same thing. Thanks.-kev
nice crvtec
...too bad you live where you live...it must suck to always drive over salt and dirty ice/water...your undercarriage looks HORRIBLE
! i love southern cali
!!!!
...too bad you live where you live...it must suck to always drive over salt and dirty ice/water...your undercarriage looks HORRIBLE
! i love southern cali
!!!!

















