CRX rusts *pics*
hey supz guyz...i dont know if of you guys have the same problem...i just got a crx and it has rusts on the rear fender. it's pretty bad...i just got this crx like last week for 1550[had to negotiate so he lowered 50 buckz...
]...the car is 120 thousand miles...89 crx dx....need a little body work..and had to replaced the passenger cv joint.. i have some pics of what i did to the rust ...tell me if i did it correctly...srry...im a rookie at bondo......nothing is worser then the rust cancer...the b-tch just keeps spreading....
before...
after sanding
bondo treatment
i'll take pics when im done sanding and stuff...tell me if i did the bondo right...thx
]...the car is 120 thousand miles...89 crx dx....need a little body work..and had to replaced the passenger cv joint.. i have some pics of what i did to the rust ...tell me if i did it correctly...srry...im a rookie at bondo......nothing is worser then the rust cancer...the b-tch just keeps spreading....before...
after sanding
bondo treatment
i'll take pics when im done sanding and stuff...tell me if i did the bondo right...thx
all you did was sand it then put bondo? I have alot of rust, and i think i need to sand, cut, fiberglass then bondo. But how did yours work out, can you explain to me what exactly you did? Do you know if it last along time, because some people told me bondo sucks because you get air bubbles and the rust comes back.. do you know about that? Thanks buddy..
I don't know how many times I have to tell people *REMOVE THE WEATHER STRIP ALONG THE REAR FENDER LINE*
This is what causes the rust. The water from the rain gets trapped in this strips and causes rust in the rear 1/4 panel area. It happens to all hondas. Every time I get a honda the first thing I do remove that piece.
BTW: I'll be doing some repairs as well to my rust, when I got my crx the rear renders were already rusted!
This is what causes the rust. The water from the rain gets trapped in this strips and causes rust in the rear 1/4 panel area. It happens to all hondas. Every time I get a honda the first thing I do remove that piece.
BTW: I'll be doing some repairs as well to my rust, when I got my crx the rear renders were already rusted!
Can someone please supply me with some good rust fixing techniques. Because if i cant do it im going to take it to a shop, or if someone is willing to fix it for me close to pa.. Im willing to travel to them, and pay them. I have alot of rust on my rear panels, And im getting new fenders. But yah i need help on my fenders
i think u should have tried to sand it a bit better, cause there is still a little bit of rust left after you sanded. or like someone already said, just cut out around the edges so that you'll know that theres clean metal there and it will help prevent rust in the future. Also, I think that by just stuffing that bondo in there, its not gonna hold, theres not really anything to hold it, no thick strands like fiberglass so it might just shrink and fall out in a couple years, although there is a chance it may work.
and about that weatherstrip thing, could somebody try to explain this better, cause if it's that much better to take it off, thats what im gonna do. i just dont know exactly what im taking off here, any pics??
and about that weatherstrip thing, could somebody try to explain this better, cause if it's that much better to take it off, thats what im gonna do. i just dont know exactly what im taking off here, any pics??
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Ive thought of fender flares, but all the fender flares ive seen are wack looking.. They look like card board boxs painted or something... Of anything maybe you can find some STRONG *** tape, and tape from the inside out to hold the bondo, or like i said before try to do some fiberglassing...I plan on doing something this week, so ill let you know what happens
ps, your write he should have sanded more, and then sprayed some of that rust preventative crap... and sanded more... Then sprayed more then did the bondo...
[Modified by MrSpiLLz, 4:48 AM 3/10/2003]
ps, your write he should have sanded more, and then sprayed some of that rust preventative crap... and sanded more... Then sprayed more then did the bondo...
[Modified by MrSpiLLz, 4:48 AM 3/10/2003]
"I don't know how many times I have to tell people *REMOVE THE WEATHER STRIP ALONG THE REAR FENDER LINE*
This is what causes the rust. The water from the rain gets trapped in this strips and causes rust in the rear 1/4 panel area. It happens to all hondas. Every time I get a honda the first thing I do remove that piece. "-racerboy
EXACTLY!! When I fixed the rust on my DA I noticed all the rust spreaded from or was around this. When I pulled it off the was a lot of sand/crap stuck in there and this was in July. Minnesota dumps way to much salt all over the roads in winter so the day i got my ED I took these off.
This is what causes the rust. The water from the rain gets trapped in this strips and causes rust in the rear 1/4 panel area. It happens to all hondas. Every time I get a honda the first thing I do remove that piece. "-racerboy
EXACTLY!! When I fixed the rust on my DA I noticed all the rust spreaded from or was around this. When I pulled it off the was a lot of sand/crap stuck in there and this was in July. Minnesota dumps way to much salt all over the roads in winter so the day i got my ED I took these off.
i didnt think that the fiberglass woudl stick to metal panels? how are you guys goign about fibergalssing this stuff? I would loev to see a write up with some pics!!!
for all you guys doing this soon
for all you guys doing this soon
well... I really have no Bleeping idea lol...
Im just going buy what people told me, and what i have read on the box at kmart..
The box says put the fg cut into correct size according to the rust which comes in mats , into the solution(forget the name) then apply to the car, then smooth out, and repeat if nec. Then apply bondo, smooth out.. and sand..
Someone else told me to do it the opposite way, apply bondo, then fiberglass, then bondo, then sand.....
i still have not decided whether or not i will tackle this my self, or pay a shop to do it.. if the shop is less then 250 dollars, then ill pay them. Im getting a estimate tomorrow..
Im just going buy what people told me, and what i have read on the box at kmart..
The box says put the fg cut into correct size according to the rust which comes in mats , into the solution(forget the name) then apply to the car, then smooth out, and repeat if nec. Then apply bondo, smooth out.. and sand..
Someone else told me to do it the opposite way, apply bondo, then fiberglass, then bondo, then sand.....
i still have not decided whether or not i will tackle this my self, or pay a shop to do it.. if the shop is less then 250 dollars, then ill pay them. Im getting a estimate tomorrow..
fiberglass is just the fabric like cloth with resin over it. I can see how it would work IF it adherses to the metal panel, I dont know either, but i have used it before in marine applications. (boat hulls) but they were fiberglass to startout with.
let us knwo what the estimate runs.
another solution is to cut out teh rust and weld new sheet metal in. I thought about doing this BUT i dont have a welder or the skills (even though i would be willign to learn!)
let us knwo what the estimate runs.
another solution is to cut out teh rust and weld new sheet metal in. I thought about doing this BUT i dont have a welder or the skills (even though i would be willign to learn!)
Horrible man..but it can be fixed...Id take of the rear bumper and sand and area 2 x the size ya sanded. Make sure ALL the rust is gone..thats why i reccomend sand 2x larger than the rust you see. you could weld some metal and then do bondo...or fiberglass the area....then use a file that kinda looks like a cheesgrater and use that to get the basic shape then use sand paper till it looks smooth...Rust is a nightmare thats why i always try to find a rust free car whenever possible..I suggest going to a body shop to get all your supplies and drive your car there and ask them what else you might need or will need to do.
when fixing something like that u wanna grind out all the rust and have a new plate spot welded in...
DO NOT use fiberglass because it is very stiff and it has a differant expanding rate as the metal. it will crack over time and fall off. also u have to patch it from the inside with fiberglass.
u might be better off also cutting that section off another car at the scrayard and welding that new one right in. i say this because it is hard to reproduce the curve on the fender perfectly.. yep, cut that piece out and weld another one from a scrap car on..
do it right. also when applying bondo u use a spreader not.. god know whatever u used!
DO NOT use fiberglass because it is very stiff and it has a differant expanding rate as the metal. it will crack over time and fall off. also u have to patch it from the inside with fiberglass.
u might be better off also cutting that section off another car at the scrayard and welding that new one right in. i say this because it is hard to reproduce the curve on the fender perfectly.. yep, cut that piece out and weld another one from a scrap car on..
do it right. also when applying bondo u use a spreader not.. god know whatever u used!
I don't know how many times I have to tell people *REMOVE THE WEATHER STRIP ALONG THE REAR FENDER LINE*
This is what causes the rust. The water from the rain gets trapped in this strips and causes rust in the rear 1/4 panel area. It happens to all hondas. Every time I get a honda the first thing I do remove that piece.
BTW: I'll be doing some repairs as well to my rust, when I got my crx the rear renders were already rusted!
This is what causes the rust. The water from the rain gets trapped in this strips and causes rust in the rear 1/4 panel area. It happens to all hondas. Every time I get a honda the first thing I do remove that piece.
BTW: I'll be doing some repairs as well to my rust, when I got my crx the rear renders were already rusted!
So I went out to the car, and started peeling the rubber stuff off the underside of the fender lip. It barely had any adhesive under there, and what was there wiped right off - but the thing was friggin' CAKED with crud. I mean, I had to sweep off the driveway when I had gotten both of them off.
Not too many other cars have this piece - especially trucks, I noticed, do NOT have anything in the fenders like that that will trap stuff.
Alex
I have the same problem with my crx.......the way I see it......the car is already so old no point in taking care of the rust......your just slightly delaying the inevitable......just drive it until you are done with school or save up for a newer car.....I'm afraid unless you spend oodles of money your fighting a losing battle
this is my 1st crx. it Was a 1988 Si. Ran strong for 2 years on the original motor. Later on in it's life, it got a Zc and then died from electrical problems so i sold her. This car is currently being driven and everytime i see it i want to cry. The rust is getting real bad. Here are some pics of her.






RUST SUCKS
[Modified by crx_91si, 11:27 PM 3/9/2003]






RUST SUCKS
[Modified by crx_91si, 11:27 PM 3/9/2003]
Well, like i said earlier guys..im new at this so i dont know much...just got this crx and wanted to do something to make it look better but i used 2 kinds of bondo...bondo fiberglass and bondo filler...[hopefully that helps..] but i found out that there was bondo on there once before...but i think what brought the rust back was the fender piece....
before pic...
-sigh- im losing more and more sleep seeing this....and crxsi_91...are you trying to kill me bro...showing me that cancered out crx...makes me worry about my car lol....
01-1293....the reason that i bought this car was because i like the way it looked...and its really light...i coulda got a new car but i chose this car...so im willing to spend some time fix it up...but if i does give me too much trouble..i will just get a new car
before pic...
-sigh- im losing more and more sleep seeing this....and crxsi_91...are you trying to kill me bro...showing me that cancered out crx...makes me worry about my car lol....
01-1293....the reason that i bought this car was because i like the way it looked...and its really light...i coulda got a new car but i chose this car...so im willing to spend some time fix it up...but if i does give me too much trouble..i will just get a new car
I would say that if you're not going to do the right thing by welding a new qp there (or at least the piece that's rusting plus a little more all around) then you're better off not doing anything at all. Bondoing the area is a temporary fix at best, and doesn't really help with preventing the rust from spreading.
If I were you, I'd take the money that I would spend on finishing up this project, and put it into savings, and when you have enough money, have it done correctly by a shop - then you'll be good for at least another 5 years (on that qp at least
). Otherwise, I'll expect a follow-up post to this one in about 9 months.
If I were you, I'd take the money that I would spend on finishing up this project, and put it into savings, and when you have enough money, have it done correctly by a shop - then you'll be good for at least another 5 years (on that qp at least
). Otherwise, I'll expect a follow-up post to this one in about 9 months.
Like everyone else said, get it sandblasted and weld in new sheetmetal. Otherwise it's just going to come back worse than ever. I just bought an 89 SI and taking off the quarter panels there's a good amount of bondo'd holes. I'll need to cut it all out myself and weld in new steel.
Oy Vey. Thats the thing I hate most about our cars is the rust. I hate that they are Unibody and you can't take off the 1/4 panel easy or else our lives would be much easier.
Ok so good news, i went to the shop today...
and i got a estimate, which is aprox 1000 for my whole car.
Which to me i guess is not that bad being how bad my car is, i have rust all around the rear wheels, up to the gas tang, in the wheel wells. the lower part of the rear panels are gone, inside the door rocker on the floor is rusted. All on both sides, one side is worse so that one side is 600, and other is 400... for now im going to do just do the worse one, and then get the other done in like 1 month. If you wanna see how my car looks now you can im me,ill show you how bad it is..
Hes going to pretty much cut out all the rust then just weld on new metal.
Then bondo it and prime it. But yah This guy has stacks and stacks of pictures of restorations he's done and they look excelent. So i think once my car is done it will look great, when both sides are done im going to create a webpage for like before and after....
and i got a estimate, which is aprox 1000 for my whole car.
Which to me i guess is not that bad being how bad my car is, i have rust all around the rear wheels, up to the gas tang, in the wheel wells. the lower part of the rear panels are gone, inside the door rocker on the floor is rusted. All on both sides, one side is worse so that one side is 600, and other is 400... for now im going to do just do the worse one, and then get the other done in like 1 month. If you wanna see how my car looks now you can im me,ill show you how bad it is..
Hes going to pretty much cut out all the rust then just weld on new metal.
Then bondo it and prime it. But yah This guy has stacks and stacks of pictures of restorations he's done and they look excelent. So i think once my car is done it will look great, when both sides are done im going to create a webpage for like before and after....
...I bet you wish you just spent a lil xrta and found a rust free car..still gonna have bondo after he welds metal in
At least ur saving it and doing it the right way
At least ur saving it and doing it the right way
I cut mine out with a die grinder and then filled it with glass. While I was at it I went ahead and molded the back bumper in. It takes lots of bracing but it gives a clean look.


