i have a 95 gsr and im trying to wire up the IAB...im using a crx si engine harness so it doesnt have a IAB plug on it...luckily i found a plug off another harness that fits the IAB...my question is, how do I know which wire on the IAB goes to the ecu???

one wire goes to A17...so where does the other wire go? ground it? or 12v source???

 

Well what car is it going in.Im not a swap expert but if its going into a crx then you wount be using a gsr ecu which would mean the ecu wont be looking for the IAB's.

 

its going into a 91 Crx, It's converted to OBD1 so Im using the 95 GSR ECU...

 

Ok so i think you would treat this like it was a 5gen civic.Click the link and it will tell you everything you need.

http://hybrid2.honda-perf.org/tech/info.html#B18EG6

 

ok, yea...one wire goes to A17...but where does the other wire go?

 

How many wires do you have?

 

ok to wire up the IAB to the ecu...we use A17...now where do we put the other end of the wire to...i mean like which wire to the engine harness..or do we just go straight to the IAB itself?? i dont have anyclue about this either...so please help all you eg owners with b18c1's

thanks in advance!

 

help?

 

I just made this conversion harness for my friend's B18C/Rex with my OBD1 converion.. I chipped his P28 and made this but I didn't wire up the IAB... I personally hate the IAB's so I just pulled out the entire IAB plate.. (most people disagree with me on this but that's the one downside I find with the B18C1 manifold) To me first the motor seems to bog when VTEC engages because (atleast with the P72 ECU) it's too damn low.. then it doesn't pull until the IAB's open up 1300rpm later... We may lose bottom end but I'm goin to put his car on the dyno sometime to see what we are making... As for wiring up the IAB's... You're right, the OBD1 ECU pinout is A17... Since you're running the OBD1-nonOBD jumper there are several different ways you could wire it.. I don't know if you did but I made my friend's jumper so I knew what wires were needed and which ones weren't.. Anythinng that was not going to be used I didn't add in.. (PSPSW, A/C clutch, etc..) even the IAB's.. I am hella picky when it comes to wiring and everything has to be perfect so in your case I would pull apart both the interior wiring harness and the motor loom just to add that one wire if you really want your IAB's.... After I converted his car to MPI about a year ago when i first dropped in a stock B16A I haven't touched the interior harness and all the OBD1 conversion mods were done to the motor loom.... This being said if you still want to add the IAB's there are two different ways to do it... Run a line straight off your OBD1 A17 pinout through any point in the firewall and directly to the IAB solenoid connector... The other way is the way I said... If I were to wire up the IAB's I would add it into the harness convertor so that there were no external wires coming off (As i said there are many extra nonOBD points that you could use because they do not apply to the OBD1 ECU) then add in the wire, connectors, etc to have an OE looking harness... If you need any more help let me know... Here are a few pics of the harness from the beginning of last week till Wednesday when I finished... Peace



Also if you decide that you don't wanna wire up your IAB's just for the mean time, pull off the vacuum line running to the diaphram... (this will not let the IAB's close upon starting)

 

ok, so one wire goes to A17, I know that...but the IAB plug has two wires...where does the other wire go???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by See Are X &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, so one wire goes to A17, I know that...but the IAB plug has two wires...where does the other wire go???</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

On an OBD1 ECU A17 is the ground trigger for the IAB meaning that the other wire comes from a 12volt+ source... In your case you can tap off the dizzy main power or on an actual OBD1 wiring harness, the junction connector... An OBD2 ECU is the exact opposite, the ECU supplies the output voltage where the other end goes to ground... In the case of OBD1 if you are not running an inline resistor pack with low impedance injectors you can also tap off their main power... If you ARE running an inline resistor pack tap off the power before the box... It's all up to how you do it so long as you are feeding 12volt+... I like it to look OE or better so the CLEANER you can do it the NICER it'll be Just my $0.02, and let me know if you need anything else... Peace