Everyone with aftermarket cams: what retainers are you using?
Ok, I have my cams, cam gears, and valve springs on the way. But I think I need to get some retainers to go with them...
Anyone have suggestions on what to use?
I was thinking Jun, since Toda doesn't have retainers... But many use portflow or crower. I've heard about galling with the portflow retainers, but now they have nitride treated portflow Ti retainers. This apparently cures that problem?
What is everyone using?
Thanks.
well bigger cams, w/ more lift, w/ stock valve springs you will not be able to
take full advantage of cams like toda or june, due to the fact that vtec starts on those cams around upper 6K, and if you go over the suggested redline on stock valve springs, you can easily float a valve and lead to a blown motor, well this from my experience and research ERic
take full advantage of cams like toda or june, due to the fact that vtec starts on those cams around upper 6K, and if you go over the suggested redline on stock valve springs, you can easily float a valve and lead to a blown motor, well this from my experience and research ERic
i was told that the itr stock valve springs were good til 9000rpm's and if i do change the springs are the stock retainers ok?
[Modified by ITR 01-0557, 5:03 PM 6/6/2001]
[Modified by ITR 01-0557, 5:03 PM 6/6/2001]
i mean if your goin to spend the money for toda or jun, or whatever dual valve spring kit, then go ahead and invest in better <my suggestion titanium> retainers while you u have everything apart, i learned the hard way when you try to cut corners, as far as stock R valve springs being able to handle up to 9K, forget about it, they may be ok for a lil bit, but something is bound to give way w/ out a doubt, like i said in the above response
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I have JUN cams, JUN valvesprings, and a JUN ECU. I rev to 9k. I considered getting JUN retainers, but at $350+ it isn't worth it. Crower's retainers are the lightest available and are only $150. The crowers are good up to 10k RPM and are designed to take the lift from cams that are more agressive than JUN or Toda.
NOT SUBSTANTIATING RUMORS HERE but weren't some guys experiencing problems with Crower valvetrains and Spec B's! Was it just the valvesprings and/or retainer thickness too?
[Modified by RStoR, 8:51 PM 6/6/2001]
[Modified by RStoR, 8:51 PM 6/6/2001]
hey NAB20C5 i have Spoon cams what do you think about these.Im prob. going to get the spoon valve springs
[Modified by ITR 01-0557, 6:43 PM 6/6/2001]
[Modified by ITR 01-0557, 6:43 PM 6/6/2001]
yeah the duration and lift from what i've seen and have been told are similar to those of the TOda A's and the stock ITR valve train will be fine up to 8400 RPM, as far as the spoon balanced one's that i don't know, again getting the correct parts is one thing, but instalation and tuning is another...Eric
?
Mike, how much do these run
I have Ferrea Titanium Retainers, Havent installed them yet though.
Mike, how much do these run
I run JUN valvetrain (springs/retainers) with my Toda B's.
The retainers were supposed to be nitride treated, but Yoshio Kinoshita (the guy I bought them from) had trouble getting the coating done at a reasonable price.
God from Godspeed may be able to get nitride treated ones for you.
The retainers were supposed to be nitride treated, but Yoshio Kinoshita (the guy I bought them from) had trouble getting the coating done at a reasonable price.
God from Godspeed may be able to get nitride treated ones for you.
Big Phat R, looking at your sig, I am very impressed by your mods. A lot of what I have in mind, I've already saved up for most of the Mugen parts, and should have enough in about 6-10 months for the rest to put things together for next year's track season.
A couple of questions for you:
1. Have you dynoed the car? I am thinking you must be running 190-200 whp (220-230 bhp)?
2. Have the mods made things less bearable for daily driving? I am sure your car is awesome on the track, but for daily driving, is it still as much fan as when it was just bone stock? In other words, you didn't end up messing things up for this already finely tuned car? That's the one thing I am afraid of, with so many engine and suspension upgrades in mind, I don't want to ruin the car. My guess is, your car must be better than ever.
[Modified by fso_BamBam, 7:38 AM 6/13/2001]
A couple of questions for you:
1. Have you dynoed the car? I am thinking you must be running 190-200 whp (220-230 bhp)?
2. Have the mods made things less bearable for daily driving? I am sure your car is awesome on the track, but for daily driving, is it still as much fan as when it was just bone stock? In other words, you didn't end up messing things up for this already finely tuned car? That's the one thing I am afraid of, with so many engine and suspension upgrades in mind, I don't want to ruin the car. My guess is, your car must be better than ever.
[Modified by fso_BamBam, 7:38 AM 6/13/2001]
I run Portflow, run the car to well over 9000 at the strip. All of my clients, that I have supplied valve springs to, use Portflow too.
Jason
Jason
Big Phat R, looking at your sig, I am very impressed by your mods. A lot of what I have in mind, I've already saved up for most of the Mugen parts, and should have enough in about 6-10 months for the rest to put things together for next year's track season.
A couple of questions for you:
1. Have you dynoed the car? I am thinking you must be running 190-200 whp (220-230 bhp)?
2. Have the mods made things less bearable for daily driving? I am sure your car is awesome on the track, but for daily driving, is it still as much fan as when it was just bone stock? In other words, you didn't end up messing things up for this already finely tuned car? That's the one thing I am afraid of, with so many engine and suspension upgrades in mind, I don't want to ruin the car. My guess is, your car must be better than ever.
[Modified by fso_BamBam, 7:38 AM 6/13/2001]
A couple of questions for you:
1. Have you dynoed the car? I am thinking you must be running 190-200 whp (220-230 bhp)?
2. Have the mods made things less bearable for daily driving? I am sure your car is awesome on the track, but for daily driving, is it still as much fan as when it was just bone stock? In other words, you didn't end up messing things up for this already finely tuned car? That's the one thing I am afraid of, with so many engine and suspension upgrades in mind, I don't want to ruin the car. My guess is, your car must be better than ever.
[Modified by fso_BamBam, 7:38 AM 6/13/2001]
I'm going to the dyno this Saturday. Finding dyno time in my area is hard as there is only one place here in Vancouver and another in Tacoma (which is a 2+ hr drive away that doesn't take weekend appointments). I'm hoping for around 200 whp. The last time I dynoed the car it made 188 SAE whp on stock cams and head. I've port/polished the head and installed Spec B's in the meantime.
I still daily drive the car. Roads here in Vancouver for the most part are good. Believe it or not, my CD player never skips even with nearly triple the stock rear spring rate and a huge rear antisway bar.
The car's handling is awesome now. It really rotates nicely and I can easily throttle steer the car on the turns. My only complaint is a lack of a tall cruising gear for highway trips.
[Modified by Big Phat R, 7:47 AM 6/15/2001]
Big Phat R;
Why did you have your $1300 ECU re-programmed and, and not just buy a GSR ECU for $200 and have that re-programmed. Not flaming just curious, it seems that you gave a $1300 ECU no market value. Or is it now possible to have the Mugen Program put back on it, last I heard you couldn't restore the Mugen ECU.
Why did you have your $1300 ECU re-programmed and, and not just buy a GSR ECU for $200 and have that re-programmed. Not flaming just curious, it seems that you gave a $1300 ECU no market value. Or is it now possible to have the Mugen Program put back on it, last I heard you couldn't restore the Mugen ECU.
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