So, I determined that the Hondata had the eeprom in backwards when I bought it, so...

Went to Jotech today and Tony burned a new base map to a new chip since we found that the old one was fried. Get home, car still won't start. Check S200 box, the LED is doing the slow blink.

Now, when the eeprom was backwards, the car would start in limp mode and the Hondata LED was on solid.

Hondata manual says that this is a communication problem between the Hondata and ECU, either the ROM is incorrect or is installed backwards. Well, it's neither of these, so WTF do I do now?

 

dammit i was just getting ready to call you hoping that fixed the problem.

 

Bend over and get AEM EMS....

 

Is your CEL on?

 

What ecu are you using?

 

Get a spare ecu and try the stuff on that.

I have a PR4 you could borrow to test. The O2 heater circuit on the ecu is fried so you will get a o2 sensor cel, but it wont go into limp mode. Its already chipped.

edit: I run P75 programs in my PR4... they are compatible.


[Modified by UberTeg, 10:12 PM 3/5/2003]

 

You are SURE the eeprom was in backwards?
if it was i dont think the light would be solid.
The mark on the eeprom should be toward the ecu plugs.

 

Yeah, I've got a P75 and the CEL is on, but doesn't it stay on all the time if the ignition is ON but the car is not running?

Steve, yeah, the #1 pin (or notch in chip however you like to look at it) was facing away from the ECU plugs when I got it. That's why I fried my chip, because I didn't think to look at the manual and swapped the chips, plugging the new one in the same way the old one was.


[Modified by Hatchblack, 10:16 PM 3/5/2003]

 

Cut J1 and see if the car runs. If you have larger injectors you will run really rich but it sould still run unless u have 800cc or larger. Cutting J1 makes your ecu use the stock program located inside of the ecu btw. If your car runs fine, then its another bad eprom or bad eprom installation

 

I used to get it to start in limp when the eeprom was backwards (before I knew it was) but cut J1 and still nothing. Jesus Christ...where is my FMU when I need it...

 

It could be the eeprom itself.

Go back and ask Tony to reburn the chip and to reburn it a 2nd time. I find that sometimes the eeprom doesn't get written the first time on the pocket programmer that is why I usually burn it two times.

HTH

edit- please make sure the notch of the chip is facing the ecu plugs.


[Modified by ekb18c, 2:56 PM 3/5/2003]

 

Yah this has happend to me many times. GOod thing my batronix burner checks the eprom after its burned to verify its 100% burned Its saved my *** many times, heh.

 

Yeah..I'm getting the Batronix eventually...nice $30 burner....better than the $150 PP2 that Hondata sells for $180

 

This sounds very similar to when i got some bad eeproms awhile back. I got three of them. I was going crazy trying to figure out what was going, finally i borrowed a friends extra eeprom and ever thing was fine again.

BTW, I asked about your ecu because i tested Prophet's last saturday and the actual ecu was bad. It was one of the p28's with the obd-2 interface on the ecu.

 

The cel should go off after 2 sec. like when you have a stock ECU in. Sounds like a bad burn. I burn mine twice as well to make sure its on their. I have burned it once and it not stick.

 

hmm Batronix checks and verifies that the chip has been written 100%??

hmmm interesting!

Anymore info on this burner? A link would help.

Thanks!

 

Industry secrets right here...

http://batronix.com/electronic/e-shop.shtml

My PIC16PRO that I used to make PSX modchips with auto verifies also...too bad the 29C256 is not one of the few EEPROMs that it supports!

 

Ummm, I burn 29c256's with it.. infact, all of my chips are 29c256's


edit: if you buy the batronix, spend the extra $8 for the ZIF socket! I would go insane w/out it! Also put a ZIF socket on your ecu.


[Modified by UberTeg, 11:17 PM 3/5/2003]

 

Yeah I know it does, I was talking about my burner, the PIC16PRO...made for PICs but it supports some EEPROMs also.

 

ic, on me

 

i have the xtronics and it verifies on each burn as well.

 

Have you tried cutting J12 on the ECU? Hondata mentioned about the ECU communication issue with the S200, and the slow blinking LED is one of the indications.

 

we usually dont encounter that issue. ive found taht cutting j12 only helps with datalogging.

 

My xtronics PP always gives me problems! I never know if it burns on the first attempt so I always burn it 2 times.

 

Can I get an AMEN