Ok first off, i did a search.. and a little confused cause of my setup..

setup is as follows:
1995 usdm honda civic ex
1998 usdm b18c1 motor w/ factory harness obd2
94-95 OBD1 p72 ecu

what do i need to do to wire my iab(secondary butterflys) the correct way w/ my setup? i moved a20 to a17 already but i dont think its working..

a little reading said to ground a20 and then 12volts to the black wire on the iab sensor?? what do i need to do, i dont want to go choppy choppy just yet??

i dont have ANY CEL lights but dont think the iab will cause one either will it??? thanks everyone

 

The IAB has 2 wires. Black/Yellow gets run to 12V power source, The Pink/Blue gets run to A17.

Pin A20 is for your EVAP Purge Solenoid. Run the Yellow/Black wire off the EVAP Purge Solenoid to a 12V power source as well.

 

click here

 

Thanks Slurp56 i have just heard its 12vt or ground activating depending on what obd version of the ecu you are using but ill do this tomorrow and to test it just rev the car to 5700 rpms right and you will see the iab valve open up correctly??

and Spoon Hybrid.. i know i wanted to get the skunk2 IM but i needed to get intake first for the swap and got the AEM V2 (its badass btw) and i will probably eventually get the skunk2 once track time comes around again in the spring

 

Skunk2 manifold is such a halfass way of wiring. People get so shaken up over 2 wires it dumbfounds me. There is absolutely no reason to drop another $360 at the time of the swap to avoid 2 wires. The swap itself is expenive enough to be adding all these extra costs to it.

 

i agree.. im great with wiring been a car audio installer for a while now.. just need to know the right wires and how to do it so i dont **** up the sensor.. skunk2 IM does help a lot w/ high end racing for a track but i have a BIG fat eg coupe that needs a diet its not racing right now till i get zex or turbo later on..

 

haha OK captian obvious.

i guess you totally missed my point. the skunk2 manifold is one of the first things i would do to a GSR motor. with that said, why not just skrew the wires, and jam the secondaries open until you got 300 bucks?

 

obd1=ground activated through ecu
obd2=power activated through ecu

red/blue wire is power activated through ecu
black is perminately grounded
thats how it should work on obd2 ecu

so take red/blue and run that to 12V+
run black to A17 on the obd1 ecu

that way the ecu is still controlling iab on the ground side

now question is where should i grab 12V+ from?

 

so is the black colored wire coming off this a 12v(+) signal or a ground(-)? I am kinda curious to know myself (for an EG chassis - OBD1)

 

this is for an obd2 B18C1 motor i'm talking about
black is perminent ground
reb/blue is to the ecu

 

so then whats the deal for OBD1?

 

for obd1 you just wire it as per instructions (A20 into A17).

obd1 motor + obd1 ecu = neg switch IAB
obd2 motor + obd1 ecu = obd1 ecu trying to ground the IAB to switch it on when the obd2 IAB is looking for 12V+ to switch it on

its just a minor compadibilty issue.

how i'm gonna do it is...

wire 12V+ to one end of the solenoid and A17 at ECU to the NEG side of solenoid. so the circuit is totally dependant on the signals of A17 grounding.

ummm does that sound right?

 

does the b18c not require the EVAP purge solenoid (A20) input?

 

i didnt hook up the evap purge i thought that was only for califonia emmisons.. am i wrong?

 

ok i got it working correctly..

my setup is 95 civic ex obd1, 98 b18c1 obd2 motor, 95 p72 obd1 ecu

the red/blue wire goes to a17 at the ecu, and the black wire coming off the iab seloind goes to 12volt switched.. you can go to the yellow/black wire coming off the injector harness..

thanks everyone

 

apparently no one hooks it up
its strictly for emissions and will have no effect on engine performance

 

Show me a pic. I'm confuessed as hell now. I don't even know how the IAB looks like or where located. I did the wiring myself. It seems to work for me. My engine is a OBD II and I'm using a OBD I ECU as well. I ran a wire from the wire harness post of the driver side to A17 on the ECU. That's all I did. Can someone tell me, do I have to switch A17 with A20?

 

i will try to do a write up on this later on tonight w/ pics to back it up for anyone that may be confused..

 

if thats all you did
then your iab isn't working

 

Thanks. Can someone show me where is the IAB located?

 

driver side
under the intake manifold
right above the altenator

there is a dashpot ontop of the intake manifold. follow the vacuum line

 

do as i posted and it will work.. you have the same setup as me..

 

That's why I'm running some shitty times at track. I did 14.7 at 94MPH. I will redo my wires this weekend to see any improvements. Thanks all.

 

yeah, we did a swap in my friends car with a B18C, thats why i was wondering as well. I connected the BLACK wire that is on the sensor to a ground (thinking black means ground ), but aparently I was wrong. I will go fix this today. It's weird, it hasn't thrown a code for the IAB sensor even though it's grounded and not hooked to a 12v source. So to get this straight, the black wire goes to a 12v source and the pink wire goes to A17 on the ECU?

 

correct

i guess its because iab has nothing to do with emissions or major engine operation that it's not valuable to have its own code