I've got a SOHC D16Y8, and my mods are as follows:

AEM cold air intake
DC Sports 4-2-1 1 piece ceramic header (thanks splitime )
HKS Hiper cat-back exhaust
B&M CommandFlo FPR
Denso Iridium spark plugs and MSD wires

I'm contemplating purchasing a chipped ECU, but I know nothing about the differences between the different programs (anyone have any good info. links for them?), and/or buying an Apexi V-AFC for better a/f tuning. I might go turbo in the next year or two, but I'm not really sure. What do you guys think I should do?

 

Get the Hondata while its still on sale.

 

Does anyone (kenji, katman, mugen, spoon, whoever) sell a chipped ECU for 96-98 OBD-II civic EXs like mine, without the need of a harness?

 

it is very hard to break the code for obd2 ecu's.. honda has only given one company a patent on reprogramming their obd2 ecu's, and they are located in japan and charge a grip.. i heard.

just get an ECU/Harness from Kenji.

 

i like the jun program

 

well, after re-thinking about your set up.. you basically have just bolt ons.
i think a V-AFC would be best for you right now.. i dont think converting to obd1 for bolt ons is really worth it unless you plan to go hondata down the future, which can basically tune any set up even if you go b-series.

 

Actually B18C-EJ1 does: I tested it and it works great heres the link:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=424583

 

Thanks for letting me know that!

Problem is, for that price I could get a OBD-I with harness instead. I think I'll just go that route.

But yeah, maybe just a V-AFC would be the better option.

 

OBD1 ecu w/ a conversion harness is such a great way to go. You get the ability to tune the crap out of your motor without getting all the hassles of OBD2 (stalling , constant CEL's).

A chipped OBD2 ecu is fine and dandy if you don't plan on touching camgears or fuel curves.

I have a V-AFC on top of my Kenji-programmed p28, running big fuel changes and big cam overlap. She idles (roughly, but she idles) and no CELs to be seen.

Kenji=the man

 

what about that B18c-EJ1 guy? are his ECUs any good? How much is it for a chipped ECU and a conversion harness? Is it just plug and play, or is there any wiring involved? I'm learning new things here everyday

 

stalling? you can build plenty of obd2 motors with the obd2 ecu without stalling.

who chips obd2 ecu's? i need to know.

does your idle bounce around during warm up? if you are obd2 and are running and ob2-1 conv. harness + obd1 ecu, you need to unplug your EVAP purge solenoid.


[Modified by jonas, 6:36 PM 3/3/2003]

 

also, how will advancing my timing with the AEM cam gear affect the ECU's performance? Should I have it programmed ahead of time to account for the degree advancement?

 

no, you tune your cam gears to your motor/ecu settings, not your ecu to your cam gear settings.

 

Yeah his programs are pretty good from my experience. The conversion harnesses are just like any other obd2-obd1 harness. IM him if you have any other questions.

 

I have few programs for the SOHC VTEC which I dynoed and did some testing from very mild to wild programs. don't think you can beat these prices. all ecu with waranty + 3 program of your choice.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=430594

 

I think hondata needs more dealers who are able to tune it, everyone near me charges stupid prices to make it realistic for most people to afford. Also if you have the s100 or s200 you are not able to tune on the fly, but need to go back to the dyno, $300 to tune it everytime to go to the dyno....sigh, well you get the point

 

you can tune it yourself via laptop if you have the datalogger, rom editor and pocket programmer (not that i know how to). but the price obviously goes up.

 

with all those extras hondata comes out to close to a $1000, in which case you can do much better by going with other alternatives.

 

jonas--sorry, I read your 1st post in this thread wrong. I thought I read that chipped OBD2 was available stateside.

As for my issues, after dynoing w/ stock obd2 setup and tuning camgears (intake +2.5, exhaust -4) and bigtime v-afc tuning, my car ran like absolute garbage. It stalled constantly, even after warmup. The normal practice of leaning it out at idle in order to stop the stalling would throw even more CEL's. If it idled too long w/ the camgears overlapped less, (intake +2.5, exhaust 0) it would still throw CEL's. In hot weather, it would throw CEL's for the sheer hell of it.

OBD2 is not for me.

My evap purge is already disconnected. The idle is lumpy/shaky, but steady. It doesn't surge massively at idle. This is just fine with me.

I'm satisfied with my setup and now I plan to leave it alone.

 

oic, well then i'm stumped.
but you're happy with the set up - results atleast

 

Yeah--weird, but "whatever". I was never able to get an answer from anyone running overlapped camgears and an OBD2 ecu. After a guy with an ITR and the same woes told me obd1 was the answer, I became a convert.

 

you can also get up with locash from the honda hybrid site or at place racing i think, and he does ecu's as well and run a vtec controller, i did worked fine