I have a 99 Si and I am changing the brake pads and brake fluid. If anyone could post the torque specs for the two bolts that hold the caliper on and the two bolts that hold the bracket on, I would really appreciate. to anyone who can help.

Also, is there any special way I should break normal Honda replacement brake pads in? Thanks.

 

bump

 

there is only 1 bolt (on each side) that you need to remove when changing brake pads.

and the torque specs for them is as hard as you can.

 

Oh come on man... if I pulled as hard as I can, I'd either pull the car off the jackstands or break the head off the bolt. The spec, if it's the one I'm thinking of, is 24 ft lbs.

 

you know what i mean. atleast i hope you do.

just turn it until it feels nice and tight.

24 foot pounds doesn't seem like enough.

 

It's what my manual says. Ever bolt has a torque spec. Every single one. Abiding by these specs is what sets us technicians and tuners apart from the shop monkeys and oil changers. *shrug* I try not to tell anyone on here "tight enough" because that's an opinion and is subject to personal interpretation. Some guys here might think that if tight enough is good, even tighter is better, and the next thing you know, they're on here bitching and moaning about how to remove a broken bolt.

Rule of thumb for torque specs:
6mm bolt- 6 to 9 ft lbs.
8mm bolt- 14 to 21 ft lbs.
10mm bolt- 28 to 40 ft lbs.
12mm bolt- 50 to 71 ft lbs.
14mm bolt- 80 to 140 ft lbs.

Note: these measurements are the thread diameter, NOT the head diameter.


[Modified by Loco Honkey, 2:06 AM 3/1/2003]

 

verry well put honkey, tight is diffirent for everyone, and when it come to the braking in of a pad ill xplain it to ya the right way and the only way when new pads are install on a car, the pad will act verry weird will xperiance alot of brake dust and spots on the rotor this is due to the transfer of matirial when the pad heats up it actully transfer it self on to the rotor this is normal for a week or a bit longer after the should feel like they are getting stronger and starting to bite beter as a recomendation stay away from organic,semi metalics rivited pads. carbon fiver with semi metalic are the way to go. They have the best from both worlds the streght of the semi and they can handle more heat friction cause the carbon fiver

 

Front caliper bolts 24 ft-lbs
Front mounting bracket bolts - 80 ft-lbs
Rear caliper bolts - 17 ft-lbs
Rear mounting bracket bolts - 40 ft-lbs

 

I’m doing the brakes on my ef and I just torqued the front caliper bolt to 24 ft/lb and the bolt snapped. Half is now stuck in the bracket, sooo I guess 24ft/lb is too much :/

 

I know this is an old thread but I created an account and logged in to mention the following about the torque specs.

24 ft/lbs is for front caliper bolts with ABS. If it's without ABS it's only 20 ft/lbs.


I'm noting some torque specs below related to brake jobs on the Honda Civic 1992-2000

Wheel Lug nuts 80 ft/lbs
Brake Disc Screws 7 ft/lbs (84 in/lbs)
Parking Brake Lever 6-10 clicks
Brake Hose Banjo bolt 25 ft/lbs
Caliper bolts Front (non ABS) 20 ft/lbs
Caliper bolts Front (ABS) 24 ft/lbs
Caliper Bracket Front 80 ft/lbs
Caliper bolts Rear 17 ft/lbs
Caliper Bracket Rear 28 ft/lbs


Hope this helps a future user.