Hey guys, been doing a little research, but could use some help..

The B&M FPR doesnt seem to fit the prelude (no application)
AEM is just plain pricy
Anyone use the Holly brand FPR?

Also, how do you mount a guage on a 4th gen (where) and where can I get a decent gauge setup?

Thanks guys, gotta lean this pig out!

 

B&M will fit the prelude FPR just fine Just get the civic/integra one (the FPR's are almost identical between the prelude/civic/integra, the return nipple just comes off different)
You can get the B&M gauge as well ($30), I put mine coming off the top of the fuel filter with a 90 degree elbow and it worked great, they even supply a banjo bolt that has a 1/8 NPT port in the top of it
Brian

 

The B&M will fit your 4th gen. I had it on mine before. Just like firedrake said, get the civic/integra fpr.

 

http://www.solid-technology.com/tech...elude_fpr.html

Here's an old writeup I did a LONG time ago for hondaprelude.com......I converted it from a word .doc file (yeah, I'm really lazy) so it'll take a little while to load the bigass pictures......
Brian

 

There isn't a chance in hell I'd ever use B&M again if I had the choice.

I can't turn it DOWN enough with my fuel pump.

I need an AEM fpr and an AEM fuel rail. Anyone have one up for sale?

 

If you assemble the B&M unit correctly, you'll never have any problems with it (people who complain about leaking didn't put theirs together properly) but the problem you're talking about is pretty common, the fuel return for the stock FPR can't keep up with high flow pumps......you can fix that problem by drilling a little hole in the stock FPR to let more fuel go by though:
http://www.theoldone.com/articles/regulator/
I'm lazy and just got the AEM and put in a larger dump jet
Brian

 

If you ask me, I'd never buy a B&M or similar one that involves hacking a stock FPR. I'd probably buy an AEM.

 

that and I'm lazy.

 

Do you guys know if this is common when you drill that hole in the FPR when useing a B&M and a high flow pump. Every time I turn the ignition key to the on position before I start the car the Fuel pressure will go up and then It will drop back to zero, but when I turn the car on which takes a little longer than usual the pressure holds fine. Is this usual, I'm thinking it is.

 

Thanks for the info guys, I'll give the B&M a try, w/ the guage..

 

When you drill the hole in the fpr it means it will not hold pressure when the pump is off, so yes, the drop in pressure between when you first turn the key and when you actually turn the car over is normal for a drilled out fpr.


[Modified by DirtyLude, 9:50 AM 2/27/2003]

 

Any reason to drill out the FPR w/ a bolt on mods setup.. (no FI, cams)

 

Nope, only need to drill the FPR if you're running an aftermarket pump
Brian

 

I picked up a B&M adj. fpr for cheap, but it didn't come w/ the spring. Is it possible to just use the spring from the stock fpr?

 

I had a B&M ended up selling it and I just recently picked up an AEM fpr, AEM fuel rail and AEM fuel filter and imo the AEM fpr is a lot better than the B&M. It is A LOT easier to adjust fuel pressure, it looks a lot nicer and the AEM is a better choice for those high hp cars... aeromotive is also a good one for the fi or high hp n/a cars...

-Mike

 

get a complete FPR, hacking together a b&m one is just a little too homemade (i think). If you have have invested alot of $$$ into you engine, i think that putting a FPR that is built to handle higher pressures is a better idea than modifying the stock FPR, and having a higher chance or rupturing the diaphram, causing many more problems


[Modified by Quiklude, 6:53 AM 2/28/2003]

 

So if the spring that came w/ the FPR is gone, can you use the stock one?

 

i have seen too many b&m's break. the spring is crap. if you shop around you can usually find the aem fpr for a little more than 100 bux. i know alot of people use the areomotive (sp?) unit.

or if you wana be getto/cheap you can put a small hose clamp on the return hose to squish it and bring the pressure up. most people put the guage ontop of the fuel filter..... the b&m guage is like 30 bux

 

the B&M guage is crap, i have on directly on my rail, and the little plastic lense fell off. the AEM is konda picey, but worth it, just contact Viren from VS Racing, he's has great prices

 

anyone runing the aeromotive?

 

most of the h22/accord guys on hondasociety are running the aeromotive. they seem to be happy w/it.

 

i considered it, but unless you are pushin 1000hp or more, it's not nessecary

 

hell the aem regulator is good for 1000+ hp... the mopar/phatrides srt4 is running the aem regulator and they were claming 1000+ hp when i talked to em sunday at the track

 

Dang, so hard to get a question answered! Does ANYONE know for sure?

 

I know the AEM fpr is good and all, but I am concidering getting an aeromotive FPR ( I think its the one that mounts on the firewall or wherever or maybe they all do, I haven't done a whole lot of research on they to be honest, but). Are the areomotive cheaper than the AEM, I seen the aeromotvie FPR at Summit Racing for about $130. I want to know if I can still use it on my car to replace my drilled out FPR B&M set, and just because its cheaper than the AEM Fpr, can I use it on my basic bolt on setup for right now until i go forced induction. Because the drilled FPR is annoying.