4wire o2 installed . sweet
just installed some ntk 4 wire o2 sensors in my b16 . i picked them up free and brand new (from a certain factory that makes cars in tn) hehe. i replugged both sensors in there location. i then grounded the four grounds to the tranny slinger over the clutch actuator arm. i then ran the constant power to the ecu fuse in the black box on the shock tower . waallllaaaa! no codes and runnin good (on my mugen ecu) . i haven`t tried it on my stock pr3 yet . maybe tommorrow. gonna see if my gas mileage changes any. i geuss nissan uses the same o2 sensors as honda .ntk brand. (UHOH did i say nissan , you didn`t hear that did you)
i then ran the constant power to the ecu fuse in the black box on the shock tower
just some things to think about
mike
also, someone correct me if i'm wrong cuz i would hate to pass out some bad info
[Modified by crx_91si, 10:48 PM 2/22/2003]
Ummm... you should check those blocks, I'm pretty sure that those are ALWAYS on, meaning your O2's staying nice and toasty warm right this second... I might be wrong though
crx_91si is right, it's meant to be computer-controlled, but I don't think it'll cause that many problems. I've been looking into doing something like this myself if I could ever afford a 4-wire O2.
crx_91si is right, it's meant to be computer-controlled, but I don't think it'll cause that many problems. I've been looking into doing something like this myself if I could ever afford a 4-wire O2.
http://ludicrous2_0.tripod.com/how_to/oxy/ this page gives a pretty good explination of the whole 4-wire O2 sensor thing. just read it for content, not application. good luck
i still dunno know, i mean i think that If the O2 is constantly being heated, the ecu is gonna get funky readings from the sensor since its being heated all the time. The ecu takes this F 'ed up info and regulates the A/F mixture according to that. This may not be so good.
I say just to be safe you should run a toggle switch & relay with power being supplied by tapping into a acc. power source. Flip it on when you first start the car or let it idle for a while, and then flip it off while cruising and doing regular driving. I think this would be safer and more effictive
anyway, good luck, keep us posted
mike
I say just to be safe you should run a toggle switch & relay with power being supplied by tapping into a acc. power source. Flip it on when you first start the car or let it idle for a while, and then flip it off while cruising and doing regular driving. I think this would be safer and more effictive
anyway, good luck, keep us posted
mike
if your running a mugen ecu(or program) it's probably not reading you o2 sensor any ways. they run in open loop all the time.
and the heater is just to get it into operating range then is suposed to be turned off
just my 2 cents
[Modified by evilxkid, 10:15 AM 2/23/2003]
and the heater is just to get it into operating range then is suposed to be turned off
just my 2 cents
[Modified by evilxkid, 10:15 AM 2/23/2003]
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I've been wanting to do this to help out cold starting and pre-warm drivability on my Turbo B16a with a Z-Dyne gold...
I'd definitely put a toggle switch on the dash to turn off the heater once the ECU senses the engine is "Warm". I can seriously tell this easily, cause I keep my Cold Rev Limit at 5K rpm.
I'd definitely put a toggle switch on the dash to turn off the heater once the ECU senses the engine is "Warm". I can seriously tell this easily, cause I keep my Cold Rev Limit at 5K rpm.
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