I've been having distributor problems with my car but was able to get one yesterday, so I took my car to Dynospot for dyno-tuning...Here's the dynosheet

Those were conservative tuning and could be bumped up to 200 whp by replacing CAI and the use of racing gas. (thats what Lawrence said). Anyway, after tuning on my way home, driving about 70 mph, the car bogged again and motor wouldnt rev pass 3000 rpm. I manage to inch my way to my sisters house (20 miles away) and left my car in her garage overnight. I dont know whats wrong because this is the 3rd distributor in the last 7 days...

 

Nice dyno numbers. Would mind sharing what your setup consists of?

 

B18A LS block, US ITR pistons (.25 oversize), shotpeened rods, balanced crank, hot tanked block, 94 GSR head, CTR cams, ITR valvesprings, motion assembly and retainers, lightened flywheel, act clutch, skunk2 intake, 66mm ericks racing tb (port matched), port & polished head, 5 angle valve job, jdm itr header (4-1), test pipe, Greddy SP exhaust, YS1 LSD tranny

 

Is that the JDM 4-1 I contributed?
It's good to see that you got everything together and in, when you bought the header you didn't seem too optimistic time wise on the swap if I remember correctly. But looks like things came together well
What kind of distributor problems are you having, I'm sure some people here may have some helpful insight especially if you're going on your 3 one.

 

i can bet u 10 bucks ur problem its the crank angle sensor
and yes thats inside the dizzy....
if thats the 3rd dizzy u gone .. u gotta say either ur ECU its frying them up... or theres a fault somewhere on ur harness thats causing the dizzy to fry out....
havent u gone OBD1???? if u did.;.. why dont u try another P28 in there... a stock p28 will turn ur car no.. we did it once on my buddys LS/VTEC when it broke the igniter on middle of highway....

BTW nice numbers

 

Nice numbers '

However, its sound like something to do with wiring causing it to short out like that

 

wow thats some pretty sick number using stock honda parts... god i miss my old ls/vtec...




[Modified by dubdeuces, 12:40 PM 2/22/2003]

 

u make my b16 look like poo poo. kinda like comparing my motor to the d15...

oh well...g/l w/that dist.

 

Nice results Irvin. Im really interested in seeing your a/f ratio, did Lawrence give you that sheet at all? Ive been talking with a friend of mine, who gave me a really good Hondata contact, and he told me a few things about the Hondata Stage 2 + PR3 combination that are beginning to make me second-think my purchase. Basically to sum it up extremely briefly, having a Hondata on a PR3 is exactly the same thing as hooking up a VAFC. THe VTEC fuel maps do not carry over to when VTEC engages. Also, as soon as vtec kicks in, the datalogging feature ceases to work because or something to do with the fuel map error. Hondata does not tell you this though. So basically, its a more expensive harder to tune VAFC. Im not sure where im going to go from here with mine, but it looks like you got yours working well so far!

If you can get ahold of a dyno with your a/f ratio on it id be interested to check it out.

-Todd

 

Still runnin non obd...Ima put a stock PR3 and check it out. I read something on the internet about connecting the distributor directly to the ecu. He was having the same problem, replaced the ecu, dizzy and still got the code 4. He did not specify which 2 wires he bypassed and to what pin he connected it to. So thats kinda where I'm at.

 

Exactamundo , the same one I had on my LS motor was dented so I bought yours, good price by the way. (at that time, hehe). Anyway, my builder was taking a long time thats why I wasnt too excited and kinda lost interest, (took 8 mos). Anyway, this is where I'm at, trying to figure this out. Thanks for the props everyone!

Count: too bad Dynospot is closed on weekends, Lawrence mentioned yesterday that the Hondata may have resetted itself. I also asked if I needed to start from scratch if I decide to change from non obd to obd1...and he said no, Hondata can be reinstalled to a P28 or whatever ecu I decide to use.

 

nice numbers bro....if u dont mind me asking how much did it cost you with labor?

 

very nice ! all stock ? no sleeved block ? i may build one i just don`t know yet . io got a b18a in the garage but it needs work .what can i do for a girdle besides that z10 thing . will a gsr fit ? someone said there were some new dowel pins that are tapered to fit now so no drilling . anyone else heard this?

 

$2000 for labor that includes head porting, TB match porting, machine shop charges (honing, hot tank, shot peening, blueprint), assembly...You can add it up plus the parts...Cams, valvesprings, retainers, TB, intake manifold, flywheel, clutch, cam gears etc...

 

who was your engine builder? if you need the pin outs for the dizzy let email me.

 

sick numbers....hope everything works out good for you...good luck

 

Just got back from autocrossing...After working on it til 1:30am, would you believe I was able to get the car to run, not all the way though. I was the first car out (first run, first car), managed to post a clean run then getting back to the grid, car died...pushed to the lot, let it cool down...2 hours later, friends and I were trying to diagnose the problem and played with the dizzy connectors. Wallah, connectors werent getting good contact thats why its heating up and current's jumping all over causing the sensors to f&*k up....cleaned it out, started it up, idled fine, got home safe and sound. Now I'm ready for the next race, hehe.

 

Redstar Racing in Hayward, CA

 

nice numbers man

 

what did it run?

 

damn.. i wish i was able to autocross right now.. oh well..

nice numbers..