Hello, I am going to relocate my battery to the spare wheel area, who has done similar setups and what gauge wires do you recommend? So far I am told of 4gauge, but some insists on a 2.

 

4 is ok, 2 is better. Make sure there's a fuse/breaker within about a foot or so from the battery, for safety in case the main wire get's pinched/grounded in an accident.

 

Go to a welding supplier and get some #2 welding cable. It is cheaper, more pliable and carries the current better.


Note that it is NOT 2awg, but #2 welding cable. It is roughly equivalent to 4awg in thickness but will carry the same current loads as 0awg.

 

The difference between Welding cable and other types is in the jacketing/insulation, and not really the "ampacity." #2 Cable, single conductor will handle 190 Amps, give or take a few. There is no such size as "0AWG." The next size bigger than #1 Cable is 1/0, which'll handle 260 Amps or so. There are many types of jacketing to choose from, which will vary the outer diameter of the cable.

Edit: Calling a wire "#2" is the same as calling it "2 guage" or "2AWG."


[Modified by Mike P., 4:08 PM 2/20/2003]

 

Incorrect.

http://ohm.bu.edu/edf/info/wire-resistance.html

What gauge wire is right below 1awg?
Actually it is 1awg. 0awg is thicker than 1awg. There is no such thing as 1/0.

No it isn't. Call Robert's Oxygen and Welding and ask them if this is the case. I can measure my #2 welding cable conductor's diameter if you would like and we can compare.

EDIT: As I sit here and think I *may* be using #4 welding cable. I will have to check. I can tell you that the # does NOT correlate to the cable awg.

 

After researching a little further, 0 AWG is the equivalent to 1/0 or 1 ought (1 zero). Next size is 2/0 (or 2 ought or 2 zeros). I think the difference we have here is nothing but a little confusion on the language. I have plenty of #2 cable (and 2/0 and 4/0, depending on the need) that we use here at work for television lighting and power distribution. Some of it is labeled #2, and some is labeled 2AWG Entertainment. I'm not sure why, but Welding was commonly used up until it was outlawed in our industry. All of it is mixed and matched in single and three phase distribution systems without concern to how the size is labeled on the jacket.

Edit-just called Roberts. The welders say #2 is just another way of saying 2AWG.

Mike-who's really starting to confuse himself and had to check with the welding industry to see if it's the same for them.

 

That is odd because I referred to the #2 as 2awg and the guy at Robert's whom I bought it from was VERY quick to correct me and say that it was NOT 2awg, but a fair bit thicker.

Symantics perhaps but I still believe that welding cable will carry more of an amp load than what equivalent-sized stereo power wire would (due to the number of strands in the cable, welding is finer but has a lot more). Also, play with both types of cable and tell me which is easier to work with.

Regardless of sizing conventions the welding cable is overall the best choice to use IMO due to price, amp carrying and pliability.

 

I will "fo' sho" agree with you on that. Stereo amp wiring has a softer jacket. (But works just fine on a friend of mine's car) Welding's jacket is tough as ****, yet still plenty flexible. Definitely put the fuse either on the outside of or near the battery.

 

whats amp fuse should be used??

 

I will be wiring my tirewell mounted battery box in the racecar this weekend to the racing master cut-off switch. Had just planned on just hitting Autozone for some pre-made battery cables with normal battery clamps on one end and a loop terminal on the other. They'll need to be about 6 ft. each. You guys think I should do the welding cable instead?

I'll help you with suspension but need someone to hold my hand on 'lectrics.

 

Do you need to run both + and - to the engine bay, or is grounding the battery in the trunk area sufficient? I would guess at running the wire, but I just wanted to make sure.

 

Just ground the battery someplace in the trunk area. No need to run the negative up front. i have mine grounded to the spare tire well jack holder. Be sure to ground to bare metal though. It'll save you some weight as well , cause 15 feet of 2/4 gauge isn't light!

Later, Overkll