Im looking for some Zero gauge Wlding cable, you guys know where to purchase this cheaply?

Anyone have other suggestions as far as battery relocation goes? My reserch says that welding cable is mopre conductive, less voltage drop and more strand count. Also has its toughness.

Basically I guess I am going to take the battery out of the engine bay location, take the Red pos Wire and connect an 200 amp fuse, then run an 0 G wire from it to the trunk.
Then Ground.

 

Most relocation kits( like the ones Summit sell ) use 2 AWG cable, but it really does depend on the current draw of the car.

Might look for the welding cable at local welding supply shops or ebay.
Only suggestion I would make, is to fuse both ends of the cable. This is in case the wires insulation gets stripped or torn somewhere along the run. If the wire is fused under the hood and not within 12-18 inches of the battery, that's 15-20 feet of live cable connected to the battery waiting to burn up.

Just my opinion/thoughts on the matter.

 

There is no reason to use 0ga cable, as mentioned 2ga will do the job, and as mentioned a welding supply shop is your best bet, there are some online places, just make sure your going to get what you think you are.

With 2ga a 200-225 amp fuse as close to the batt. as possible is needed.
Cable should be connected to the starter motor and an 8ga run from the starter motor to the under dash fuse box.94

 

Dude what are you trying to do exactly? Are you trying to do the Big 3 or something? Are you running a high power electrical stereo. IF that the purpose then check on ebay.

 

haha, no. This is an all out racing car, I removed the CD played and all the speakers.

Might be stupid to tell you this, I have already done the relocation, however, might not have done it to specs. I used an 4G Red amp kit wire, I just took the terminal off the battery, hooked this to a 200 amp fuse inline, then ran my 4g wire to the trunk to the batter +, then just grounded it to the trunk latch. I mean, the car runs, voltage seems to be ok.

I didnt do anything with the fuse box or starter, this is what I would like to know.
And I assumed 0G woudl have less voltage drop than 4G, but mabey ill do 2awg.

 

That is definitely not to "spec".

8:1 BATTERIES
All batteries must be securely mounted. Must be of sufficient
capacity to start vehicle at any time.

Batteries may not be relocated into the driver or passenger compartments. Rear firewall of .024- inch steel or .032-inch aluminum (including package tray) required when battery is relocated in trunk. In lieu of rear firewall, battery may be located in a sealed .024-inch-steel, .032-inch-aluminum, or NHRA-accepted poly box.

If sealed box is used in lieu of rear firewall, box may not be used to secure battery and must be vented outside of body. Relocated battery(s) must be fastened to frame or frame structure with a minimum of two 3/8-inch-diameter bolts. (“J” hooks prohibited or must have open end welded shut.) OEM-located batteries without complete OEM hold-down hardware must be secured to OEM battery box/tray using the same 3/8-inch diameter-bolt hold-down method described in previous sentence.

Metal battery hold-down straps mandatory. Strapping tape prohibited.

8:2 DELAY BOXES/DEVICES
Prohibited in all vehicles. A delay box or delay device is defined
as any device (electric, electronic, pneumatic, hydraulic,
mechanical, etc.) built for the express purpose of creating a delay
between release of transbrake or line-loc button, or release of foot
or hand brake, or release of clutch pedal/lever, and the resultant
action of the vehicle.

Changeable vehicle components, legal unto themselves (solenoids,
throttle-linkage components, hoses, springs, etc.), even though the
removal and replacement of that component may affect the
reaction time of the vehicle in relation to the driver action, is not
considered a delay device. Wiring may consist of a single (i.e.,
“one” or “1”) continuous wire from a power source to a switch (or
button), and a single continuous wire from the switch to the
transbrake or line-loc solenoid.

Splices (no quick-disconnect) permitted from the two-step to the solenoid (i.e., between the switch and the solenoid), for data logger and/or nitrous only.

All switches, buttons, wiring, solenoids, etc. must be for normal
automotive use; i.e., not intended to create a delay (adjustable or
non-adjustable) between release of the button and the resultant
action of the solenoid. All line-loc/transbrake wiring before and after
the switch must be separate from any other wiring and fully visible.

Computer wiring, sensors, relays, and the like may not be wired to
the solenoid wiring. Two-steps or other rev limiters that are
adjustable by thumbwheel, replaceable chips, and the like may not
be within the driver’s reach and will preferably be located outside
the driver compartment.

Any system that does not fit the above description is prohibited
and must be corrected before the vehicle will be passed through
pre-event technical inspection.
Further, discovery of a delay device, adjustable or non-adjustable, at any time following pre-event technical inspection will be grounds for immediate disqualification from the event, loss of all NHRA sanctioned sport compact points for the season, and suspension from all NHRA sanctioned racing for remainder of season. Additional penalties may be imposed at the discretion of NHRA. (See 9:1 COMPUTER, 9:2 DATA
RECORDERS.) 94

 

Interstate offers 2AWG in red and black insulation as well as crimp terminals with varying sizes of ID's for different bolt sizes.

I wasn't sure what to use for a distribution block, so I used a Rockford Fosgate RFD4 to split the 12VDC+ to the fuse box and starter. If you use a Rockford Fosgate RFDB1, you can tie the alternator directly into the battery post and have the other end go to the fuse box and starter.