Honda Accord (1990 - 2002) Includes 1997 - 1999 Acura CL

Changing CV boot

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Old Feb 19, 2003 | 01:05 PM
  #1  
fe519's Avatar
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From: sAN fRANCISCO, CA, USA
Default Changing CV boot

Hey guys... this is kinda a newbie question. I need to change my cv boot cause its ripped and grease is all over the bottom of the car. Can someone pleeeease give me an idea or step by step instructions on how to change it? What do you need to take out? I want to do this myself so the next time I know how to do it. Thanks for the tips.
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Old Feb 20, 2003 | 04:26 AM
  #2  
m0t0rhead's Avatar
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From: SouthWest,, Florida, USA
Default Re: Changing CV boot (fe519)

Hey guys... this is kinda a newbie question. I need to change my cv boot cause its ripped and grease is all over the bottom of the car. Can someone pleeeease give me an idea or step by step instructions on how to change it? What do you need to take out? I want to do this myself so the next time I know how to do it. Thanks for the tips.
I have the same problem! LOL when I was changing my oil last week i noticed my driver's side boot was broken and I had grease all over the place. I would be interested in hearing the procedure too...
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Old Feb 20, 2003 | 07:52 AM
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Default Re: Changing CV boot (Escobar)

Maybe it would be easier just to replace the whole transaxle, instead of just the cv boots. I think remanf. one would cost about 69 dollars each.
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Old Feb 20, 2003 | 08:33 AM
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Default Re: Changing CV boot (James)

Nope. they are like $55 at NAPA and autozone will match that.

If you do go for the boot replacement kits, they'll cost considerably less in parts (about $15 I believe if you can find them). But if you don't clamp the boots to the shaft correctly/tightly, they'll just slip back off. Plus, replacing the boot will take more labor than popping out the old shaft and putting a new one back in.

Unless of course the driver's side shaft is STUCK in the intermediate shaft. Then you'll be better off rebuilding the shaft b/c that joint probably isn't coming loose.

So I suggest locating both a boot replacement kit and a complete shaft. Then first try to pull out the entire driver's side shaft from the intermediate shaft (behind the oil pan). If that doesn't come out with the use of the prybar and some body weight behind it, then leave it in there and just do the boot replacement.
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Old Feb 20, 2003 | 09:47 AM
  #5  
93acclude's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2002
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Default Re: Changing CV boot (fe519)

Hey guys... this is kinda a newbie question. I need to change my cv boot cause its ripped and grease is all over the bottom of the car. Can someone pleeeease give me an idea or step by step instructions on how to change it? What do you need to take out? I want to do this myself so the next time I know how to do it. Thanks for the tips.
Replacing the axle is probably a better idea than replacing the boot. When the boot rips open there is a potential for dirt and other materials to get in the joint itself. The tolerances in the joint are so tight that even one grain of sand in there can cause serious damage to the bearings theat make up the joint.

Replacing the axle is also less labor intensive and easier for the less mechanically inclined.
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Old Feb 20, 2003 | 06:33 PM
  #6  
JdmAcclude's Avatar
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From: San Antonio, Texas, U.S.A
Default Re: Changing CV boot (fe519)

after buying the new axleshaft assemblies...this is what you do.
1. lift front end of car, remove wheels.
2. remove the large center nut (on the rotor) that holds the axle.
3. behind and to the bottom of the rotor, there is a nut on a bolt facing down...remove the locking pin and remove nut.
4. now the fun part... take a hammer and tap the center of the rotor at the axle.
the axle will slide out of the rotor.
5. then follow the axle to find the other end, which connects to the tranny.
6. take a flat head screw driver and hammer...stick the flat head between tranny and base of the axle and tap the screw driver. this should dislodge the axle from the tranny. and remove it.
7. get the new axle..slide base end into the tranny making sure the grooves line up
8. slide other end back into the rotor.
9. reapply the nut on bottom (don't forget the locking pin) and large center nut tap a dent into the center nut lip. (there is an existing dent..you'll see...keeps the nut from loosening) thats it...
email me if any questions.
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